"Welcome to the Philippines, I hope you enjoy your stay," the immigration clerk in Manila says in perfect American English as he hands me back my passport. I walk out of customs with excitement and curiosity, now that I've finally made my way to the home of 600,000 current UAE residents. This interest brewed recently following the grand efforts made by the Philippines's tourist board to welcome visitors from the Middle East.
It’s hard to pass by Terminal 3 at Dubai International Airport without noticing the large, gleaming posters of happy couples and families enjoying their day on the beaches of Boracay or under the waterfalls of Cebu, yet Manila has earned a questionable reputation on matters such as ease of transport, poverty and the crime rate. With neighbouring rivals such as Bangkok and Singapore, Manila unfortunately has been lower on travel enthusiasts’ bucket lists. With a crime rate twice that of Bangkok, these were concerns that lingered in the back of my mind.
However, all of that was about to change, and within five minutes I’m already reassured and impressed by the high-rises that fill the skies, and the number of shopping and multi-complex centres that are havens for tourists and locals alike. I can’t help thinking how this place reminds me of Bangkok – first, because of the traffic: a 20-minute drive can easily turn into an hour-long journey, so plan your trips carefully or use the Metro where possible.
Passing through the traffic jams, we arrive in the central area of Makati, the heart of the financial district and home to large corporations, embassies and five-star hotel chains. Makati has also managed to build a reputation as one of the city’s most influential centres for arts and culture, with investments from prominent Filipinos such as the Ayala family. There are various points of interest in Makati, including the Ayala Museum or Greenbelt, an upmarket shopping complex housing local and international brands. I find Makati the perfect resting spot in Manila, staying at The Peninsula hotel, as well as offering top-class facilities and food. I’m happy to find a prayer mat and Quran in my room (I’d informed them of my religious requirements). In general, Manila seems accommodating to Muslim tourists – there’s a large number of halal restaurants and separate halal kitchens in most five-star hotels.
As the temperature begins to rise during the day, we head into the shopping centres alongside large crowds of families. Here, shopping might as well be a national sport. It’s practically synonymous with one name in Manila: SM. With more than 208 malls around the Philippines, SM currently has two of the world’s top 5 largest malls. My options aren’t just limited to retail: a visit to SM’s Mall of Asia includes an open concert hall, an Olympic-sized ice skating rink and a science discovery centre. After a long and impressive day wandering the shopping malls, I sit and enjoy a sip of Bo’s Coffee, one of several national coffee chains in the Philippines, and enjoy watching the crowds.
After a couple of days, I’m excited to see more of the country, and set out to explore Cebu, the oldest city in the Philippines. Still with pictures of white sandy beaches in my head, I’m surprised to land in what looks like a miniature Manila, albeit with fewer skyscrapers and less traffic.
Cebu is actually a large island – the second most populated island in the country. Its location made it a prime stop for the many Arab and Siamese traders who passed through here for hundreds of years and played a role in shaping it.
I feel like I take my first real step into Filipino culture when I begin exploring Cebu. Walking through the historic quarters of the city, I arrive at Magellan’s Street to the soft chants of local women dressed in red and yellow. “Viva pit Señor,” they say (“Hail to the holy child”). As I step closer, I realise that the women are dancing in front of Magellan’s Cross, which was planted here by Portuguese and Spanish explorers when they arrived in 1521.
The crowd and noise grow stronger as we approach Basilica Minore del Santo Niño, an important monument that hosts the Sinulog, a religious and cultural festival exclusive to Cebu. I begin to see the vast differences between Manila and Cebu as I observe the Spanish architecture. The old Spanish fortress of San Pedro and the Sandiego-Yap ancestral home are among the places I visit.
Next, I head towards the island of Mactan, connected to the city by a bridge. I begin to get a glimpse of the postcard pictures of pristine clear waters. Mactan is one of many islands that tourists can opt for when visiting Cebu, with an array of watersports and boat rides to choose from; diving is one of the most popular activities.
Instead of enjoying a lazy morning on Mactan’s white sandy beaches, I opt to rise at 6.30am and head out to the southernmost part of Cebu island, the city of Oslob. Large tour buses accompany us throughout the journey, all taking passengers for the same memorable experience of swimming with whale sharks. We arrive and are welcomed by a rush of tour groups changing into swimming gear. We’re taken to our boats and head out to the middle of the ocean. With my eyes wide open, I look for any sign of movement in the water, and the whole boat cheers when we see our first whale shark, and we all jump in to the ocean. The creatures are astounding in size; we’re lucky to swim with seven of them.
Once back on land, our group is starving, so we head to Manna Sutukil, an open-air Filipino restaurant where you can choose your seafood and how you want it cooked. This is as close as possible to getting a home-cooked meal in a restaurant, our guide told us, and it’s by far the best food we have in Cebu, enjoying a table filled with large milkfish on white rice, with steamed prawns and fresh coconut water.
We complete our tour of Oslob and Cebu at Tumalog Falls. If you don’t want to walk down to the waterfalls, many motorcyclists are available to take you. It’s the perfect pit stop and makes for great pictures.
After two great days filled with culture and adventure, I’m now ready to unwind and enjoy some rest and relaxation on the shores of one of the best beach locations in the world, Boracay. “Welcome to paradise,” the Shangri-La’s guest relations manager says with a big smile. After a 45-minute plane ride from Cebu to Kalibo, then another couple of hours to reach the resort, all the hassle seems to disappear once we set foot on this island.
The Shangri-La is one of the many luxury resorts on Station 1 (Boracay is divided into three stations), where hotels offer exclusive access to private beaches. We have ample activities to enjoy at the resort, including jet-skiing, kayaking and diving. We opt to enjoy our day island hopping. On-board a local boat, we venture for a half-day tour around remote islands. Many of the islands are equipped with rest stops with tables and shade for visitors. This gives us a chance to enjoy a great lunch filled with an array of seafood.
After a long day in the sun, a night out to mingle with the locals and other tourists seems like a great idea. A 15-minute complimentary shuttle from the Shangri-La brings us to Station 2 of Boracay, which is famous for its long white beach that houses many restaurants with live music throughout the night. Alternatively, for those who want to buy souvenirs, many of the shops stay open for tourists until 11pm.
As we take the midnight shuttle back to the hotel, I reflect on my week-long trip, and conclude that this is one of the most underrated countries in Asia.
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