Michelin Guide Dubai announces 2023 list, with Tresind Studio winning two stars

The Michelin Guide has released this year's list for Dubai, handing out one star to 11 restaurants, two stars to three restaurants and choosing 17 venues as part of its Bib Gourmand category.

The culinary group announced the 2023 list at a press conference at Atlantis The Royal on Tuesday. This brings the number of Dubai's Michelin-starred restaurants from 11 – announced in June last year – to 14.

“Gastronomy has always been key to Dubai,” said Issam Kazim, chief executive of the Dubai Department of Tourism and Commerce Marketing, during his opening speech at the ceremony. “Dubai is both a cosmopolitan city with a lot of different flavours, as well as one of the most visited places in the world right now.”

This year's stars

A total of 11 restaurants got one Michelin star each, with 11 Woodfire, Al Muntaha, Armani/Ristorante, Hakkasan, Hoseki, Ossiano, Tasca by Jose Avillez and Torno Subito all retaining their single-star status.

New restaurants to obtain a star included Avatara, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and Moonrise.

One star is conferred upon venues that use “top-quality ingredients, where dishes with distinct flavours are prepared to a consistently high standard”, according to the Michelin website.

Three restaurants secured two stars apiece. Il Ristorante – Niko Romito and Stay by Yannick Alleno both retained theirs, while Tresind Studio went from having one star to two.

Aside from food quality, the guide awards two stars to restaurants where the “personality and talent of the chef are evident in their expertly crafted dishes”.

“We were six months old when we got our first star. Now 11 Woodfire is a year old and we have found our own voice,” Akmal Anuar, chef and founder of 11 Woodfire, told The National.

“We’ve ensured what gave us a star is delivered to all our patrons. It has been a year of push.”

No Dubai restaurant has yet been awarded three stars, which is the highest Michelin accolade. It is given to venues that demonstrate “superlative cooking”, such that the dishes are “elevated to an art form” and are destined to become culinary classics.

Bib Gourmand restaurants

Komplet egg with foie gras at 21grams, the Balkan restaurant that is now part of the Michelin Guide Dubai's Bib Gourmand category. Photo: 21grams

Three new entrants made it to the Bib Gourmand category, which represents value-for-money spots. These are: Japanese-inspired venue 3Fils, Balkan restaurant 21grams and fine-dining Indian spot Aamara.

All 14 restaurants from the 2022 list retained their Bib Gourmand status: Al Khayma, Bait Maryam, Brasserie Boulud, Fi'lia, folly, Goldfish, Ibn AlBahr, Indya by Vineet, Kinoya, Ninive, Orfali Bros, Reif Japanese Kushiyaki, Shabestan and Teible.

Named after Bibendum, the Michelin Man and official company mascot of the Michelin Group, the Bib Gourmand category is “not quite a star, but most definitely not a consolation prize”, according to the guide.

Stasha Toncev, founder of 21grams, said: “We have been privileged to bring Balkan cuisine to the forefront of the culinary world. This accolade and recognition from Michelin reflects our commitment to showcasing the rich flavours, vibrant traditions and diverse culinary heritage of the region.”

Special awards

Chef Ariana Bundy won the Opening of the Year Award for her restaurant Ariana's Persian Kitchen located at Atlantis The Royal. Chris Whiteoak / The National

A new category was introduced for 2023 – the Opening of the Year award. This was conferred upon chef Ariana Bundy for her restaurant Ariana's Persian Kitchen located in Atlantis The Royal. “You don't know what you've done for Iranian people and Iranian women,” Bundy said in a heartfelt speech at the ceremony.

Three restaurants won the coveted Michelin Green Star, which recognises restaurants with a strong sustainability approach. Last year's winner Lowe retained its green star, while Boca and Teible were awarded one each this year, too.

Omkar Walve of vegetarian-only restaurant Avatara took home the Young Chef Award.

Elsewhere, the Service Award was won by Tomislav Lokvicic from La Mar by Gaston Acurio, while fellow Atlantis The Royal restaurant Dinner by Heston Blumenthal received the Sommelier Award, given to Arturo Scamardella.

Putting Dubai on the culinary map

Chefs and industry players have welcomed the Michelin Guide's presence in the UAE, and say it is a testament to the city's rising dining scene.

Immediately after the announcement of Tresind Studio's one-star accolade last June, its head chef Himanshu Saini told The National how it was a moment of reflection to “evolve the cuisine even further and push for two stars”, which is exactly what Saini and his team have done.

A similar sentiment was shared by chef Niko Romito of Il Ristorante. He described the achievement as “a very important acknowledgement of our work and the vision”, and said it meant they will have to “keep in our direction, but enforce our efforts to constantly improve ourselves and do better”.

For chefs who have yet to earn the Michelin nod for their restaurants, the guide provides strong motivation.

“It sets a tone for competition among chefs to be the very best. This means we are always adapting and enhancing our culinary skills to do the next best thing. It also is a driving force for businesses, since a lot of people tend to visit your restaurant after obtaining a star,” says Manisha Advani, executive chef of MyGovinda’s and Soul Sante Cafe.

How Michelin stars are born

The famously anonymous Michelin inspectors are full-time employees, most of whom are former restaurant and hospitality professionals. After their random visits to restaurants, the team meets and discusses their experiences to make a final selection.

“The inspectors were amazed by what they discovered in the field, from heart-warming eateries and mesmerising hotels to the unique spark that Dubai has,” said Elisabeth Boucher-Anselin, director of communications for Michelin Experiences. Gwendal Poullennec, the guide’s international director, echoed this thought via a recorded video message, noting that the inspectors were impressed by the “growth and evolution of Dubai’s culinary scene over the past year”.

Five universal criteria are taken into consideration:

1. The quality of the ingredients

2. The mastery of cooking

3. The harmony of flavours

4. The personality of the chef reflected through the cuisine

5. The consistency both over time and across the entire menu

Service, according to the guide, has no bearing on a Michelin star,

These strict guidelines make the Michelin Guide a coveted list for chefs and restaurants, who also benefit from the customer pull of the stars. Gastro-tourism has grown over the years with many jet-setting foodies planning their trips around dining options.

Following on from the Dubai guide, Abu Dhabi got its first Michelin Guide last year, with a total of 42 restaurants making the cut, three of which got a Michelin star each. Michelin has not said yet when this year's selection for the capital will be made.

“The Michelin Guide has historically elevated various cities' culinary reputation and has attracted food enthusiasts worldwide, making each city that has a list worth travelling to,” said Pavel Nigai, the head chef of Katsuya at Hyde Dubai.

“For us, industry players, its presence inspires local restaurants to strive for excellence.”

Full list of restaurants in the Michelin Guide Dubai 2023

3Fils (Bib Gourmand)
11 Woodfire (one star)
21grams (Bib Gourmand)
99 Sushi Bar
Aamara (Bib Gourmand)
Akira Back
Al Fanar
Al Khayma (Bib Gourmand)
Al Mandaloun
Al Muntaha (one star)
Amazonico
Ariana's Persian Kitchen
Armani/Hashi
Armani/Ristorante (one star)
At.mosphere
Avatara (one star)
Avli by Tashas
Bait Maryam (Bib Gourmand)
Boca (green star)
Bombay Bungalow
Brasserie Boulud (Bib Gourmand)
Carnival by Tresind
Ce La Vi
Celebrities by Mauro Colagreco
Chic Nonna
Cipriani
City Social
Clap
Coya
Demon Duck by Alvin Leung
Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (one star)
Fi'lia (Bib Gourmand)
Folly (Bib Gourmand)
Fouquet's
French Riviera
Gaia
Goldfish (Bib Gourmand)
Hakkasan (one star)
Hell's Kitchen
Hoseki (one star)
Hutong
Ibn AlBahr (Bib Gourmand)
Il Borro
Il Ristorante – Niko Romito (two stars)
Indego by Vineet
Indya by Vineet (Bib Gourmand)
Jaleo
Josette
Jun's
Kinoya (Bib Gourmand)
La Mar
L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon
Little Miss India
L'Ovlivo
Lowe (green star)
Marea
Masti
Maya Bay
Milos
Mimi Kakushi
Mina Brasserie
Moonrise (one star)
Mott32
Netsu by Ross Shonhan
Ninive (Bib Gourmand)
Nobu
Orfali Bros (Bib Gourmand)
Ossiano (one star)
Pierchic
Pierre's TT
Reif Japanese Kushiyaki (Bib Gourmand)
Rhodes W1
Rockfish
RSVP
Ruya
Sea Fu
Shabestan (Bib Gourmand)
Shang Palace
Siraj
Stay by Yannick Alleno (two stars)
Sucre
Takahisa
Tan Cha
Tasca by Jose Avillez (one star)
Teible (Bib Gourmand and green star)
The Artisan
Torno Subito (one star)
Tresind
Tresind Studio (two stars)
Zuma

Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.

Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.

“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.

“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.

Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.

From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.

Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.

BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.

Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.

Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.

“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.

Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.

“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.

“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”

The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”

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Game 3: Saturday (UAE)

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What is an FTO Designation?

FTO designations impose immigration restrictions on members of the organisation simply by virtue of their membership and triggers a criminal prohibition on knowingly providing material support or resources to the designated organisation as well as asset freezes.

It is a crime for a person in the United States or subject to the jurisdiction of the United States to knowingly provide “material support or resources” to or receive military-type training from or on behalf of a designated FTO.

Representatives and members of a designated FTO, if they are aliens, are inadmissible to and, in certain circumstances removable from, the United States.

Except as authorised by the Secretary of the Treasury, any US financial institution that becomes aware that it has possession of or control over funds in which an FTO or its agent has an interest must retain possession of or control over the funds and report the funds to the Treasury Department.

Source: US Department of State

Your rights as an employee

The government has taken an increasingly tough line against companies that fail to pay employees on time. Three years ago, the Cabinet passed a decree allowing the government to halt the granting of work permits to companies with wage backlogs.

The new measures passed by the Cabinet in 2016 were an update to the Wage Protection System, which is in place to track whether a company pays its employees on time or not.

If wages are 10 days late, the new measures kick in and the company is alerted it is in breach of labour rules. If wages remain unpaid for a total of 16 days, the authorities can cancel work permits, effectively shutting off operations. Fines of up to Dh5,000 per unpaid employee follow after 60 days.

Despite those measures, late payments remain an issue, particularly in the construction sector. Smaller contractors, such as electrical, plumbing and fit-out businesses, often blame the bigger companies that hire them for wages being late.

The authorities have urged employees to report their companies at the labour ministry or Tawafuq service centres — there are 15 in Abu Dhabi.