Why London Docklands?
Since Roman times, boats coming up the Thames docked along the river in the City of London; by the 1700s, when the city was the centre of global trade, there was not enough space for the boats or their cargo. Areas to the east were developed to accommodate them, stretching from Rotherhithe to modern-day Newham and North Greenwich. After German bombing in the Second World War and economic decline following the docks’ inability to accommodate even larger container ships, for which even larger docks were built even farther east, the area was stagnant before being regenerated in the 1980s. Canary Wharf, named after the Canary Islands, from which fruits used to be unloaded, was developed largely with Canadian money; 10 kilometres from central London, it now employs more than 100,000 people mainly in banking and finance, and the area has become a desirable place to live. Some of its considerable history remains, alongside brand-new structures reminiscent of corporate America. Middle Eastern investment from Qatar and the UAE completes the area’s amazing juxtaposition of local and global.
A comfortable bed
The most indulgent base is the Four Seasons Canary Wharf (www.fourseasons.com/canarywharf), which has double rooms from £215 (Dh1,237) per night, including taxes but not breakfast. Its riverside location means you can jump on a riverboat and be in central London in 10 minutes – an unusually scenic way of getting about in the capital. For something cheaper but still quiet and comfortable, travel a bit farther out to the Abu Dhabi-owned Excel Exhibition Centre, where the Aloft London Excel (www.aloftlondonexcel.com) has double rooms from £85 (Dh476) per night, including taxes but not breakfast.
Find your feet
Start at the Norman Foster-designed Canary Wharf underground station, looking up to your right for a great view of the 55-storey One Canada Square building. Walk up the steps, through the shopping centre and out the other side to see the startling new Crossrail station, due to open in 2018. Cross over the footbridge and walk along West India Quay to see some of the oldest remaining warehouses, now filled with expensive apartments and restaurants. One of the buildings has been retained as the Museum of Docklands. Head back over the footbridge and take a right, and you'll get a great view down the Thames. Walk along the riverside to Narrow Street, still home to many historic wharves and riverside pubs, including The Grapes, which is mentioned in Dickens' Our Mutual Friend. From here you can walk all the way along the river to St Katharine Docks, near the Tower of London and Tower Bridge.
Meet the locals
It comes as a surprise to those familiar with the area's squeaky-clean malls that right next door is Billingsgate Fish Market (www.cityoflondon.gov.uk), the UK's largest inland fish market. It's open from 4am to 9.30am for visits, and has great atmosphere as traders shout and buyers deal. For a guided tour followed by a class in fish preparation, book in with the Billingsgate Seafood School; places cost £55 (Dh308) per person for three hours (www.seafoodtraining.org). Just down the road at Bow Creek is the still-under-the-radar Trinity Buoy Wharf (www.trinitybouywharf.com), a gritty waterside arts complex made up of historic buildings and modern container-style workshops. Apart from art installations, there's a drawing school, artists' workspaces, a parkour centre and two cafes. Wander around or book a tour.
Book a table
Canary Wharf is now home to dozens of cafes and restaurants at all price points. I like Wahaca (www.wahaca.co.uk), a Mexican eatery with a great menu and funky design; cactus and corn tacos for £3.95 (Dh22) or chicken burritos for £6.95 (Dh39). For a much more traditional experience, visit The Grapes in Narrow Street (www.thegrapes.co.uk), which dates from 1583, and have the fish and chips (battered haddock, chunky chips and peas) for £9.95 (Dh56). If you're craving Chinese, Yi Ban (www.yi-ban.com) at the London Regatta Centre overlooks Royal Albert Dock and London City Airport. Weekends are packed with dim-sum enthusiasts; from the normal menu, kung pao chicken is £8 (Dh45) and mapo tofu £10 (Dh56).
Shopper’s paradise
Canary Wharf now has five connected shopping centres with hundreds of shops. Most are high-street clothing brands, but you can also shop for luggage, cosmetics, confectionery, stationery, electronics, furniture, books, music and art, and the number of smaller outlets is growing. See www.canarywharf.com/shopping for a full guide.
Don’t miss
Free entry to the Museum of London Docklands (www.museumoflondon.org.uk/docklands), open 10am to 6pm.
What to avoid
The London Marathon usually takes place in April and results in blocked roads, clogged trains and crowds.
Getting there
Etihad (www.etihad.com) flies direct from Abu Dhabi to London in seven hours, from Dh3,635 return, including taxes.
