Bistro Des Arts, the French cafe on the Dubai Marina Promenade, is one of the few places I genuinely feel like I’m somewhere far away from the hustle and bustle of Dubai.
When you step inside this bistro, you could easily believe you are in Paris. We arrive midweek during the slow, hot summer season and it is surprisingly busy – not uncomfortably crowded, but vibrant and spirited. We are greeted warmly and efficiently. There is a roomy terrace overlooking the promenade – prime real estate in the cooler months – but we choose a small table inside.
The interior conveys classic French bistro in the best possible way. It is welcoming and unfussy – this is not French fine dining. Small tables are scattered around the room, surrounding one wooden farmhouse table in the centre. The small bar opposite the kitchen is a nice focal point.
Street scenes of France adorn the walls, and French music plays just loud enough to enjoy, but not too loud to prevent whiling away the evening with relaxed conversation.
It’s casual, comfortable and cosy – exactly the kind of place you would want in your neighbourhood.
The staff are welcoming, knowledgeable and attentive – and they are savvy enough to never interrupt the flow of conversation at our table. One of the owners is there – but he’s working, not watching. He fills his night chatting with guests, taking orders, serving food and clearing plates. This is a rarity in Dubai and his presence – and the fact that he’s working alongside his staff – somehow makes the cafe feel warmer, more inviting and friendlier.
We start with a pissaladière and sea bream carpaccio. The authentic pissaladière is layered with flavour. The flat, thick tart is packed to the edges with caramelised onions and topped with black olives and a hint of anchovies. The owner tells us the chef goes easy on the anchovies to please the palates of Dubai diners. Even so, I found the anchovy taste a bit overwhelming.
To be fair, pissaladière gets its name from words that literally translate as “salted fish”, so I am done complaining.
We love the sea bream carpaccio. It’s light and refreshing, with thin slices of sea bream delicately paired with capers, olive oil, lemon, parsley and coriander.
The French head chef here is clearly well-versed in his craft. Our mains are bursting with flavour and we devour them too fast. The parrillada de la mer is presented as one large skewer of mixed seafood, which includes salmon, sea bream, scallops, a giant prawn and more. It is served in a – too small – pool of classic vierge sauce: olive oil, lemon juice, tomato and basil. We wanted more of it. The slightly charred barbecued vegetables that accompany the skewer are excellent.
The coquelet roti (roasted baby chicken) we order is served as a whole baby chicken sitting neatly next to a pile of French fries and a mound of salad greens.
What it lacks in presentation, it makes up for in taste. The chicken is tender, juicy and well-seasoned. I eat the first couple of bites before I notice the tarragon jus that comes with it. This beautiful, deep-brown sauce is rich and hearty with impressive depth of flavour. Trust me when I say this is good enough to drink by itself (it is also tasty poured over the fries).
There is a long list of classic French desserts on offer to round out our meal. I feared the mains would be a tough act to follow – and I was right. The desserts are well-executed but they’re not as memorable as the rest of the meal.
The cafe’s signature moelleux Toblerone (aka chocolate fondant) did not, surprisingly, taste much like the beloved chocolate that is in the name. There are hazelnuts enveloped in the cake and a single triangle of Toblerone is perched atop a side of ice cream. It is good but not great.
We like the strawberry tartelette better. The firm pastry is covered with a thin layer of silky-smooth custard, along with light, fluffy homemade whipped cream and a handful of halved strawberries. It is tasty, but if you are going to skip a course here, skip the desserts – the mains and starters are superior.
Bistro Des Arts has brought a slice of Paris to Dubai and the two men who came up with the concept (both from France) have plenty to be proud of. The price is right, the ambience is warm and inviting and the chefs know what they’re doing with classic French fare. If you have not been, this bistro deserves to be near the top of your list of places to try in Dubai.
• Our meal for two at Bistro Des Arts, Dubai Marina Promenade, cost Dh428. For more information, call 04 551 1576. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito
sjohnson@thenational.ae
