An increasing number of UAE residents are opting for organic produce over the conventional fare found on supermarket shelves. And as more stores are stocking up on nutritious alternatives, it seems only natural that restaurants turn to the farm to fork approach to appeal to the health conscious food aficionados.
We recently dug into the organic Arabic and Mediterranean Friday brunch buffet at Na3Na3 in the Address Dubai Mall. Buffets are often an invitation to stuff one’s face, so promoting it as an organic spread helps reduce the guilt a little.
My guest and I walked right into the first course of the buffet on entering the restaurant. We decided to make the most of the natural light streaming in from the floor-level windows and chose a table among those packed back-to-back, past the buffet.
On enquiring about the claim of being organic, our server informed us that about 90 per cent of the ingredients are organic, with most of them being locally sourced from farms in the UAE.
Our first round was a mix platter of mezzes and contemporary salads. All the usual suspects are on there: the traditional olive oil drizzled hummus, baba ghanoush, fattoush and tabbouleh. While those sound like safe choices, the chef manages to spruce up the course by adding a contemporary twist and quite the zing with refreshing combinations of greens and fruits in some salads. The beetroot-blood orange salad and beetroot mutabal had me going back for more. There was a generous amount of feta cheese and sun-dried tomatoes in many dishes, perhaps thrown in for good measure. The scallops in kimchi sauce and broccoli pannacotta shooters made for a pretty sight, adding some tangy drama to our regular picks.
We had fewer options to choose from in the mains. While there wasn’t much to reassure diners that the produce was locally sourced or organic in the first section, the protein-laden mains were clearly labelled. I began with the Arabic grilled platter that had a mix of chicken pieces and kebabs, which provided a non-greasy option for those steering away from the organic chicken tagine. My guest picked out the lobster tail that was fresh off the grill, but it was a bit overcooked and salty for her liking. The poached salmon in a vegetable broth instantly became our favourite dish of the day. Couscous and kale chips complemented our picks of meat.
Desserts didn’t leave much of an impression, with no standout dish on offer. The popular Arabic delicacy kunafa lacked the soft and sweet, well-crusted cheese flavour I’ve come to expect from local bakeries. The macaroons, sponge cakes, chocolate mousse and fruits added an international option for those with a sweet tooth.
• The Friday organic brunch at Na3Na3 is priced at Dh295 including soft drinks and juices; Dh380 with premium selected beverages. For reservations, call 04 438 8888
aahmed@thenational.ae

