The National's Taste Test series takes you inside the latest restaurants just before they open their doors, and ask chefs what dishes they would recommend – and what makes them special – for you to try (or, indeed, avoid).
Here we get a preview of the menu at Jamavar Dubai, a fine-dining Indian restaurant that opens in Dubai on Friday.
Inside Jamavar Dubai
Another day, another Indian restaurant added to Dubai's bustling culinary scene. However, this beloved Mayfair import, with roots in Bengaluru, is not only armed with a Michelin-starred history courtesy of its London branch, but also promises to serve pan-Indian flavours, which is no small task.
The first Jamavar launched in 2001 at The Leela Palace Bengalaru. Following critical and commercial acclaim, the restaurant opened in five more cities across India. In 2016, Jamavar's first international outpost went to London, earning a coveted Michelin star in 2022.
The Dubai outpost opens this week at Address Residences near Dubai Opera. A peek inside reveals a space that feels grand and cosy at the same time. Subdued colours with intricate patternwork and imposing art pieces adorn the walls, as crystal chandeliers hang overhead. While this sounds opulent, the place still feels homely. There's a bar on one side and an outdoor terrace apt for the cooler months.
Palatial Indian dining is what Jamavar promises its guests, under the direction of culinary mastermind Surender Mohan. The idea is to capture the breadth of Indian cuisine in a carefully thought-out menu, featuring flavours from north to south India. Some of the recipes come from family archives, adding a pleasant charm to the fine-dining experience.
The brand is helmed by father-daughter duo Dinesh and Samyukta Nair, from the founding family of The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts in India and London's LSL Capital.
“The culinary stage in Dubai is really exciting,” Samyukta tells The National. “It's a growing market and a dream for any culinary entrepreneur. I came to Dubai two years ago, and I didn't really enjoy any of the Indian food that I found. Everything was either super-fancy or just too mundane, and I thought this market had an opportunity.”
Samyukta and chef Mohan recommend the following dishes to sample on your first visit.
Chandni Chowk ki aloo tikki
“Chandni Chowk is very famous in Delhi, and the food there is a crucial part of the area. It is famous for its chaats, specifically. This is a star dish in Jamavar London, and comes with tamarind, mint and yoghurt alongside the potato tikki,” says chef Mohan.
Taste test: This dish was like a party in my mouth, with a medley of tasty and celebratory flavours. It had crunch, heat, sweet, tanginess and freshness – a veritable flavour explosion. Naming it after Chandni Chowk is also a stroke of genius. It's like a little piece of Old Delhi history, packed into one crispy patty that is hands down the standout dish at Jamavar.
Malai stone bass tikka
“This dish does not have too much spice, but the flavour is there. You'll taste the fish,” says the chef, whose cooking technique veers towards letting ingredients shine, rather than masking them in spices. “It goes well with the avocado chutney it's served with.”
Taste test: I was a bit nervous when I saw the size of that stone bass thinking no way will this be cooked through. But the fish is perfectly flaky and juicy. The cream marinade adds a subtle richness, allowing the natural taste of the bass to shine. The avocado chutney is fresh and light, with a hint of earthiness to complement the malai punch.
Hyderabadi pathar gosht
Chef Mohan has created a few dishes exclusive to the Dubai outpost, and this A5 Wagyu dish is one. “Pathar gosht is very famous in Hyderabad,” he says. “The meat is cooked on a hot stone, and that's what we do here as well, but we use Wagyu instead of the usual lamb and serve it with a bone marrow salan.”
Taste test: My knowledge of Indian food revolves around the strong curries, so this dish is a breath of fresh air. It's a straightforward piece of Wagyu goodness that can be enjoyed with or without the sauce. My only gripe is that I wish there was more to go around.
Leela's lobster neeruli
“This dish was named after the matriarch of the family, Leela,” says the chef, who's now taking me to the south of India with seafood and coconut in the mix. “I learnt it from her myself, and it's a special recipe that we always want to elevate. The curry has shallots, green chilli and coconut milk. It's not too spicy and actually has a hint of sweetness.”
Taste test: I already knew this was going to be delicious, as my tropical upbringing is partial to a savoury coconut dish. The curry is light and fresh, even with chef Mohan's generous hand for aromatics. The spices add a depth of flavour and the lobster meat is wonderfully tender. I would have preferred white jasmine rice rather than the rice pancake it's served with, but maybe that's just the Filipino in me.
Old Delhi butter chicken
“Our butter chicken is the best butter chicken in Mayfair,” says chef Mohan, who says he does not feel the need to explain the dish further except to add: “People in London go to a lot of other Indian restaurants and they've come to know the difference.”
Taste test: Chef Mohan's take on the classic butter chicken is subtle but flavourful. The spices are not overwhelming or overdone, allowing for the perfect velvet sensation in the mouth. While butter chicken dishes are almost always inviting, a bite or two often feels too much with its richness, but there's almost something light about this version. Were it not for the dishes that preceded it, I'd probably have finished the entire bowl myself.
