Five favourites from Day 1 of London Fashion Week - in pictures

Getty Images

Getty Images

Getty Images

Getty Images

Fyodor Golan

Fyodor Podgorny and Golan Frydman clearly have fun designing. You see it in the joyful way they manipulate their distinct textiles and 3D embroidery. In their often inspiring, sometimes confounding, colour combinations. In their newest collection’s exceptional embracing of diverse themes: there’s neon, floral, metallic, plastic, prints, ruffles and even fringes. But Fyodor Golan are at their best when they balance the bizarre with clean geometric silhouettes, as in the best look from their latest line: a boxy, sleeveless shirt-dress (with a great collar) matched unexpectedly with a flowing skirt.

Eudon Choi

There was just something so cool – so on-point – about Eudon Choi’s latest collection, which he says was inspired by the fantastical paintings of Victorian artist John Anster Fitzgerald. Presenting ethereal cloaks and separates that featured elaborate pleats and folds, the Korean designer drew on his menswear background to showcase clean tailoring and an eye for detail. The standout was a midnight-blue top-and-skirt combo (with drawstrings) that looked both delicate and off-kilter.

Jean-Pierre Braganza

Titled “Whiplashed”, the British-born Canadian designer’s collection was all about breezy draping and subtle deconstruction. Our favourite little number was a trench coat thrown over a satin dress, whose structured architectural panels Braganza brazenly left to hang loose. Executed with finesse, the clothes kept close to the body’s contours, evoking a frenetic yet structured spirit. The look may have been in all-white, but dark glamour was all over it.

J. JS Lee

Jackie Lee had the honour – and burden – of opening London Fashion Week. And what a premiere it was. Her structured tailoring, fluid silhouettes and pops of colour announced a terrific young voice in fashion (Lee only graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2010). A fascinating pink dress displayed her original point of view: a no-fuss top matched with a gently rippling bottom that featured pleating – call it sleek restraint. Other standouts included striped silk separates that looked like super-plush (and super-cosy) pyjamas.

Daks

Seems like every designer this season has a simple shirt-and-skirt combo to offer, perhaps a reaction to the outrageous fashion we’ve been seeing in recent years. The luxury British label Daks gave us our favourite version, featuring a low-key floral blouse and a subdued high-waisted skirt. Look closer to appreciate the thoughtful detailing, like the well-placed buttons and a peekaboo one-sided trouser. Such confident ease is a welcome new direction for fashion.

For more of our London Fashion Week coverage see our All Dressed Up blog here