The Mr Fantastic burger at Geek Kitchen.
The Mr Fantastic burger at Geek Kitchen.
The Mr Fantastic burger at Geek Kitchen.
The Mr Fantastic burger at Geek Kitchen.

Restaurant review: Geek Kitchen gives American diner food a super boost


Simon Wilgress-Pipe
  • English
  • Arabic

You might wonder where Geek Kitchen derives its name, but any confusion is dispelled as soon as you walk in the door. This is a super­hero-themed eatery, with related images and paraphernalia of the genre adorning every conceivable space that isn't needed for seating, eating or cooking.

Nestled in among a bundle of restaurants, Geek Kitchen first opened its doors about six months ago and has been steadily building up a customer base since. Manager Richard Lacuesta, a veteran restaurateur in the UAE, and head chef Zandro Billardo say this is the first foray into what they and the owners hope will become a franchise operation. Don't think this is only for the millennials, either – Geek Kitchen is most certainly geared towards anyone who likes high-quality American diner food, regardless of the comic-book surroundings.

What to expect and where to sit

Geek Kitchen, Abu Dhabi
Geek Kitchen, Abu Dhabi

The colourful, artwork-heavy decor channels a relaxed and fun vibe. Casual attire is the order of the day, and the seating, while unfussy, is comfortable. There are a couple of booths – this is essentially a diner, after all – but there's no escape from the superhero imagery, and there are boxed figurines stacked up like small, shiny bricks around the counters and shelving. The staff are friendly and attentive, all in their matching Geek Kitchen T-shirts, and one of the two food preparation areas occupies the centre portion of the floor – all very nice for those who like to see their food being created and enjoy the bustle of a kitchen environment.

The menu

The breakfast menu includes a selection of standards such as pancakes, waffles and crepes (between Dh25 and Dh30) with accompaniments such as peanut butter, berry compote and, naturally, maple syrup. Oatmeal with caramelised banana, peanut butter and honey (Dh29) and a smoothie bowl comprising seasonal fruits and toasted coconut shards (Dh35) are also available.

A breakfast selection, including New Avengers mixed berries pancakes and Superman's face on a cup of coffee
A breakfast selection, including New Avengers mixed berries pancakes and Superman's face on a cup of coffee

These sit alongside breakfast-on-toast savouries that include omelettes (Dh34), and sides such as hash browns (Dh10), chips (Dh12) and corned beef hash (Dh12). Smoked salmon and egg (Dh29) is lurking in there, too. The starters (Dh15 to Dh21) are standard fare – the likes of onion rings, diablo chicken wings and jalapeno poppers – while the burgers and sandwiches (Dh35 to Dh45) are out in force. Beef patties are available with a variety of cheeses, sauces and pickles – and all in artisan bread and buns baked from scratch on the premises, which is not something you come across often.

If you're after something lighter, opt for one of the fresh salads (Dh46 to Dh49). The beet-sprout concoction is a particular delight, combining bean sprouts and beetroot (no surprise there) with pomegranate seeds, sugar snap peas, quinoa, beetroot hummus, tahini and avocado, all slathered in a lemon vinaigrette. You won't want to miss the desserts, either – the freshly prepared cheesecake (Dh19) and chocolate brownie (Dh12) are particularly impressive.

It's worth mentioning more of the restaurant's cute touches here, which include coffees adorned with superhero faces in powdered chocolate. You can also order made-to-measure cakes, themed or otherwise. Also, you won't find any dish that doesn't have a comic-­book character name tacked on. Remember those onions rings? Well, they're actually Dr Strange onion rings, and the oatmeal and smoothie bowls are part of the Jedi Master breakfast range. 

Standout dishes

Two plates will leave anyone with a penchant for slow-cooked meat very happy indeed. The beef brisket (Dh42) and spinach-and-cheese-stuffed chicken breast (Dh37) are worthy of inclusion on a menu at any fine-dining establishment. Both plates are succulent and perfectly balanced in flavour, with the brisket covered in a delightful rich sauce (again, created from scratch). Chef Billardo has been classically trained in the European tradition and these dishes reveal that in spades. Many establishments talk about freshness, but these two plates show how important this is to what Geek Kitchen has to offer.

The chef

Chef Billardo sources all the ingredients himself from markets in Zayed Port and Mushrif Mall. He honed his skills under French and Italian cooks, and brings those standards of quality to the menu here. Including the head man himself, eight cooks work at Geek Kitchen, and Billardo ensures they prepare the dishes to exacting standards. 

Contact information

Geek Kitchen is on Al Muroor Road. It opens from 7.30am to 11pm, and tables can be booked by calling 02 449 3330.

This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant

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Fixtures

Friday Leganes v Alaves, 10.15pm; Valencia v Las Palmas, 12.15am

Saturday Celta Vigo v Real Sociedad, 8.15pm; Girona v Atletico Madrid, 10.15pm; Sevilla v Espanyol, 12.15am

Sunday Athletic Bilbao v Getafe, 8.15am; Barcelona v Real Betis, 10.15pm; Deportivo v Real Madrid, 12.15am

Monday Levante v Villarreal, 10.15pm; Malaga v Eibar, midnight

The burning issue

The internal combustion engine is facing a watershed moment – major manufacturer Volvo is to stop producing petroleum-powered vehicles by 2021 and countries in Europe, including the UK, have vowed to ban their sale before 2040. The National takes a look at the story of one of the most successful technologies of the last 100 years and how it has impacted life in the UAE.

Read part three: the age of the electric vehicle begins

Read part two: how climate change drove the race for an alternative 

Read part one: how cars came to the UAE

While you're here

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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