While a handful of Abu Dhabi’s old-school hotels have resolutely refused to move into the 21st century, that accusation can’t be levelled at Le Royal Méridien. Last year, its commitment to updating its culinary options was confirmed with the opening of the deeply impressive Market Kitchen. And the revamp of its skyscraping revolving restaurant – previously the depressingly staid Al Fanar – has upped the stakes (and, scanning the menu, the steaks) further still.
Now known as Stratos, the old-world “charm” of Al Fanar has been buried under an avalanche of chic, predominantly black décor. Glittering drinks cabinets dominate the central island, while a DJ pumps out house and chart hits from the bar. Every little detail, from artsy black-and-white side dishes to branded leather coasters, has been attended to. But this elegant evolution has come at a price: specifically, to the wallet of its diners. Presumably, Stratos is shorthand for stratospheric bills.
The first clue was my starter choice. Fascinated at the idea of lobster mac and cheese, I went ahead and ordered, despite its eye-watering cost (Dh130, before tax). And in case you’re thinking “yeah, but he did order a lobster dish”, three of the remaining five other starters (yellow-fin tuna, steak tartare and scallops) were all at least as expensive. The comfort-food classic was an enjoyable enough diversion from TV-dinner staple to fine-dining curio and, in fairness, that hefty price tag afforded plentiful morsels of crustacean meat.
My dining partner’s 1916 Parmesan gnocchi (thankfully not made with 99-year-old cheese) was a comparatively reasonable Dh70 for a similar volume of food – both were presented in deceptively deep dishes.
I stayed on a seafood tip with my main: a long, thin pile-up of West Coast Scottish langoustines, with a side of triple-cooked French fries. The presentation was unfussy and the seasoning perfect. At Dh350, however, a certain pizzazz was lacking.
The 170-gram John Stone grass-fed “lady cut” tenderloin (Dh210) was much better value for money, with my dining partner’s medium-well meat arriving with a dark-reddish tint, almost resembling a Lebanese grill. Her side salad of heirloom tomatoes, basil and Aceto Balsamico di Modena was nearly as hearty as the steak. One point of note among the cost qualms: you get one gratis side and sauce with each main, although additional sides ranged from Dh25 to Dh40. The desserts, too, were comparative bargains. The sticky toffee pudding with butterscotch sauce and vanilla bean ice cream (Dh30) was a generous slab of moist sponge that was rich in taste. The Valrhona chocolate Magnum bar (Dh45), meanwhile, didn’t have such a glorious effect on the tongue, but its presentation was the sort of conversation-starter that you’d expect more regularly at Stratos. Essentially a white-chocolate-covered ice cream on a stick, with chocolate blobs designed to make it look like a miniature waistcoat, it was surrounded by mini Oreos balanced on their sides. Sweet dessert innovations aside, if you’re putting a restaurant in the financial firing line of established high-end Abu Dhabi favourites, you better culinarily blow your patrons away. Stratos’s revolving-restaurant concept adds a certain novelty value but the food itself? Well, the hole in the bank balance might linger longer in the memory than some of the food.
A meal for two at Stratos, Le Royal Méridien, Abu Dhabi, costs Dh1,175. For more information, call 800 101 101. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito
aworkman@thenational.ae
