They say that revenge is a dish best served cold, so when designer Victoria Beckham was deciding where to celebrate the tenth anniversary of her self-titled fashion label, it was interesting that she chose London.
After all, this is the city that, when she launched her brand a decade ago, resolutely refused to take the former Spice Girl seriously, effectively forcing her to decamp to New York, where she was greeted with open arms.
Now, ten years later, Beckham has swept back into the city that once dismissed her and – no doubt with a sense of triumph – delivered a spring/summer 2019 collection that forced the very same press to eat its words. As her show yesterday proved, Victoria Beckham is a grown-up label that knows exactly who its client is, and what that client wants: flawless luxury delivered with just the right amount of sass.
Staged in a gallery in Dover Street (itself a focus for edgy new brands), the show opened with model royalty Stella Tennant striding out in an all-white look of lace-trimmed camisole top with wide-cut, side-fastening trousers, finished with a masculine-cut jacket. Next came a burnt orange tunic layered over a short dress, followed by a telephone box red knitted dress that clung to the body, before falling into an asymmetric handkerchief hem. Such asymmetry became a theme running through the whole collection, appearing in boxy tops worn with cross body bags and knitted dresses over stove pipe trousers. The palette was Beckham's staple of ochre, black and white, mixed with bright patterns so tiny they appeared as a blur, or even with some golden brocade thrown in for extra gleam.
A native of Essex, Beckham started her label producing three-quarter-length dresses so severely cut, it was tough going to walk, let along sit, in them. Now her brand has matured into a signature look of louche, relaxed dressing, matched by her personal more-laid-back style.
While it may be relaxed, this collection was extremely well put together, showing plenty of the business savvy Beckham is known for, with deeply desirable pieces such as an untucked, patchworked lace shirt, or a long fluid black halter dress that brought an unmistakable New York air to the British capital. Confident, assured and flawlessly put together, yesterday’s show was triumphant. Beckham got her revenge.
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