Audacious, colourful and innovative, London Collections Men, which wrapped up on Monday, had a lot on offer. James Gabrillo handpicks his favourite looks from the four-day fashion event, which focuses on British talent
HATS OFF TO YMC
Who knew bucket hats could look this dapper? At the YMC show, the relaxed silhouettes were topped off, literally, by handsome woven cotton hats featuring subtle microprints. Expect this trend to trickle down to your favourite high-street stores such as H&M and Zara.
REAL SLIM SHADY
Looks like the traditional British bespoke shirt shop Turnbull & Asser has decided to go hip this season. Its models sported spunky sunnies of all shapes, including this square-frame acetate and metal pair – an inventive twist on a classic design.
TAKE IT FROM THE TOP
The presentation of Topman Design – the high-end line from the popular British retailer – was a tale of two collections. The opening looks featured clean tailoring and subdued colours. Our favourite was a denim-on-denim look that was a tad bit oversized – it’s a look that could be worn in laid-back workplaces or while relaxing at the weekend. Meanwhile, the show’s second half was an extravaganza of texture, print and colour. Standouts include the suede jackets, fur coats and a shiny mustard suit that would take guts to pull off away from the catwalk.
READY TO RUMBLE
Knitwear label Sibling’s latest offerings were inspired by the feisty sport of boxing – and the collection was a knockout. The dress robes were sensational: useful both as loungewear and as unconventional cardigans.
TINKER TAILOR
Richard James proved why he’s one of Savile Row’s most reliable tailors. Specialising in contemporary wear, he tweaks the classics without ruining their allure. Just look at his masterful mixing and matching of print and texture – which can be pulled off by any man of any age.
DOG, NEW TRICKS
The young Swedish brand CMMN delivered wardrobe staples fused with a progressive point of view. Take this turtleneck jumper, which was keenly cut to stand out, all the while remaining stylishly understated. Designers Saif Bakir and Emma Hedlund say they draw inspiration from the verve of youth subcultures and the elegance of heritage design.
BACK IN THE GAME
Hold up, when did Coach suddenly become so cool? Seems like Stuart Vevers, who was hired by the luxury American company to revive its brand, has found his stride, sending out one snazzy look after another. Unsurprisingly, the highlights were the leather bags, particularly this colossal backpack that looked so #2016: delicate detailing with a big attitude.
F ITS OWN
Fashion week can’t all be fancy concepts. Trust Dunhill, established in 1893, has stuck to tradition season after season. Its latest looks exuded masculine elegance, but also uncompromising craftsmanship and quality material. We adored the double-breasted jackets that featured exaggerated lapels.
ONE LOOK TO RULE THEM ALL
Our top pick for best look of the week came from Hardy Amies: the ensemble comprises a crisp white shirt worn with a blue knit jumper and a navy suit, finished off with a striped wool coat – clean but striking, novel without being frivolous. Best of all, it’s easy to replicate at your own convenience.
THE FORCE AWAKENS
Northern Irish designer J W Anderson catapulted to fame after showcasing an ingenious accessories collection in 2008. How apt that eight years later, he returned to his accessory roots by dressing his models in transparent neck pieces with a metallic dotted pattern. Such a unique aesthetic was evident in his clothing, too, which featured silhouettes that cross-pollinated elements from menswear and womenswear. He’s a true new-generation designer worth looking out for.
AGE AGAINST THE MACHINE
Oliver Spencer says he’s inspired by the world of art and architecture. True enough, his offerings evoked architectural lines and old-school construction. His garments, favoured by several English actors and musicians of varying ages, are tailored to perfection without appearing uptight. Also: the show featured the week’s most
KEEP A SHARP LOOK OUT
Agape Mdumulla and Sam Cotton, the minds behind the super-hot London label Agi & Sam, are fashion’s current bright young things. These two ensembles from their new collection give a glimpse of their fresh stance – their brazen, almost slapdash, layering of textured garments has got us psyched for what’s to come.
COLD COMFORT
For more audacious gents, there’s plenty of inspiration in Astrid Andersen’s confident use of colour in garments, which she dubs as “premium casualwear”. Whatever they’re called, we just love how they look oh so comfortable.
UNITED COLOURS
Four men who consistently brought their A game to the front rows of this week's shows: Chinese actor Hu Bing, English model David Gandy, British GQ editor Dylan Jones and – our pick as the most stylish celebrity today – rapper Tinie Tempah, in a dashing royal-blue coat that looked great with his well-trimmed whiskers.
IT’S A WRAP
Contemporary label KTZ, which first opened as a hybrid music and fashion store in London’s Soho district in 1996, is all about urban edge. Indeed there was a raw energy that fuelled its latest line, which designer Marjan Pejoski says aims to contrast elements of modernity and the ancestral, anarchy and severity, spectacle and depth. The wraparound coats were simply breathtaking. Kudos for casting those twins, too.
LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT
Tommy Hilfiger is still at it at 64. At a dinner party he hosted to celebrate the week’s shows, the venerable American designer posed with his favourite models, all of whom were nattily dressed head-to-toe in Hilfiger, of course.
DON’T SWEAT IT!
The best jumpers came from Pringle of Scotland, the iconic label founded in 1815 at the birthplace of the Scottish knitwear industry. Earlier this week the brand offered a deconstruction of their signature argyle pattern, abstracted for a modern-gent’s wardrobe. The resulting heritage weaves
PLAY IT COOL
Margaret Howell’s boys were the coolest kids on the block. Mostly donned in navy blue ensembles, they looked polished yet approachable – the kind of mood you want your clothes to evoke.
THE FINE PRINT
Not sold on the glitter eye make-up, but James Long’s prints and patterns were the most original we’ve seen this season.
BEST MODEL
This dude came out of nowhere and appeared in multiple shows this season, pulling off everything from formal to streetwear. We appreciate how he looks like an ordinary chap, which make the clothes look more appealing to the everyday customer. Also, he has no time to fix his hair. Models! They’re just like us. (Not.)
BEST COLOUR
The 50 shades of mustard from rising design duo Baartmans and Siegel gave us a hint of the direction they’re likely taking in the future: from a small, home-grown London label to a premium global brand focusing on wearable luxury.
BEST MASH-UP
At the Cottweiler show: fur and plastic – who knew?
BEST DISPLAY
At Gieves & Hawkes, the models stood like sculptures in a gallery. They were dressed in a classic gentleman’s wardrobe, a reminder that if designers go too cuckoo with their creations, heritage tailoring and craftsmanship could become relics of the past.
BEST HAIR
The messy mops from the Alexander McQueen show were a refreshing departure from the flat, combed-down, shiny dos that have been all the rage.
artslife@thenational.ae
