One of London’s most famous Chinese restaurants has finally landed in Dubai.
After its first restaurant took the UK dining scene by storm in 1968, the brand now has venues in New York, Miami, Beverly Hills and Las Vegas in the US, as well as an outpost in Riyadh. Its Dubai outpost opened in June, promising to bring its combination of classic dishes served in an elegant setting while embracing the nuances of the region.
The restaurant’s location is an immediate removal from the hustle and bustle of its older London sibling, swapping Knightsbridge for the second floor of a commercial tower in Dubai’s financial district.
Like Alice through the looking glass, you are transported into another universe when walking into Mr Chow – one that’s a lavish space of high ceilings, low lighting and spectacular scenery.
Where to sit and what to expect
There is something charmingly classical about Mr Chow’s aesthetic, with dark walls, dark furniture and minimalist white tablecloths.
In a word, Mr Chow is polished. Whether that’s the silver cutlery or the servers decked out in high-quality tuxedos, it’s a restaurant that brings a touch of 1970s Britain to the modernity of DIFC.
There’s an array of seating options, with tables lining the floor-to-wall windows and a magnificent central bar area. My dining partner and I choose one of the central tables, which has a high-backed sofa seat offering up spectacular views of the cityscape around us.
It’s here that our server, Nick, explains the basics of the menu and we settle down for the dinner awaiting us.
The menu
To start with, we share a serving of chicken satay (Dh92) and glazed prawns with walnuts (Dh164).
Consistent with Mr Chow’s general feel, the two dishes are deliberately simple and classical. With both the chicken and the prawns, the core flavour blends wonderfully with the traditional tastes brought out in the marinade for the chicken and the walnut sauce with the prawns.
They are excellent starters as they set the tone for the quality of the food that’s to come, while also not being too heavy to rule out further dishes.
Ma mignon (Dh297) is our main course of choice, served alongside the Gamblers duck (Dh295) with rice and vegetables (Dh75) on the side. Similar to our starters, they are two very different dishes that we choose to share, but they illustrate what Mr Chow is all about.
A recipe since 1975, the ma mignon is a Mr Chow staple and serves up tender filet mignon with asparagus and a rich gravy. It’s as delicious as it sounds. The Gamblers duck, meanwhile, is essentially a more sophisticated take on the archetypal Chinese takeaway order; crispy duck and pancakes. This, though, is an elevated experience and one that offers beautifully cooked meat – carved at your table on a silver plate – with pancakes, vegetables and plum sauce.
For dessert, we go for the mango ice bowl (Dh95), which is arguably the piece de resistance and a wonderful way to end a fine meal. Its presentation is spectacular, with the ice elegantly surrounding the fruit. It’s also very light and refreshing, meaning you have plenty of room to tuck in despite having dined on the heavier starters and mains. Just make sure you finish your dessert quickly, as it will melt before your eyes.
Save or splurge
A three-course meal at Mr Chow can cost between Dh230 and Dh581. On the high end of the price spectrum lie the vermicelli with lobster (Dh169), fresh live lobster (Dh317) and mango ice bowl (Dh95).
The three most reasonable dishes across starters, mains and desserts are the crab claw (Dh92), mapo tofu (Dh90), and sorbet selection (Dh48).
A chat with the chef
The man behind the dishes at Mr Chow is head chef Zhang Yu Jun. Originally from Jiangsu, China, he has worked with the brand for almost three years before fronting the Dubai project.
He particular enjoys cooking with seafood and beef. “These ingredients allow for endless creativity and refinement,” he says. “You’ll find them featured throughout our menu, from delicate seafood dim sum to our signature meat dishes, always with a focus on freshness, precision, and innovation.”
Chef Zhang describes his cooking style as one that is deeply respectful of the ingredients he works with. “I draw inspiration from traditional Chinese cuisine while incorporating modern touches,” he says. “My goal is always to balance authenticity, artistry and seasonal ingredients.
“For me, cooking is an artistic expression. I believe in respecting the ingredients, embracing seasonality and constantly improving my skills.”
For vegetarian or vegan diners, he recommends the vegetarian squab with lettuce, for meat lovers his top tip is the Beijing chicken with walnuts, and for seafood aficionados, the live lobster gets the nod.
His go-to starter is the satay chicken skewers, while he suggests the restaurant’s selection of steamed seafood dishes all amount to good options for those looking for a healthier plate.
Contact information
Mr Chow is in Precinct Building 3 in the Dubai International Financial Centre. It is open daily from noon to midnight. Reservations can be made by calling 04 834 2013.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
If you go
Flights
Emirates flies from Dubai to Phnom Penh with a stop in Yangon from Dh3,075, and Etihad flies from Abu Dhabi to Phnom Penh with its partner Bangkok Airlines from Dh2,763. These trips take about nine hours each and both include taxes. From there, a road transfer takes at least four hours; airlines including KC Airlines (www.kcairlines.com) offer quick connecting flights from Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville from about $100 (Dh367) return including taxes. Air Asia, Malindo Air and Malaysian Airlines fly direct from Kuala Lumpur to Sihanoukville from $54 each way. Next year, direct flights are due to launch between Bangkok and Sihanoukville, which will cut the journey time by a third.
The stay
Rooms at Alila Villas Koh Russey (www.alilahotels.com/ kohrussey) cost from $385 per night including taxes.
Dubai World Cup factbox
Most wins by a trainer: Godolphin’s Saeed bin Suroor(9)
Most wins by a jockey: Jerry Bailey(4)
Most wins by an owner: Godolphin(9)
Most wins by a horse: Godolphin’s Thunder Snow(2)
Wenger's Arsenal reign in numbers
1,228 - games at the helm, ahead of Sunday's Premier League fixture against West Ham United.
704 - wins to date as Arsenal manager.
3 - Premier League title wins, the last during an unbeaten Invincibles campaign of 2003/04.
1,549 - goals scored in Premier League matches by Wenger's teams.
10 - major trophies won.
473 - Premier League victories.
7 - FA Cup triumphs, with three of those having come the last four seasons.
151 - Premier League losses.
21 - full seasons in charge.
49 - games unbeaten in the Premier League from May 2003 to October 2004.
Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
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