The location
Sat just past the main entrance of Madinat Jumeirah, quaint French-themed eatery Café Rouge is ideally located to pick up passing trade from strolling tourists and business lunchers alike. But recently ringing in a first anniversary, the kitchen has unveiled aspirations for destination dining with a new menu. Time for fresh appraisal, then.
The atmosphere
Café Rouge is a UK-born chain and a familiar sight on many a British town high street. As such, it offers a slightly twee, tongue-in-cheek interpretation of a friendly geopolitical rival; this is the picture postcard French bistro cliché of brash brass, golden lights and deep red leather seats. But it’s not stuffy – such liberal appropriation by the mainstream breeds an enjoyably relaxed, decidedly mid-range feel.
The food
Coming out in favour of Café Rouge is risky business – French foodies object vehemently to the very idea of a British-born “French” restaurant, whether they have ever eaten there or not. This first venture outside of UK soil could prove controversial; indeed, the manager himself noted French visitors invariably complain about the Anglicised palette.
With this disclaimer in place, Café Rouge adequately meets all expectations that you could hold (of a mid-priced, British-born, French-themed restaurant in a Middle Eastern tourist attraction...) – and even surpasses them.
The starting soups were ideal winter warmers, while the melted camembert ticked the right calorific boxes. The main course lamb chops were succulent (and authentically fatty), served with crunchy rustic greens, while the vegetable gratin was hearty and wholesome. Everything had a home-cooked-ish charm, while the starting sides – the “Rouge olives” with cornichons and capers, the bread and paté nibbles – were a nice touch, too.
Who’s it best for
Not your French foodie friend,perhaps, but expat Brits will find a familiar brand performing competently in a faraway land.
The verdict
Café Rouge confidently fills a gaping hole between the Madinat’s casual bar bites and high-end dining extremes. There’s talk the brand will be expanding in the UAE, which can only help enhance the limited European options currently on offer. Er, Vive l’Angleterre?
The National was a guest of the venue.
Café Rouge is open at Madinat Jumeirah, Dubai, daily 8am-midnight (reservations 04 554 6438).
