Why Ljubljana
Slovenia’s capital – and 2016’s European Green Capital – must rank as one of the most agreeable cities in Europe. It’s small but punches above its weight with beautifully preserved 17th-century architecture and dozens of cafes lining the Ljubljanica River. Its young population keeps things buzzing at a pleasantly civilised pace. Hardly a month goes by without a major cultural festival – from classical music and jazz to graphic arts and an international film showcase.
Away from the genteel Baroque and Art Nouveau centre, Ljubljana pulls out an alternative cultural surprise with Metelkova Mesto. What used to be a collection of rundown army barracks has morphed into one of Europe's biggest urban squats and the centre of Ljubljana's underground music and art scene. In the evenings, the barracks – now covered in sculptures, mosaics and murals – turn into galleries, bars and venues for music, theatre and club nights.
Ljubljana is a year-round city, and many use it as a winter base for ski holidays.
A comfortable bed
At Vander Urbani Resort, you're only a few metres away from the river. Its smart contemporary rooms have a sleek decor, and there's the rare treat of a rooftop plunge pool. Doubles from €109 (Dh438), including breakfast.
Lesar Hotel Angel in Gornji Trg is one of a growing number of small boutique hotels with luxurious touches. Its elegant rooms mix modern with traditional, and there's a cosy courtyard garden. Doubles from €180 (Dh723), including breakfast.
On busy Slovenska cesta, all is peaceful at Hotel Cubo – its light, airy rooms are in a clean modern style. Doubles from €160 (Dh658), including breakfast.
Find your feet
The medieval Ljubljana Castle looms over the old town on the eastern bank of the Ljublanica River, where three narrow cobbled squares – Ciril-Metodov Trg, Mestni Trg and Stari Trg – flow into each other.
At the northern end you’ll see the distinctive Triple Bridge, another of the many Secessionist landmarks designed by Ljubjlana native Jože Plecnik in the early 20th century.
Between the bridge and the Central Market – which includes an indoor fish market as well as a vast outdoor space – is the tourist office (www.visitljubljana.com; www.slovenia.info).
Cross the river for more Baroque loveliness, including the historic Philharmonic Hall and many of the city’s cultural institutions. Keep heading west for the sprawling lushness of the Tivoli Gardens, a favourite place for bike rides and picnics.
Meet the locals
The riverside bars are a good place to start. On the eastern bank is Tozd (00386 4069 9453) with a funky retro theme. For early evening happy hour, join the lively crowd along Petkovskovo nabrezje by the Butchers’ Bridge near the Central Market. In the Trnovo district in the southern part of the city, check out the lively cafes and restaurants along Eipprova ulica.
Book a table
Chef Janez Bratovž's JB Restaurant is simply one of the best in the city. It's located in a 1920s building near the railway station, where he comes up with innovative dishes packed with delicious flavours such as beef carpaccio with aubergine and butternut squash (€12.50 [Dh51]).
The views are as superb as the food at Strelec Restaurant in what used to be the archer's tower in the castle. Choose the shaded terrace or the atmospheric brick interior for a tasting menu from €42 (Dh173). Dishes include incredibly succulent oxtail with truffles.
Hearty Slovenian cuisine is served in the warm interior or cute courtyard garden at Špajza Restaurant. Save room for the horse fillet with truffles for €24 (Dh99).
For a quick and simple lunch, check out the food vans by the Central Market. Big plates of freshly grilled fish cost as little as €5 (Dh21).
Shopper’s paradise
Mestni Trg and Stari Trg are full of one-off boutiques as well as a smattering of souvenir shops. One souvenir worth picking up is Piran salt, the sea salt harvested from Slovenia's tiny bit of the Adriatic coast. Piranske Soline sells beautifully presented sea-salt gifts, including bars of dark chocolate with fleur de sel.
What to avoid
The old town is pedestrianised, so taxis can go only so far. If you’re not travelling light, you can call Kavalir (00386 3166 6331), and a cheery man with a golf buggy will come and collect you and your luggage for free.
Don’t miss
Climb the 95 steps of the 19th-century Outlook Tower at the castle. It’s a bit of a hike, but the views of the city and the surrounding countryside are worth the effort.
Go there
A return flight with Fly Dubai to Zagreb costs from Dh1,120 including taxes, and take five-and-a-half hours. Buses to Ljubljana take two-and-a-half hours and cost from €18 (Dh75) return. Air Serbia flies from Abu Dhabi to Ljubljana via Belgrade from Dh2,305 return including taxes.
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