Arva Ahmed, centre, with one of her walking food tour groups at Samadi Sweets in Deira. Jaime Puebla / The National
Arva Ahmed, centre, with one of her walking food tour groups at Samadi Sweets in Deira. Jaime Puebla / The National

A voyage of food discovery: Dubai's walking food tours



Deira, with its bright lights, busy streets and jumble of grocery stores, electrical shops, mix and match hypermarkets and countless little cafes, restaurants and hole-in-the-wall joints is, says Arva Ahmed, her "hood". And not only does she know this area inside out - a feat in itself - she can tell you exactly where the best food is to be found.

Ahmed is blessed with a knack of unearthing hidden food gems in old Dubai. She has an ability to make sense of this melee of restaurants (and the countless dishes that they serve) and home in on the items that they do best.

To do this, she says that she relies partly on instinct; a certain feeling telling her to try a place that would need to be properly gussied up before most people give it a second look. But this sort of acumen requires hard work, too. She has invested time and effort trawling the city by both car and foot - eyes peeled, nose quivering - in search of the next spot to pique her taste buds. "I get excited when there is an element of discovery about eating and that's why I've always focused more on smaller, lesser-known restaurants," she says. "I love the idea that it gives me something new to share with the world. So many of these places look like such shacks. You have no expectations of them when you walk in and then suddenly they surprise you with something you wouldn't have tried anywhere else."

In 2010, Ahmed began sharing her discoveries via her blog I Live in a Frying Pan (tagline: "Sizzling up hole-in-the-wall ethnic eats of old Dubai") and has, quite rightly, come to be known as something of an expert on the subject. She also writes Food Obsession each Thursday, in this Arts&Life section. Combine this passion with a keen business mind (she has an MBA in Marketing and Operations and set up a catering service from her dormitory room while at university) and perhaps it's not surprising that in November 2011 she struck upon the idea of launching her very own food tours. Frying Pan Food Adventures is set to open to the public in the next few weeks, with a view to exploring the eateries that Ahmed knows so well, yet remain unexplored territory for many, including long-term residents.

"This all started because I wanted to find out how I could connect with the city and help people to understand that there is a whole other side of Dubai, a part that feels authentic," she explains. "Dubai began as a trading port; what happens when you have trade is that you have so many different cultures coming in and trying to make the place their home and that is reflected in the food."

As she set about turning this into a reality, Ahmed says that her goals for the tour began to change."I want people to understand that Dubai can play an important role in maintaining the culinary history of the Middle East," she says. "The city is doing a fabulous job of preserving regional specialities and giving people the opportunity to taste dishes from Iraq, from Lebanon, from Syria, that they wouldn't otherwise be able to try."

When she eats food from a certain country, Ahmed says that, however briefly, she wants to feel like she is part of that culture. It is this ethos that in part informs her tours. "During that time, we won't just be eating, we'll be talking about the history and the culture of the food and its country, discussing the politics or sharing interesting facts. It's important to me that I provide a story to go with the food," she says.

Experiencing the tour first-hand

It's 6.30pm on a Thursday evening and Muraggabat Street in Deira is buzzing. The weekend is here and there's a sense of anticipation in the air - or perhaps that's just among the group that has gathered to take part in the Arabian Foodie Pilgrimage led by Arva Ahmed.

Knowing her crowd, Ahmed quickly seats all eight of us (her ideal number for the tour, as it happens) at the first restaurant. After a brief chat with the manager, she's off, introducing herself and the tours in effervescent, energetic fashion and handing over a goody bag filled with essentials - water bottle, map and wet wipes included.

We kick off the evening by trying fluffy and light-as-you-like falafel mahshi and hummus, before the first of two revelations from this Palestinian restaurant. First up, musakhan, a sort of open chicken pie featuring moist roasted meat and soft, slowly sweated, sumac-tinged onions arranged on top of thin layers of bread that quickly soak up the sour-sweet juices. After that, we move on to something sweet. "You can never just talk about kunafa, you have to eat kunafa," says Ahmed - and so we do. Served extra hot, as requested, it is perhaps the best version of this dessert I have ever had: sour, salty, creamy and sweet and topped with crunchy ground semolina.

Minutes later and we're on the move, this time in the direction of a baklava shop to sample sweets. What's key here is portion sizes; there are eight of us, yet Ahmed only orders one of each dish, meaning that we nibble and taste, but don't fill ourselves up, which is a very good thing considering what lies ahead.

It would be a shame to spoil the surprise for those who take the tour in the future, but let's just say that the rest of this eating odyssey includes freshly baked manakeesh spiked with sumac and sujak from a Lebanese fast-food place on Al Rigga road, as well as a brief sojourn in a Yemeni restaurant where we removed our shoes, sat on the floor in our private carpeted (indoor) tent and ate chicken mazbi and mundi with our hands.

After a brief stop at a spice shop (with Ahmed's tips for seeking out quality saffron thrown in, we ended the evening with an Iranian-inspired feast which featured the much-loved chelo kebab, bowls of tangy fesenjoon and rice laced with barberries (zereshk polo), among other dishes. I left the restaurant replete and relaxed, as I'm sure did the rest of the group. From the online booking process through to the informative text message that I received on the day, Frying Pan tours provided an efficient, personable service. Not only that, while Ahmed knows her subject inside out, she's also charmingly self-deprecating and the best type of teacher: one that feeds you bites of information and then asks questions and ignites conversations. I'm certainly keen to try the other tours that Frying Pan offers. For a taste of Dubai that you might otherwise miss out on, I recommend others do the same.

The tours

Cost - Dh350 per person for the standard tours.

Duration - Three-and-a half to four hours. The tours begin at 6.30pm at a designated spot. Participants can either meet there or catch a specially provided bus at 5.45pm from Mall of the Emirates (return transport provided). Depending on the tour, you will visit four to six restaurants, trying approximately eight dishes.

Little India on a plate

A whistle-stop exploration of Meena Bazaar or Little India, as it's otherwise known. Sample street snacks, watch bread being traditionally prepared, sip cooling lassi and tuck into an uber-version of chicken tikka, if you so wish.

Arabian foodie pilgrimage

An informative jaunt through Deira, taking in Lebanese, Egyptian, Yemeni and Iranian dishes.

Cook up your own tour

The chance for a group to have a tour tailor-made for them, whether it be friends celebrating a birthday or a company on a team-building mission. More themed tours, including a North African food safari, will be added in time.

Be one of the first to take a Frying Pan Food Adventures tour: watch www.fryingpanadventures.com for news of the upcoming launch date, search Facebook and Twitter

German intelligence warnings
  • 2002: "Hezbollah supporters feared becoming a target of security services because of the effects of [9/11] ... discussions on Hezbollah policy moved from mosques into smaller circles in private homes." Supporters in Germany: 800
  • 2013: "Financial and logistical support from Germany for Hezbollah in Lebanon supports the armed struggle against Israel ... Hezbollah supporters in Germany hold back from actions that would gain publicity." Supporters in Germany: 950
  • 2023: "It must be reckoned with that Hezbollah will continue to plan terrorist actions outside the Middle East against Israel or Israeli interests." Supporters in Germany: 1,250 

Source: Federal Office for the Protection of the Constitution

Game Changer

Director: Shankar 

Stars: Ram Charan, Kiara Advani, Anjali, S J Suryah, Jayaram

Rating: 2/5

The specs: 2018 Chevrolet Trailblazer

Price, base / as tested Dh99,000 / Dh132,000

Engine 3.6L V6

Transmission: Six-speed automatic

Power 275hp @ 6,000rpm

Torque 350Nm @ 3,700rpm

Fuel economy combined 12.2L / 100km

No more lice

Defining head lice

Pediculus humanus capitis are tiny wingless insects that feed on blood from the human scalp. The adult head louse is up to 3mm long, has six legs, and is tan to greyish-white in colour. The female lives up to four weeks and, once mature, can lay up to 10 eggs per day. These tiny nits firmly attach to the base of the hair shaft, get incubated by body heat and hatch in eight days or so.

Identifying lice

Lice can be identified by itching or a tickling sensation of something moving within the hair. One can confirm that a person has lice by looking closely through the hair and scalp for nits, nymphs or lice. Head lice are most frequently located behind the ears and near the neckline.

Treating lice at home

Head lice must be treated as soon as they are spotted. Start by checking everyone in the family for them, then follow these steps. Remove and wash all clothing and bedding with hot water. Apply medicine according to the label instructions. If some live lice are still found eight to 12 hours after treatment, but are moving more slowly than before, do not re-treat. Comb dead and remaining live lice out of the hair using a fine-toothed comb.
After the initial treatment, check for, comb and remove nits and lice from hair every two to three days. Soak combs and brushes in hot water for 10 minutes.Vacuum the floor and furniture, particularly where the infested person sat or lay.

Courtesy Dr Vishal Rajmal Mehta, specialist paediatrics, RAK Hospital

THE SPECS

Engine: AMG-enhanced 3.0L inline-6 turbo with EQ Boost and electric auxiliary compressor

Transmission: nine-speed automatic

Power: 429hp

Torque: 520Nm​​​​​​​

Price: Dh360,200 (starting)

The Sand Castle

Director: Matty Brown

Stars: Nadine Labaki, Ziad Bakri, Zain Al Rafeea, Riman Al Rafeea

Rating: 2.5/5

How to protect yourself when air quality drops

Install an air filter in your home.

Close your windows and turn on the AC.

Shower or bath after being outside.

Wear a face mask.

Stay indoors when conditions are particularly poor.

If driving, turn your engine off when stationary.

RESULT

Huddersfield Town 2 Manchester United 1
Huddersfield: Mooy (28'), Depoitre (33')
Manchester United: Rashford (78')

 

Man of the Match: Aaron Mooy (Huddersfield Town)

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%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAuthor%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3ESam%20Ottewill-Soulsby%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPublisher%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EPrinceton%20University%20Press%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPages%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E392%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EAvailable%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EJuly%2011%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: ARDH Collective
Based: Dubai
Founders: Alhaan Ahmed, Alyina Ahmed and Maximo Tettamanzi
Sector: Sustainability
Total funding: Self funded
Number of employees: 4
ESSENTIALS

The flights

Emirates flies direct from Dubai to Rio de Janeiro from Dh7,000 return including taxes. Avianca fliles from Rio to Cusco via Lima from $399 (Dhxx) return including taxes. 

The trip

From US$1,830 per deluxe cabin, twin share, for the one-night Spirit of the Water itinerary and US$4,630 per deluxe cabin for the Peruvian Highlands itinerary, inclusive of meals, and beverages. Surcharges apply for some excursions.

THE SPECS

Engine: 6.75-litre twin-turbocharged V12 petrol engine 

Power: 420kW

Torque: 780Nm

Transmission: 8-speed automatic

Price: From Dh1,350,000

On sale: Available for preorder now

BANGLADESH SQUAD

Mashrafe Mortaza (captain), Tamim Iqbal, Liton Das, Soumya Sarkar, Mushfiqur Rahim (wicketkeeper), Mahmudullah, Shakib Al Hasan (vice captain), Mohammad Mithun, Sabbir Rahaman, Mosaddek Hossain, Mohammad Saifuddin, Mehidy Hasan Miraz, Rubel Hossain, Mustafizur Rahman, Abu Jayed (Reporting by Rohith Nair in Bengaluru Editing by Amlan Chakraborty)