Mediterranean food has long been synonymous with comforting dishes and fresh ingredients brimming with flavour.
At Elaia, which opened in Dubai Marina in May, dishes come from all around the Mediterranean region, featuring classics with a subtle twist to create a delicious blend of familiar and novel flavours.
The setting
Finding the restaurant can be tricky if you are unfamiliar with the Pier 7 entrance, which is right past Dubai Marina Mall. You can hand over your car to the valet at the get-off point on the buzzing roundabout or park in the mall and walk over from level one instead.
From Pier 7, take a second lift up to the fourth floor and, almost instantly, the atmosphere changes to a dimly lit but lively setting. Hit songs from the 2000s play in the background, while Greek mythology-inspired ornaments set the mood.
The restaurant has an expansive view of the twinkling Dubai Marina. As the sun sets over the horizon, the water changes colour and the glimmering buildings melt into the skyline, morphing into something reminiscent of a painting.
In the dining room, an air of intimacy is palpable thanks to the low-hanging chandeliers, plus warm lamps placed on every table.
The vibe
Elaia is Greek for olive tree, an integral element of the Mediterranean region, which is also known for its fresh flavours and sharing-style plates.
“We wanted the menu to reflect the sharing concept because Elaia is a social venue; you come here to share,” says Aleix Garcia, founder of Infini Concepts. “We wanted to create something that was not just a restaurant, but more of a bistro with quality produce and good service,” he says.
Strongly influenced by Greek culture and mythology, the restaurant's interior is replete with large painted murals and golden ornaments.
“We wanted to respect Greek mythology with a bit of creativity and a modern touch,” says Garcia, alluding to the murals hand-painted by Maria Kova, who specialises in abstract art.
The food, meanwhile, represents the Spanish, Italian and Greek people working at the restaurant. “We drew a lot of inspiration from what they actually grew up with,” says head chef Etienne Mieny, 42, who adds that he sources fish, olive oil and a range of other produce straight from the Mediterranean region.
“We just looking to create a homey, family-style environment where people can be themselves and spend time with those they love,” he adds.
The menu
My dining companion and I start our meal with tzatziki (Dh38), a cold yogurt-based dip that comes with cucumber, dill and a drizzle of Italian olive oil, plus warm pita bread on the side. It's well-balanced but, having tried tzatziki in the Aegean, I found this version lacking the anticipated flavour punch of garlic.
Fortunately, the prawns saganaki (Dh62) starter meets expectations. The prawns are laid in a tangy, herby tomato sauce with cheese cubes, and are rich in flavour. If, like me, your spice tolerance is high, you might need to add more chilli to this dish.
The Italian-inspired Sorrento salad (Dh78) takes the form of a ball of burrata served on a bed of marinated zucchini ribbons drizzled in balsamic vinegar and topped with mustard seeds. The smooth cheese is cut open and garnished with salt and pepper before being served with basil leaves for a melt-in-the-mouth experience.
For the mains, the cornfed baby chicken (Dh155) is a highlight. The chicken is grilled and tender to the bite, marinated in a peppery-umami sauce with caramelised mushrooms, all reduced in non-alcoholic red wine.
The beautifully plated grilled octopus tentacle (Dh175) is another winner, sitting on a smooth spread of harissa romesco paste, with crispy roasted potatoes and onions and garnished with salsa. The meat is far from chewy, making for a satisfying experience complimented by the creamy but smoky romesco.
It's desserts that take the cake. We have light-as-air tiramisu with a coffee-soaked sponge layer (Dh85), creamy Basque cheesecake with tart berry compote (Dh60) and “modern baklava”, with pistachio-cardamom ice cream coated in white chocolate and sandwiched between crunchy honey filo layers (Dh65).
Contact information
Elaia is open daily from noon to 2am. Reservations can be made by calling 058 978 1000.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
