The arrival of the first Dorchester Collection hotel in the Middle East, The Lana, has only added to Dubai's reputation as a top destination for travellers and food enthusiasts.
The hotel's leading restaurant, Riviera by Jean Imbert, bears the name of a French celebrity chef who has come to the UAE for the first time.
So, with expectations high, The National made a booking to check it out.
Where to sit, what to expect
As expected from a Dorchester Collection hotel, Riviera by Jean Imbert is in a beautifully sophisticated venue. With dazzling Burj Khalifa views, I can’t help but be struck by the sense that this spot showcases everything Dubai is known for.
A light colour scheme complemented by elegant marble furniture and a varied selection of interior greenery gives it a distinctively Mediterranean style and it’s with this backdrop that my dining partner and I are directed to our table with the world's tallest building in sight.
The menu
After taking our seats, we opt for the recommendations of our server – sharing a portion of Jean’s avocado and a plate of tuna tartare. Both offer a tremendous touch of aesthetic, with the serving of avocado resembling a dragon's egg that wouldn’t look amiss in an episode of Game of Thrones.
Cutting into the outside, it’s a fried avocado (though a very refined one) that has the egg oozing out as I approach the middle. The egg and avocado combination, although denoting breakfast, works as well post-6pm as it does pre-11am. That said, it’s definitely one to share as it’s a large serving for one.
The tuna, meanwhile, is as delicate and fundamentally delicious. The fish is fresh, expertly prepared and served with light seasoning that draws out its intricate flavour. There's also the option of adding caviar, for those looking to take the experience up a level.
The combination of both dishes serves as the perfect appetiser for the dinner awaiting us.
For our mains, my dining partner decides on the ratatouille tart while I tuck into a beef tenderloin. The ratatouille is presented with a medley of flavour from the stewed vegetables brilliantly blending with the subtlety of parmesan to capture the essence of the Riviera all on one plate.
As for the tenderloin, it’s a wonderful illustration of how a high-quality cut of meat can capture gastronomic senses when seasoned well. The black pepper coating offers a crunchy and flavourful exterior while the spinach balances it out.
After such wonderful mains, my dining partner and I are struggling for space to fit the much-recommended tiramisu so we instead go for a serving of the sorbet.
We try one dollop of mascarpone and one summer fruits, both providing a delightfully refreshing palate cleanser to bring a delicious dinner in a divine setting to a close.
A chat with the chef
Etienne Laffaille is chef de cuisine. His culinary journey began in his hometown of Toulouse, France, where he attended hospitality school in 2002, before stints in China and Vietnam.
Once he returned to France, he held roles at some of the country's finest Michelin-starred restaurants, including L'Ambroisie in Paris (three stars), Michel Sarran (two stars) and La Ferme de Murtoli (one star).
Reflecting on his journey, he explains his deep appreciation for black pepper – a passion strengthened by his training in Vietnam. “The depth and complexity of pepper's flavour has become essential to my cooking,” he says. “Seasoning is a crucial step in unlocking the full flavour potential of each ingredient. On this menu, for instance, our beef tenderloin is seasoned with a pepper crust, executed with precision to enhance the natural marbling of Australian beef.
“The pepper's boldness is expertly balanced with honey, which softens the pepper's intensity, ensuring it’s not overpowering. This approach resonates well in the Middle East, where balanced flavours are prized.”
For the chef, the importance of seasonality is a fundamental part of his cooking style. “I focus on creating seasonal pairings that showcase the freshest, highest quality ingredients,” he says. “But beyond the ingredients, it's the collaborative process that truly defines my approach. I believe that great dishes are the result of collective creativity, so I actively involve my team in the development of every recipe.”
For vegetarians, he picks out the ratatouille tart, for meat lovers he recommends the beef tenderloin with pepper crust and spinach and for seafood fans, he selects the tuna tartare.
As for dessert, Laffaille suggests the iced tiramisu as it makes for a “perfectly satisfying, yet delicate finish to any meal”.
When it comes to a guiding principle, Laffaille is all about balancing work and pleasure. “In the end, it's all about being committed to excellence while staying grounded and enjoying what we do,” he says.
Price point and contact information
Appetisers range from Dh65 to Dh900 ($17.70 to $245), mains are Dh135 to Dh895, while desserts are Dh60 to Dh185.
Riviera by Jean Imbert is open daily from 7am to 10.30am, noon to 3pm and 6.30pm to 11pm on Saturday to Tuesday. Reservations can be made by contacting 04 541 7755
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
