Look 2: riot of colour. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 2: riot of colour. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 2: riot of colour. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 2: riot of colour. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy

A glimpse at the colorful history of Emirati fashion


  • English
  • Arabic

Where to buy

Limited-edition art prints of The Sofa Series: Sultani can be acquired from Reem El Mutwalli at www.reemelmutwalli.com

Ask any woman what she was wearing at key points in her life, and she’ll probably be able to tell you. Just as photographs, artworks and other souvenirs can evoke memories, a woman’s wardrobe can catalogue her personal history, while also more broadly reflecting the life and times in which she lived.

Reem El Mutwalli, who has previously described herself as a “scholar who happens to design”, has gathered and curated a collection of more than 170 Emirati dresses, many of which have been worn by members of the UAE’s royal families. The gorgeous fabrics, colours, weaving, embroidery and embellishments of the Sultani collection (named after a striped opaque silk that is popular in the region), provide fascinating insight into the UAE’s identity.

With the aim of making these exquisite pieces accessible to a wider audience, and providing a window into "the expression of a society's character and history, indicating aspects of its culture, heritage and prevailing attitude", El Mutwalli recently collaborated with Omani photographer Issa Saleh Al Kindy, to produce a series of limited-edition photographic prints called The Sofa Series: Sultani. These feature four different pieces from the collection, complete with accessories, modelled by El Mutwalli's daughter Mae Noaf, seated on a velvet sofa in her mother's home.

“Both parties are avid connoisseurs of culture and art,” says the designer of the collaboration. “Both [of us] understand the imperative need to accurately document and preserve such garments. And we both appreciate that many lovers of art, UAE heritage and culture, would like to keep a token of such articles of history, but cannot possibly acquire the original garment,” she adds.

El Mutwalli has previously collaborated with artists, events and institutions on unique installations or exhibits featuring select pieces from the Sultani collection. The fragile and embellished nature of many of the fabrics mean that the number of displays, not to mention their duration, needs to be limited, in order to preserve this collection for future generations. "These are articles of delicate fabrics that are hard to collect, due to an earlier un-sedentary lifestyle," she says. "People here have a culture of giving away or recycling their old garments."

The dresses in the collection date from the early 1950s, and are a culmination of 25 years of El Mutwalli's efforts. Sultani fabric is unique and cannot be replicated. "It represents my humble appreciation and is an act of giving back to a culture that I grew up in, and a history I have individually witnessed," she explains.

Look 1: modern design

Look 1: modern design. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 1: modern design. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy

This dress began with a hand-painted portrait of Sheikh Zayed, the Founding Father, by Sheikha Alyazia bint Nahyan Al Nahyan, who was an aspiring artist at the time. Her mother, Sheikha Fakhira bint Saeed Al Nahyan, then designed the blue chiffon garment to complement the artwork, with the addition of detailed embroidery and embellishment work, which was carried out by skilled artisans. It provides an example of the unification of two traditional articles of dress (the thobe and the kandura) into one, which is the norm nowadays as the kandura evolved into the inner slip of the thobe and is generally attached to it, at the neckline. It was worn on many occasions by Sheikha Alyazia and was ultimately donated to the Sultani collection.

Look 2: riot of colour

Look 2: riot of colour. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 2: riot of colour. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy

This ensemble embodies key elements of traditional UAE dress and dates back to around 1984. A burqa or face mask covers most of the wearer’s facial features. The shayla is made from black cotton gauze, which reflects an earlier style of this type of headscarf. Here, it engulfs most of the body to create an extra layer of concealment when combined with a thobe (the term used for a loose-fitting, formal over-garment). The body of the thobe is made up of coloured panels of lightly patterned chiffon. Traditional Emirati “teli”, or embroidery work, sees silver thread intertwined with monocoloured cotton, forming a lace pattern at the neckline. The kandura, an inner tunic dress, is made from traditional striped opaque silk known as sultani. Sirwal, or printed cotton underpants, are decorated at the ankle cuffs with teli work. All these articles were traditionally worn together in an array of mismatched textures and colours.

Look 3: bridal finery

Look 3: bridal finery. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 3: bridal finery. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy

Sheikha Hamda bint Mohammed Al Nahyan, maternal aunt to the President, Sheikh Khalifa, commissioned this dress as a gift to El Mutwalli and instructed the late Fatima bint Saad, a well-known palace dressmaker, to base the design on the style of her own wedding dress. The dress is embroidered on the neckline, central axis and sleeve cuffs with pure gold discs, some of which resemble embossed gold coins.

Look 4: fancy threads

Look 4: fancy threads. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy
Look 4: fancy threads. Courtesy Issa Saleh AlKindy

Also from the 1980s, this brocade silk chiffon dress features metallic thread from Japan, which was introduced to the region around this time. The thobe is worn over the kandura. It is embellished with teli work, which has been applied to the neckline and sleeve cuffs. The dress was previously worn by Sheikha Salama bint Hamdan Al Nahyan, wife of Sheikh Mohammed bin Zayed, Crown Prince of Abu Dhabi and Deputy Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces. El Mutwalli saw it being worn on numerous social and official occasions before it was eventually donated to the Sultani collection.

____________________
Read more:

The evolution of the abaya

We speak to a master in the art of discretion: Dr Reem El Mutwalli

Dr Karima Alshomely on the inspiration behind The Emirati Burqa exhibition

____________________

UPI facts

More than 2.2 million Indian tourists arrived in UAE in 2023
More than 3.5 million Indians reside in UAE
Indian tourists can make purchases in UAE using rupee accounts in India through QR-code-based UPI real-time payment systems
Indian residents in UAE can use their non-resident NRO and NRE accounts held in Indian banks linked to a UAE mobile number for UPI transactions

Star%20Wars%3A%20Episode%20I%20%E2%80%93%20The%20Phantom%20Menace
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EDeveloper%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Big%20Ape%20Productions%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EPublisher%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20LucasArts%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3EConsoles%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20PC%2C%20PlayStation%3Cbr%3E%3Cstrong%3ERating%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%202%2F5%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Our legal consultant

Name: Hassan Mohsen Elhais

Position: legal consultant with Al Rowaad Advocates and Legal Consultants.

Specs

Engine: Dual-motor all-wheel-drive electric

Range: Up to 610km

Power: 905hp

Torque: 985Nm

Price: From Dh439,000

Available: Now

The specs
 
Engine: 3.0-litre six-cylinder turbo
Power: 398hp from 5,250rpm
Torque: 580Nm at 1,900-4,800rpm
Transmission: Eight-speed auto
Fuel economy, combined: 6.5L/100km
On sale: December
Price: From Dh330,000 (estimate)
UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
Labour dispute

The insured employee may still file an ILOE claim even if a labour dispute is ongoing post termination, but the insurer may suspend or reject payment, until the courts resolve the dispute, especially if the reason for termination is contested. The outcome of the labour court proceedings can directly affect eligibility.


- Abdullah Ishnaneh, Partner, BSA Law 

Specs – Taycan 4S
Engine: Electric

Transmission: 2-speed auto

Power: 571bhp

Torque: 650Nm

Price: Dh431,800

Specs – Panamera
Engine: 3-litre V6 with 100kW electric motor

Transmission: 2-speed auto

Power: 455bhp

Torque: 700Nm

Price: from Dh431,800

MOUNTAINHEAD REVIEW

Starring: Ramy Youssef, Steve Carell, Jason Schwartzman

Director: Jesse Armstrong

Rating: 3.5/5

While you're here
Sole survivors
  • Cecelia Crocker was on board Northwest Airlines Flight 255 in 1987 when it crashed in Detroit, killing 154 people, including her parents and brother. The plane had hit a light pole on take off
  • George Lamson Jr, from Minnesota, was on a Galaxy Airlines flight that crashed in Reno in 1985, killing 68 people. His entire seat was launched out of the plane
  • Bahia Bakari, then 12, survived when a Yemenia Airways flight crashed near the Comoros in 2009, killing 152. She was found clinging to wreckage after floating in the ocean for 13 hours.
  • Jim Polehinke was the co-pilot and sole survivor of a 2006 Comair flight that crashed in Lexington, Kentucky, killing 49.
SPECS
%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EEngine%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Dual%20electric%20motors%20with%20102kW%20battery%20pack%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPower%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3E570hp%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ETorque%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20890Nm%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3ERange%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Up%20to%20428km%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EOn%20sale%3A%3C%2Fstrong%3E%20Now%3C%2Fp%3E%0A%3Cp%3E%3Cstrong%3EPrice%3A%20%3C%2Fstrong%3EFrom%20Dh1%2C700%2C000%3C%2Fp%3E%0A
Moon Music

Artist: Coldplay

Label: Parlophone/Atlantic

Number of tracks: 10

Rating: 3/5

UAE currency: the story behind the money in your pockets
What is Folia?

Prince Khaled bin Alwaleed bin Talal's new plant-based menu will launch at Four Seasons hotels in Dubai this November. A desire to cater to people looking for clean, healthy meals beyond green salad is what inspired Prince Khaled and American celebrity chef Matthew Kenney to create Folia. The word means "from the leaves" in Latin, and the exclusive menu offers fine plant-based cuisine across Four Seasons properties in Los Angeles, Bahrain and, soon, Dubai.

Kenney specialises in vegan cuisine and is the founder of Plant Food Wine and 20 other restaurants worldwide. "I’ve always appreciated Matthew’s work," says the Saudi royal. "He has a singular culinary talent and his approach to plant-based dining is prescient and unrivalled. I was a fan of his long before we established our professional relationship."

Folia first launched at The Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills in July 2018. It is available at the poolside Cabana Restaurant and for in-room dining across the property, as well as in its private event space. The food is vibrant and colourful, full of fresh dishes such as the hearts of palm ceviche with California fruit, vegetables and edible flowers; green hearb tacos filled with roasted squash and king oyster barbacoa; and a savoury coconut cream pie with macadamia crust.

In March 2019, the Folia menu reached Gulf shores, as it was introduced at the Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, where it is served at the Bay View Lounge. Next, on Tuesday, November 1 – also known as World Vegan Day – it will come to the UAE, to the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach and the Four Seasons DIFC, both properties Prince Khaled has spent "considerable time at and love". 

There are also plans to take Folia to several more locations throughout the Middle East and Europe.

While health-conscious diners will be attracted to the concept, Prince Khaled is careful to stress Folia is "not meant for a specific subset of customers. It is meant for everyone who wants a culinary experience without the negative impact that eating out so often comes with."

Premier Futsal 2017 Finals

Al Wasl Football Club; six teams, five-a-side

Delhi Dragons: Ronaldinho
Bengaluru Royals: Paul Scholes
Mumbai Warriors: Ryan Giggs
Chennai Ginghams: Hernan Crespo
Telugu Tigers: Deco
Kerala Cobras: Michel Salgado

UAE Falcons

Carly Lewis (captain), Emily Fensome, Kelly Loy, Isabel Affley, Jessica Cronin, Jemma Eley, Jenna Guy, Kate Lewis, Megan Polley, Charlie Preston, Becki Quigley and Sophie Siffre. Deb Jones and Lucia Sdao – coach and assistant coach.

 
BIGGEST CYBER SECURITY INCIDENTS IN RECENT TIMES

SolarWinds supply chain attack: Came to light in December 2020 but had taken root for several months, compromising major tech companies, governments and its entities

Microsoft Exchange server exploitation: March 2021; attackers used a vulnerability to steal emails

Kaseya attack: July 2021; ransomware hit perpetrated REvil, resulting in severe downtime for more than 1,000 companies

Log4j breach: December 2021; attackers exploited the Java-written code to inflitrate businesses and governments

GOLF’S RAHMBO

- 5 wins in 22 months as pro
- Three wins in past 10 starts
- 45 pro starts worldwide: 5 wins, 17 top 5s
- Ranked 551th in world on debut, now No 4 (was No 2 earlier this year)
- 5th player in last 30 years to win 3 European Tour and 2 PGA Tour titles before age 24 (Woods, Garcia, McIlroy, Spieth)

Asia Cup Qualifier

Final
UAE v Hong Kong

TV:
Live on OSN Cricket HD. Coverage starts at 5.30am

The specs: 2018 Volkswagen Teramont

Price, base / as tested Dh137,000 / Dh189,950

Engine 3.6-litre V6

Gearbox Eight-speed automatic

Power 280hp @ 6,200rpm

Torque 360Nm @ 2,750rpm

Fuel economy, combined 11.7L / 100km

BEETLEJUICE BEETLEJUICE

Starring: Winona Ryder, Michael Keaton, Jenny Ortega

Director: Tim Burton

Rating: 3/5

FIXTURES

Monday, January 28
Iran v Japan, Hazza bin Zayed Stadium (6pm)

Tuesday, January 29
UAEv Qatar, Mohamed Bin Zayed Stadium (6pm)

Friday, February 1
Final, Zayed Sports City Stadium (6pm)

Defence review at a glance

• Increase defence spending to 2.5% of GDP by 2027 but given “turbulent times it may be necessary to go faster”

• Prioritise a shift towards working with AI and autonomous systems

• Invest in the resilience of military space systems.

• Number of active reserves should be increased by 20%

• More F-35 fighter jets required in the next decade

• New “hybrid Navy” with AUKUS submarines and autonomous vessels

Where to buy

Limited-edition art prints of The Sofa Series: Sultani can be acquired from Reem El Mutwalli at www.reemelmutwalli.com