Deconstruction was a recurring theme during our preview of Marina Social’s Dubai Restaurant Week set menu. That was immediately apparent when my starter, hand-chopped beef tartare, was initially delivered beautifully presented, with the central meat surrounded by fronds of seasoning. The pristine presentation was short-lived, however, after our waiter announced that he would be “mixing” the dish for us at the table, swirling in said seasonings and then mashing in the egg-yolk “jam” and balsamic-and-truffle dressing until the whole mess was (deliberately) all over the plate. Gladly, once in your mouth, it was infinitely more refined. My dining partner’s wood-fired garlic flatbread demanded an opposing approach. The simple loaf came with cloves of roasted garlic for de-skinning and spreading across the bread, alongside dipping pots of caponata and pistachio/feta. It was almost too simple, but that didn’t stop us from devouring the lot.
The BBQ veal short rib came with a small Yorkshire pudding, a pot of charred sweetcorn and a side of jus served in a playful, miniature cow-shaped gravy boat. This pull-apart-tender veal was my favourite bite of the night. The cod loin wasn’t quite as noteworthy, despite being balanced serenely amid a concoction including mussel vinaigrette and spindly samphire.
One of our desserts, the Greek yogurt mousse, was even less tastebud-stimulating, but the other, the blackberry Eton mess, saved the day. Returning to that deconstructive theme: I had to smash the cylindrical slice’s smooth outer meringue with a fork to get to the gooey goodness within, bringing the meal to a neat cyclical conclusion.
Marina Social at InterContinental Dubai Marina is one of 15 restaurants serving special menus for just Dh199 per person during Dubai Restaurant Week. There are two seatings nightly — 7.30pm and 9.30pm — through March 4. To book, visit www.roundmenu.com/dubai/restaurant-week
aworkman@thenational.ae
