• Elena Velez offers a striped-back corset for spring / summer 2023 at New York Fashion Week. Photo: Elena Velez
    Elena Velez offers a striped-back corset for spring / summer 2023 at New York Fashion Week. Photo: Elena Velez
  • Khaite serves satin as an oversized blazer. Photo: Khaite
    Khaite serves satin as an oversized blazer. Photo: Khaite
  • Bright neon gloves at the Tommy Hilfiger show. AP
    Bright neon gloves at the Tommy Hilfiger show. AP
  • A dash of luxurious satin at Jason Wu. Reuters
    A dash of luxurious satin at Jason Wu. Reuters
  • Bright neons at Fendi. AP
    Bright neons at Fendi. AP
  • Y2K-inspired cut-outs at the Victor Glemaud show. AP
    Y2K-inspired cut-outs at the Victor Glemaud show. AP
  • Acid yellow at the Proenza Schouler show. AP
    Acid yellow at the Proenza Schouler show. AP

New York Fashion Week 2023 trends so far


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The New York Fashion Week shows for spring/summer 2023 are well under way in Manhattan, with day four of the event unfolding.

There have been plenty of highlights and drama already, from Fendi celebrating the 25th anniversary of its Baguette bag, to Kim and Khloe Kardashian, and Kate Moss, all sitting front row, plus rain pouring down on the open-air Tommy Hilfiger event, drenching the crowd and models alike.

While it is a little early to start listing definitive trends, there are a few front runners worth noting.

With the rest of the week still to go, followed by London, Milan and Paris next, there's plenty more to come, but here's what's hot on the runways so far.

Bright neons

Shocking pink and yellow on the Prabal Gurung spring/summer 2023 runway at New York Fashion Week. AP
Shocking pink and yellow on the Prabal Gurung spring/summer 2023 runway at New York Fashion Week. AP

A continuation of post-pandemic optimism, bright neons are already making a strong showing in New York.

Seen as acid yellow and neon green at Fendi's special winter 2022 capsule collection, shocking pink at Prabal Gurung, and bright yellow at Proenza Schouler and Tommy Hilfiger, this looks like a trend that's here to stay.

Y2K vibes

A Y2K look at Eckhaus Latta for spring/summer 2023. Photo: Eckhaus Latta
A Y2K look at Eckhaus Latta for spring/summer 2023. Photo: Eckhaus Latta

Brands are looking to the sunny side of the street, harking back to the past and simpler days. In New York, this is materialising as a tendency to look back to the year 2000, with cut-out panels, such as at Victor Glemaud and Dion Lee, belly-baring crop tops (Prabal Gurung and Eckhaus Latta) and even tie-dye.

Rather than crude and hippy-ish, this is now elegant and refined, such as Japanese shibori, as seen at Altuzarra and Ulla Johnson.

A touch of luxe

A rainbow satin dress at Marni for spring/summer 2023. Photo: Marni
A rainbow satin dress at Marni for spring/summer 2023. Photo: Marni

Glossy satin seems to be having a moment on the New York runways, presumably to bring a dash of luxury to everyday life. Fendi sent out a silky jumpsuit, and Anonlychild offered satin shirts, while Khaite presented satin blazers and puff ball skirts.

Over at Marni, meanwhile, this luxurious fabric was cut into a rainbow dress with long, draped sleeves.

Underwear as outerwear

A sequinned corset top at Fendi. AFP
A sequinned corset top at Fendi. AFP

Another nod to the past is the resurgence of underwear as outwear. First seen in the 1990s courtesy of Jean Paul Gaultier and one Madonna, it is now here again.

Structured and heavily boned, this is more corseting than clingy slip dresses, offering a tight-laced alternative to tops.

At Prabal Gurung, this arrived as a cropped short, while Fendi offered one version in glittering sequins. Elsewhere, Elena Velez sent out stripped-back, almost Victorian-era corsets.

Celebrities at New York Fashion Week — in pictures

  • From left, LaLa Anthony, Kim Kardashian, Sarah Jessica Parker and Naomi Watts at a Fendi event at Hammerstein Ballroom, New York, on September 9. Getty Images
    From left, LaLa Anthony, Kim Kardashian, Sarah Jessica Parker and Naomi Watts at a Fendi event at Hammerstein Ballroom, New York, on September 9. Getty Images
  • Grace Jones attends Fendi's event, which marked 25 years of the Baguette bag. Getty Images
    Grace Jones attends Fendi's event, which marked 25 years of the Baguette bag. Getty Images
  • Kate Moss attends Fendi's presentation. Getty Images
    Kate Moss attends Fendi's presentation. Getty Images
  • Pat Cleveland attends the Naeem Khan fashion show at Sony Hall. Getty Images
    Pat Cleveland attends the Naeem Khan fashion show at Sony Hall. Getty Images
  • Harnaaz Sandhu attends the Naeem Khan fashion show. Getty Images
    Harnaaz Sandhu attends the Naeem Khan fashion show. Getty Images
  • Karlie Kloss attends the Proenza Schouler fashion show.
    Karlie Kloss attends the Proenza Schouler fashion show.
  • Irina Shayk attends the Revolve Gallery NYFW Presentation at Hudson Yards. Getty Images
    Irina Shayk attends the Revolve Gallery NYFW Presentation at Hudson Yards. Getty Images
  • American actress Alicia Silverstone at the Christian Siriano show. AP
    American actress Alicia Silverstone at the Christian Siriano show. AP
  • Janet Jackson, second from right, at designer Christian Siriano's show. AP
    Janet Jackson, second from right, at designer Christian Siriano's show. AP
  • Coco Rocha arrives for Harper’s Bazaar Global Icons Portfolio and Bloomingdale’s 150th Anniversary in New York. AFP
    Coco Rocha arrives for Harper’s Bazaar Global Icons Portfolio and Bloomingdale’s 150th Anniversary in New York. AFP
Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

Company Profile

Company name: Yeepeey

Started: Soft launch in November, 2020

Founders: Sagar Chandiramani, Jatin Sharma and Monish Chandiramani

Based: Dubai

Industry: E-grocery

Initial investment: $150,000

Future plan: Raise $1.5m and enter Saudi Arabia next year

At a glance

Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.

 

Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year

 

Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month

 

Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30 

 

Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse

 

Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth

 

Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances

Meydan racecard:

6.30pm: Al Maktoum Challenge Round 2 (PA) Group 1 | US$75,000 (Dirt) | 2,200 metres

7.05pm: UAE 1000 Guineas (TB) Listed | $250,000 (D) 1,600m

7.40pm: Meydan Classic Trial (TB) Conditions $100,000 (Turf) 1,400m

8.15pm: Al Shindagha Sprint (TB) Group 3 $200,000 (D) 1,200m

8.50pm: Handicap (TB) $175,000 (D) 1,600m

9.25pm: Handicap (TB) $175,000 (T) | 2,000m

10pm: Handicap (TB) $135,000 (T) 1,600m

The Africa Institute 101

Housed on the same site as the original Africa Hall, which first hosted an Arab-African Symposium in 1976, the newly renovated building will be home to a think tank and postgraduate studies hub (it will offer master’s and PhD programmes). The centre will focus on both the historical and contemporary links between Africa and the Gulf, and will serve as a meeting place for conferences, symposia, lectures, film screenings, plays, musical performances and more. In fact, today it is hosting a symposium – 5-plus-1: Rethinking Abstraction that will look at the six decades of Frank Bowling’s career, as well as those of his contemporaries that invested social, cultural and personal meaning into abstraction. 

Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

Short-term let permits explained

Homeowners and tenants are allowed to list their properties for rental by registering through the Dubai Tourism website to obtain a permit.

Tenants also require a letter of no objection from their landlord before being allowed to list the property.

There is a cost of Dh1,590 before starting the process, with an additional licence fee of Dh300 per bedroom being rented in your home for the duration of the rental, which ranges from three months to a year.

Anyone hoping to list a property for rental must also provide a copy of their title deeds and Ejari, as well as their Emirates ID.

Labour dispute

The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.


- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law 

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Updated: October 13, 2022, 11:21 AM