It is not every day that you get on a plane almost entirely filled with models, make-up artists and hair stylists, yet this is apparently the order of play when Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana take their famously lavish Alta Moda and Alta Sartoria shows to Saudi Arabia's AlUla.
The Italian design duo's answer to haute couture, Alta Moda (for women) and Alta Sartorial (for men) is the ultimate outpouring of their craft, skill and emotion, into handmade, one-of-a-kind looks.
Invited by the Royal Commission for AlUla to take part in the Tantora Festival, the couture show, titled the Ikmah Fashion Fashion Show, presented 58 looks from the Dolce & Gabbana archives, brought to the kingdom from Italy, along with a full atelier of tailors and seamstresses to tend to private fittings for clients in the following days.
As the sunset cast an orange glow over the surrounding sandstone cliffs of Jabil Ikmah, a Unesco World Heritage site famous for its ancient carvings, the show opened with a white gown of diaphanous silk, hand painted with golden rococo swirls over a huge, swishing tulle skirt. Light as air, yet with a train trailing three metres behind, it set the tone for a celebration of an extraordinary world, where a single look takes months to create and price tags are rumoured to run into six figures.
In a shift for the house, the show was not a traditional Alta Moda affair, where new pieces are created especially for the occasion. Instead, as the first ever show of its kind in the kingdom, this was presented as a journey through the astonishing imagination of the designers and an introduction into the remarkable skills of its atelier.
Speaking ahead of the show, Dominico Dolce explained: “We've been working with the Royal Commision For AlUla for a few months, trying to make the most of this collaboration. Participating at the Tantora festival with a fashion show seemed the best way to do it, and the one that best suits us.”
Also on the runway was a huge gown with full skirts, hand painted with violet blossoms, followed by a fringed cape in dense blood red sequins, dotted with pink flowers. Elsewhere, an ethereal column dress, its bodice covered in fragile feathers entirely handpainted in gold, seemed to float in the spotlights.
Men wore gossamer silk tunic tops over loosely tapered trousers, some with hand embroidered foliage trailing down the side of the legs, or trousers seemingly made of tiny, fabric mosaic tiles. Light, elegant shirt and trousers in glossy pink and olive green followed, the last finished with a great silken tassle at the neck. Other men’s looks included a heavy calf-length coat, finished with gold frogging embroidery, echoed in a similarly cut coat made of chevroned beadwork in tones of blue. This was matched with trousers constructed from diagonals of fabric, pieced together with absolute precision.
For women, there was a series of Renaissance-inspired looks that included a lattice of beadwork fashioned into a face veil, a square necked full-skirted dress of beaded silver and a heavy cape, constructed to cocoon the body and paired with an intricate gold headpiece. Despite the cold of the AlUla winter, the overall effect was enchanting, with the elaborate hand work of the looks and headpieces glinting in the lights.
That pieces such as these had never been show on models in public in the Kingdom before, was clearly something the designers were mindful of.
“We intend to do it with respect, passion and a desire to work and learn. We are creative, everything for us is a source of inspiration and research. Saudi Arabia is a wonderful country and we are looking forward to discovering and visiting it,” Dolce said.
Gabbana seconded this view. “Saudi Arabia is an amazing place, rich in history, traditions, culture and wonderful landscapes.
“For us, every project is a challenge we always learn something new and interesting from. We are designers, we design clothes, it is what we know, and being able to do it for all women and men respecting their customs and cultural traditions can only make us happy.”
After the show, Phillip Jones, chief management and marketing officer for the Royal Commission for AlUla seemed delighted that all the hard work had come to fruition.
“Our first fashion show in AlUla was the perfect combination of exquisite elegance and nature,“ he said. In bringing Dolce & Gabbana’s hand-made creations to AlUla, the region's heritage as a centre of culture was reiterated and updated. "AlUla is a cradle of creativity with artistic endeavour stretching back thousands of years – we are now once again a place to welcome and inspire all areas of arts,” said Jones.
With this groundbreaking show, Dolce & Gabbana has achieved something that just a few years ago would have been unthinkable – bringing its distinct, inimitable sense of decadence to the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia. Presented on models all flown in from Italy, the clothes on display were elegant, sophisticated and mindful of the country's sensibilities. While no doubt complex and demanding to achieve, Dolce and Gabbana have shown – once again – why they are at the very top of their game.
MATCH INFO
Qalandars 109-3 (10ovs)
Salt 30, Malan 24, Trego 23, Jayasuriya 2-14
Bangla Tigers (9.4ovs)
Fletcher 52, Rossouw 31
Bangla Tigers win by six wickets
Essentials
The flights
Whether you trek after mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Uganda or the Congo, the most convenient international airport is in Rwanda’s capital city, Kigali. There are direct flights from Dubai a couple of days a week with RwandAir. Otherwise, an indirect route is available via Nairobi with Kenya Airways. Flydubai flies to Kinshasa in the Democratic Republic of Congo, via Entebbe in Uganda. Expect to pay from US$350 (Dh1,286) return, including taxes.
The tours
Superb ape-watching tours that take in all three gorilla countries mentioned above are run by Natural World Safaris. In September, the company will be operating a unique Ugandan ape safari guided by well-known primatologist Ben Garrod.
In the Democratic Republic of Congo, local operator Kivu Travel can organise pretty much any kind of safari throughout the Virunga National Park and elsewhere in eastern Congo.
How to watch Ireland v Pakistan in UAE
When: The one-off Test starts on Friday, May 11
What time: Each day’s play is scheduled to start at 2pm UAE time.
TV: The match will be broadcast on OSN Sports Cricket HD. Subscribers to the channel can also stream the action live on OSN Play.
THE BIO
Born: Mukalla, Yemen, 1979
Education: UAE University, Al Ain
Family: Married with two daughters: Asayel, 7, and Sara, 6
Favourite piece of music: Horse Dance by Naseer Shamma
Favourite book: Science and geology
Favourite place to travel to: Washington DC
Best advice you’ve ever been given: If you have a dream, you have to believe it, then you will see it.
RESULT
Bayer Leverkusen 2 Bayern Munich 4
Leverkusen: Alario (9'), Wirtz (89')
Bayern: Coman (27'), Goretzka (42'), Gnabry (45'), Lewandowski (66')
AIDA%20RETURNS
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The biog
Hometown: Birchgrove, Sydney Australia
Age: 59
Favourite TV series: Outlander Netflix series
Favourite place in the UAE: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque / desert / Louvre Abu Dhabi
Favourite book: Father of our Nation: Collected Quotes of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan
Thing you will miss most about the UAE: My friends and family, Formula 1, having Friday's off, desert adventures, and Arabic culture and people
Mohammed bin Zayed Majlis
The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre turbo
Power: 181hp
Torque: 230Nm
Transmission: 6-speed automatic
Starting price: Dh79,000
On sale: Now
Play-off fixtures
Two-legged ties to be played November 9-11 and November 12-14
- Northern Ireland v Switzerland
- Croatia v Greece
- Denmark v Ireland
- Sweden v Italy
Company%20Profile
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ECompany%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Astra%20Tech%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EStarted%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EMarch%202022%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EBased%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EDubai%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFounder%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EAbdallah%20Abu%20Sheikh%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EIndustry%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20technology%20investment%20and%20development%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EFunding%20size%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20%24500m%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
What drives subscription retailing?
Once the domain of newspaper home deliveries, subscription model retailing has combined with e-commerce to permeate myriad products and services.
The concept has grown tremendously around the world and is forecast to thrive further, according to UnivDatos Market Insights’ report on recent and predicted trends in the sector.
The global subscription e-commerce market was valued at $13.2 billion (Dh48.5bn) in 2018. It is forecast to touch $478.2bn in 2025, and include the entertainment, fitness, food, cosmetics, baby care and fashion sectors.
The report says subscription-based services currently constitute “a small trend within e-commerce”. The US hosts almost 70 per cent of recurring plan firms, including leaders Dollar Shave Club, Hello Fresh and Netflix. Walmart and Sephora are among longer established retailers entering the space.
UnivDatos cites younger and affluent urbanites as prime subscription targets, with women currently the largest share of end-users.
That’s expected to remain unchanged until 2025, when women will represent a $246.6bn market share, owing to increasing numbers of start-ups targeting women.
Personal care and beauty occupy the largest chunk of the worldwide subscription e-commerce market, with changing lifestyles, work schedules, customisation and convenience among the chief future drivers.
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(BMG)
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Director: Tom Tykwer
Starring: Tala Al Deen, Nicolette Krebitz, Lars Eidinger
Rating: 3/5
The National Archives, Abu Dhabi
Founded over 50 years ago, the National Archives collects valuable historical material relating to the UAE, and is the oldest and richest archive relating to the Arabian Gulf.
Much of the material can be viewed on line at the Arabian Gulf Digital Archive - https://www.agda.ae/en
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
The Laughing Apple
Yusuf/Cat Stevens
(Verve Decca Crossover)
Tamkeen's offering
- Option 1: 70% in year 1, 50% in year 2, 30% in year 3
- Option 2: 50% across three years
- Option 3: 30% across five years
Kanye%20West
%3Cp%3EYe%20%E2%80%94%20the%20rapper%20formerly%20known%20as%20Kanye%20West%20%E2%80%94%20has%20seen%20his%20net%20worth%20fall%20to%20%24400%20million%20in%20recent%20weeks.%20That%E2%80%99s%20a%20precipitous%20drop%20from%20Bloomberg%E2%80%99s%20estimates%20of%20%246.8%20billion%20at%20the%20end%20of%202021.%3Cbr%3EYe%E2%80%99s%20wealth%20plunged%20after%20business%20partners%2C%20including%20Adidas%2C%20severed%20ties%20with%20him%20on%20the%20back%20of%20anti-Semitic%20remarks%20earlier%20this%20year.%3Cbr%3EWest%E2%80%99s%20present%20net%20worth%20derives%20from%20cash%2C%20his%20music%2C%20real%20estate%20and%20a%20stake%20in%20former%20wife%20Kim%20Kardashian%E2%80%99s%20shapewear%20firm%2C%20Skims.%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
The bio
Favourite food: Japanese
Favourite car: Lamborghini
Favourite hobby: Football
Favourite quote: If your dreams don’t scare you, they are not big enough
Favourite country: UAE
Company%C2%A0profile
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How to protect yourself when air quality drops
Install an air filter in your home.
Close your windows and turn on the AC.
Shower or bath after being outside.
Wear a face mask.
Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.
If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.
The Baghdad Clock
Shahad Al Rawi, Oneworld