Sitting in the shade of olive trees on one side and the looming backlit Burj Al Arab on the other, Cala Vista’s terrace brings a touch of Italy's Amalfi Coast to the heart of Dubai.
With crockery from an Italian nonna's kitchen, the latest Jumeirah Mina A’Salam restaurant – it opened in January – manages to feel both homely and exotic.
While there is no direct translation, Cala Vista can be taken to mean looking out over the cove or “a view from above”, general manager Pasquale Sommella tells me, which is in keeping with its bid to transport diners to the Italian destination.
Where to sit and what to expect
The restaurant has both indoor and terrace seating, and is designed to take full advantage of its naturally beautiful surroundings. Circular booths are placed in the shade of an olive tree, while other tables come with water views over latticed fence work.
With views of Palm Jumeirah in the distance, the terrace is a relaxed, boho-chic affair in a raised, covered area featuring plush white cushions and wooden seating.
The menu
My dining partner and I start with a basket of soft, warm bread, delivered to the table alongside a tomato dip by our smiling server Lidia.
For starters, we order the insalata di carciofi e fiche (Dh55), an artichoke and fig salad with rocket, walnuts, truffle and balsamic dressing; and carpaccio di manzo (Dh120) made from beef striploin, rocket, Parmesan foam and basil pesto. With this and every other course, we order to share, which has the dual benefit of satisfying our taste buds and simplifying the decision-making process.
Both starters are bursting with rich flavours, especially the figs marinated in a tangy dressing. The carpaccio melts in the mouth and, despite knowing I have several more dishes to try, I am determined to finish the lot.
head chef, Cala Vista
Lemons infuse every aspect of the restaurant, from the trees to the crockery and menu. This becomes apparent when we unintentionally order two main dishes that are saturated in lemon sauce. Thankfully, the citrus base of the dentice alla griglia (Dh195), grilled red snapper served with white asparagus and lemon sauce, and the chef-recommended tagliolini al limone, served with burrata (Dh115), is rich but subtle, never overpowering the palate.
Neither dish comes with any accompaniments, so the ever-knowledgeable Lidia suggests we order a side to balance things out. We opt for grilled vegetables (Dh45), a delicious mix of chargrilled asparagus, courgette, aubergine and artichokes.
For dessert, we choose completely different dishes, to avoid our previous mishap – the classic tiramisu, recommended by head chef Luca Crostelli; and il limone, a layered lemon dish befitting of the restaurant’s theme.
No Italian menu would be complete without tiramisu, and this one is no exception. Served in two sizes – individual (Dh60) and sharing (Dh110) – the dessert walks the line perfectly between rich and creamy and light and airy. Opting for the larger size means the dish is freshly prepared tableside, with the option to request decaffeinated coffee.
Standout dish
Il limone (Dh60) unequivocally steals the show. With layers of intense flavour packed into an empty frozen lemon, this dessert hits the spot for those with a sweet tooth and those without.
The tangy lemon sorbet remains tart, complemented by a layer of lemon cream for sweetness and lemon crumble for texture. Topped with a light grating of frozen basil-infused condensed milk and served over ice, this dish alone is enough to guarantee two return customers.
A chat with the chef
Italian chef Luca Crostelli’s career has taken him from his hometown of Florence to Umbria and Geneva before he arrived in the UAE for this new venture. Working alongside Michelin-starred chefs and in three-starred venues has given him high standards, which is he is serving up to guests at the Jumeirah Mina A’Salam dining outlet.
Chef Crostelli started his culinary journey at a young age, working in his family’s restaurant during the summer holidays. With more than 14 years of experience, he describes his approach to cooking as tradi-chic – “blending traditional Italian heritage with contemporary techniques”.
Unsurprisingly for an Italian chef, his favourite ingredient to work with is pasta. “From traditional shapes to innovative textures, pasta is a canvas for creativity,” he says.
From home-made tagliatelle to tagliolini, tortelloni, linguine, pachheri and chitarrine, options abound on the menu. “Pasta holds a special place in my heart and culinary repertoire, and I take great joy in showcasing its versatility on our menu at Cala Vista,” he adds.
For vegetarian diners, chef Crostelli recommends tortelloni alla norma (Dh95), ricotta ravioli with aubergine in a tomato sauce; and, for seafood aficionados, linguine alla vongole (Dh120) – linguine clams.
“I have curated a selection of dishes that celebrate this beloved ingredient, infusing it with a harmonious blend of flavours and textures to tantalise taste buds,” he says.
The menu does branch out beyond pasta, too. For meat enthusiasts, the chef recommends la Milanese (Dh250), which he describes as a “veal Milanese, expertly prepared and served with velvety Parmesan cream and rich veal jus”.
Inspired by the rich tapestry of Italy, chef Crostelli says he strives to craft dishes that are both nostalgic and innovative. “My philosophy is simple yet profound – I want every guest to feel like they're at home, in a cosy place you just can't bear to leave,” he explains.
“As we say in Italy: ‘Come a casa.’”
Price point and contact information
Starters are priced from Dh55 to Dh120; mains cost between Dh90 and Dh295; while desserts are from Dh45 for individual servings to Dh110 to share.
Cala Vista is open daily from 12.30pm to 12.30am. Reservations can be made by contacting 800 323232.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the restaurant
