If a Ramadan iftar is judged by the strength of its kitchen rather than the scale of its hotel tents, then the relatively cosy Ariana’s Persian Kitchen makes a strong case this season.
The restaurant has introduced a dedicated iftar menu, running daily and featuring a handful of dishes prepared specifically for the month alongside its established grills and mezze.
The occasion makes for an accessible introduction to one of Dubai’s more polished Iranian restaurants.
First impressions
Located on the ground floor of Atlantis The Royal, the dining room is adorned with pomegranate motifs and rose-toned banquettes that frame marble tables, while warm lighting softens the gold accents around the room.
Friendly staff walk diners through the Ramadan additions before sunset, with dates and water already set in place as the call to prayer approaches. Despite a decent-sized crowd, the atmosphere remains calm, the soundtrack low and little noise drifts in from the hotel lobby. A combination of larger tables and more intimate seating makes it well suited to families or smaller groups.
Breaking fast
After breaking the fast with dates and zesty doogh, a chilled, lightly carbonated yoghurt drink seasoned with dried mint, the first dish is ashe reshteh, created specifically for the Ramadan menu. It is a traditional Iranian herb, bean and noodle soup made with flat wheat noodles known as reshteh.
Prepared with baby spinach, chives, chickpeas, red kidney beans and green lentils, it arrives thick and substantial. The lentils deepen the broth, while chopped herbs bring a grassy sharpness that cuts through the starch of the beans and noodles.
Cold mezze follow in measured portions. Salad shirazi, a finely diced mix of cucumber, tomato and onion dressed with lemon, is sharply seasoned. The silky dip mast o khiar combines yoghurt with dried mint and cucumber.
Kashk-e bademjoon, a warm aubergine dish finished with kashk, a tangy fermented whey yoghurt reduction, comes smooth and lightly smoky, topped with fried onions. It strikes a wonderful balance of acidity and creaminess, sharpening the softened aubergine, which I had in spoonfuls without accompanying Iranian bread.
The vegetarian khoreshteh bamieh, another dish exclusive to the iftar menu, is a classic Persian okra stew arriving in a shallow bowl, the sauce stained deep red with saffron and tomato. The okra is cooked through, but retains slight firmness. Dried shirazi lime, a sun-dried lime used for sour depth, brings a sharp edge that steadies the tomato.
There's also a vegetarian koofteh that substitutes lamb for plant-based Impossible meatball served in the traditional Persian way. The “meat” browns at the edge, and breaks apart easily so maximum sauce can be absorbed.
Joojeh kebab, saffron-marinated grilled chicken, shows char at the edges and colour through the centre. Kabab koobideh, minced lamb pressed along flat skewers and grilled over an open flame, is evenly seasoned and moist. Both are served over buttery saffron rice.
The meal closes with Mamani’s shole zard, another exclusive for the holy month, a saffron rice pudding traditionally prepared for religious occasions and decorated with cinnamon. The rice is soft and the rose water is not overpowering. Coarsely cut pistachio and cinnamon add texture, while the saffron leaves a faint bitterness beneath the sweetness.
The setting
This is a table-service iftar suited to smaller gatherings, in a room that is spacious and reflective, and offers an ambience suitable for the occasion.
How much it costs
Iftar at Ariana’s Persian Kitchen is priced at Dh395 per person and runs daily from 6pm to 8.30pm until March 19. Reservations can be made via Atlantis The Royal on 04 426 2626.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
