The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the latest restaurants just before they open their doors, and ask chefs what dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here is a preview of the menu at Mimi Mei Fair, a Chinese restaurant from London that opens in Dubai on Thursday.
Inside Mimi Mei Fair
With the global popularity of Chinese cuisine and Dubai's fierce competition when it comes to novelty, Mimi Mei Fair has its work cut out. But if Samyukta Nair's passion and enthusiasm are any indication, the Dubai outpost of her chic London venture might just have all the makings of a noteworthy addition to the city's vibrant dining scene.
I catch up with the Indian entrepreneur over lunch, perched on plush seating in the nearly completed restaurant in Downtown Dubai. For someone in the middle of a restaurant-opening whirlwind (she just opened an Italian venture in London), Nair still exudes calm confidence – though she’d probably laugh it off if you pointed it out.
“I'm sorry about the chaos,” she says, alluding to the pre-opening rush as we take a tour of the venue, with one intimate room leading to another.
“You can see 1920s Shanghai in the design, very much inspired by Art Deco,” says Nair. Walking through the venue is an experience in itself, with its stunning blend of moody hues, chinoiserie panels and quirky vintage touches. While many modern restaurants tend to embrace a clean industrial look, Mimi Mei Fair is on the other end of the spectrum: here you'll find utter maximalism full of character yet without being overbearing.
“At its core, Mimi Mei Fair is designed like a residence or empress Mimi's home away from home, if you will,” explains Nair. When I enter through an unassuming front door, the first thing I see is a lavish private dining room, which is a perfect introduction to the venue's flair for the dramatic. It's a feast for the eyes, with the furniture looking like it's curated from the estate of a vintage collector.
Three dining spaces follow: a parlour, anchored by bold red chandeliers and rose velvet banquettes; a library, with a charming mix of English country house and 19th-century Chinese decorative styles; and a garden-style terrace with views of Burj Khalifa. There's also the Moon bar, inspired by the legend of Yutu (aka the Jade Rabbit).
The venue is layered with thoughtful details, with each corner offering its own little surprise. Also tucked away are quirky and personal touches, inspired by Nair's own family stories. “My parents are collectors – from a love for reading and books, to antiques such as Chinese urns, the collectables seen in the space are deeply personal,” she says.
While Nair is not a chef, her involvement in creating the menu is palpable, as much as her obsession with the perfect shade of lacquer for the furniture. Capturing the depth of Chinese cuisine is important to Nair, who has her fair share of stories of living and studying in the country.
The food is a vast mix of Chinese flavours, spanning regions and tastes, from delicate dim-sum-inspired starters to the bold and fiery dishes of Hunan and Sichuan. Nair recommends the following dishes for your first visit when the restaurant opens on Thursday.
Xiao long jewels
“This is our take on xiao long bao, using vegetables to create natural food colouring,” says Nair, who adds it's a popular item in their London location. “The dumplings are very delicate, but are full of flavour.”
Taste test: A theatrical opener that carries the danger of being a bit too cheeky, Mimi Mei Fair's take on the traditional xiao long bao is fun and satisfying. I love soup dumplings, so I was a bit anxious when I saw the dish (purists should order with caution). But the execution is near-flawless, with the quirky wrappers packing an umami bomb inside – my favourite is the spicy crab.
Crispy golden langoustines
“Langoustines can be quite simple, so we added the filo pastry to elevate it. There's also truffle essence that adds to the flavour profile,” says Nair.
Taste test: The langoustines are a visual and textural delight, with the crunch of the filo giving way to the delicate sweetness of the seafood. It's a demonstration of simplicity, with the thoughtful addition of truffle, which adds an interesting earthy element.
Applewood-fired roasted Peking duck
Nair says serving duck is a no-brainer for Mimi Mei Fair, but it is important to have the right tools for it, such as a Josper oven where they use applewood to cook the poultry. “We recommend guests have the skin first, with caviar if they want, before digging into the meat.”
Taste test: The restaurant does a good job of recreating an authentic Chinese duck. The tableside carving adds a performative touch, while the accompanying pancakes and condiments allow me to customise the dish to suit my preferences. The meat is tender and the skin is pure decadence. The applewood adds a subtle smoky aroma.
Hunan crispy Atlantic sea bass
“We have a steamed version of this, but we also wanted to serve it crispy fried,” says Nair, who admits that her South Indian quirks come out when it comes to seafood. “It's quite delicate and warm, which is key to this dish.”
Taste test: The golden crust-concealed fish is moist and flaky, with the chilli-forward sauce providing just the right amount of heat. Chinese sauces can be one-dimensional when done poorly, but this dish has a subtle complexity to it without overwhelming the palate.
