Brunch del Sabato at: Café Milano, Four Seasons Abu Dhabi

The smoky, grilled lamb rack is one of the main courses on offer at Café Milano's Brunch del Sabato. Photo by Rob Garratt

The location

The classy Italian eatery Café Milano sits off the lower lobby of Al Maryah Island’s Four Seasons Abu Dhabi, offering a prime waterside vista gazing out across bright blue waters to the city centre. On our early April visit, the restaurant opened refreshingly out into the open air, but the intimate venue can be shuttered up for the sweatier season.

The atmosphere

An established fine-dining venue in Washington DC, Abu Dhabi’s Café Milano is only the second outpost globally, and this take channels a subtle mix of modern and tradition. The bright, airy, open dining space feels chic without ostentation, yet the white table cloths and sharp-dressed waiting staff hark bark to bygone dining days.

At the venue’s brand new “brunch del Sabato” (that’s Saturday brunch) the lazy tempo is set first with a mix of jazz and Italian show-tunes, before dialling up to poppier electronic fare as the afternoon stretches on. With a mix of couples and large groups, there’s a lightly buzzing vibe, but the volume never exceeds a murmuring undercurrent. The fact there’s a (rather reasonable) children’s price on menu speaks volumes.

The food

It’s all Italian, and thankfully, it’s all served direct to your table, arriving in a series of themed courses. The bar is set decidedly high with an epic opening cold antipasti course – partly presented on a three-tiered sandwich tray, afternoon tea-style – which included excellent buffalo mozzarella, a sharp tuna salad served in a tin can, some still-on-trend quinoa served with a cute beetroot macaroon (nice touch) and a large stack of breakfast pastries no person in their right mind would begin a brunch with.

The hot antipasti were a little more hit and miss – full marks go to the roasted scallops, the poached egg in parmigiana sauce and the eggplant timbale, yet the soupy, stewed cuttlefish and the potato omelette underwhelmed.

Prepared live at the table, the pasta course met all reasonable expectations, with an excellent veal cannelloni and a homely pici pasta dish – a Sicilian speciality served in a potent tomato sauce.

By now, of course, any appetite was a valuable commodity, but I valiantly tried a little of each of the three mains on offer – of which most diners would choose just one – all for you, dear readers. My pick would be the soft sea bass fillet, served in a subtle saffron sauce. Also on the menu is a chunky, smokey grilled lamb rack, and some passable roast chicken in a gloopy lemon sauce.

Delivered from a passing trolley, the homemade desserts were worth far more stomach-space than I was able to grand them, with the tiramisu an obligatory, inevitable highlight.

Who is it for?

Foodies – the culinary offerings here are several cuts above most brunches in town. If you’re looking for a party, take your trade elsewhere – this one is for quietly savouring every fork-full.

The verdict

A welcome opportunity to eat top-notch a la carte fare at a leading Italian restaurant, in a lazy – and very competitively priced – brunch format. And the fact it takes place on a Saturday will be music to many serious diners ears.

Bottom line

Saturdays noon-4pm, from Dh190-250 (children Dh60). Café Milano, Four Seasons Abu Dhabi, Al Maryah Island (reservations 02 333 2444 or [e-mail]). www.cafemilano.ae

The National was a guest of the restaurant