DIYARBAKIR, TURKEY // Walking through the main streets of Diyarbakir’s Sur district – one of the world’s great walled cities – there is a facade of normality. A line of shoeshiners wait for customers, men in winter coats drink dark tea at outdoor cafes, shoppers gaze into the windows of jewellery shops.
But things are far from normal here. Government forces only declared an end to months of intense combat operations targeting Kurdish militants in Sur on March 9. A curfew put in place in December – lifted only for brief periods for civilians to flee the fighting – has been eased in recent weeks, though much of the district remains locked down.
Checkpoints manned by heavily armed police officers are positioned at the gates of the Old City and throughout Sur’s main thoroughfares. Sandbagged positions guard intersections. Access to the eastern side of the oval-shaped Old City is cut off by barricades as it remains under a 24-hour curfew, with no civilians allowed to go in or out. Dump trucks haul rubble away from the quarter.
Turning down the Old City’s twisting alleyways reveals homes shattered by improvised explosive devices planted by Kurdish rebels ambushing Turkish security forces, evidence of fierce gun battles, and doors kicked open in house-to-house fighting. Climbing on to rooftops to peer into neighbourhoods that have not been cleared yet, one can see buildings broken by artillery fire.
“The Turkish government used big weapons – the kinds of weapons that can only be used between two countries fighting each other,” said Ihsan Seviktek, 45, a shopkeeper from an area of Sur still under curfew. “It was a massacre. We were forced to leave. We had to leave, otherwise we would have been killed as well.”
Sur is just a small glimpse of the wider war in Kurdish-majority south-east Turkey, where Kurdish militants affiliated with the Kurdistan Workers’ Party, the PKK, have been battling government forces since July when the group broke a two-and-a-half year ceasefire.
The PKK and its allies say they are fighting for autonomy or independence in Kurdish-majority parts of Turkey – areas where many people feel they have long been mistreated and oppressed by the government because of their ethnicity and cultural identity. The militants have only been emboldened by the massive gains toward autonomy made by the PKK’s sister organisation in Syria, the YPG.
The Turkish government maintains that Kurdish citizens are granted equal rights and that the war is merely a terrorism problem, frequently equating the PKK with ISIL. In January, Turkish president Recep Tayyip Erdogan reasserted that there is no Kurdish issue in Turkey, only a terrorism problem.
As the war gets older, it is hardening positions on both sides, with the government increasingly lumping the most popular pro-Kurdish political party in with “terrorists” and leaving Kurds in the country’s south-east even more distrustful of the state and increasingly radicalised in their beliefs.
With combat operations recently declared over in Diyarbakir and the town of Cizre, on the border with Syria, the government is now turning its attention to forcing militants out of other areas of Turkey’s south-east such as Nusaybin, Sirnak and Yuksekova. As some of the displaced in Diyarbakir begin returning to their homes, new refugees from the latest front lines are arriving in the city.
PODCAST: Turkey-PKK conflict – The war noone’s talking about
According to a tally by the International Crisis Group, 350 members of Turkey’s security services have been killed in eight months of fighting – with 140 dying this year alone. At least 250 civilians have been killed. Hundreds of thousands have been displaced. And according to the Turkish government, “thousands” of PKK militants have been killed since the conflict began in Turkey and northern Iraq – where the PKK maintains bases in the Qandil mountains.
One of those thousands killed was Mr Seviktek’s brother, Mesud, a bespectacled 24-year-old fighter with the PKK-affiliated YDG-H militia in Diyarbakir’s Sur district.
Mr Seviktek decided to flee Sur along with other family members during a short lifting of the curfew on December 17, but his brother Mesud stayed behind to fight. He was killed six days later.
Mr Seviktek said Mesud’s body was left lying in the streets for more than a month as the family was denied permission to recover it. When the body was finally delivered to a morgue, Mr Seviktek said there were so many bullet holes in it that he believes Turkish security forces took pot shots at it as it lay in the street.
He did not challenge his brother’s decision to join the militia early last year.
“Because there are no human rights, I could not refuse him, I could not stop him, I could not tell him not to do it,” he said. “On the contrary, I was even kind of proud of him because there is a pressure that is unjust in Turkey ... If he didn’t join the PKK he would have been in prison.”
In poorer areas of the south-eastern Turkey, many know somebody who is a fighter or has been in jail. Like Mr Seviktek, his brother Mesud spent several years in jail for activism, an incarceration that he viewed as unjust and pushed him to join the rebellion.
War and displacement are common themes in Mr Seviktek’s life. When he was 22 years old and living with his family in a village outside the town of Lice, north-east of Diyarbakir, Turkish troops one day rounded up the village residents and burnt the settlement to the ground. Mr Seviktek spent more than three years in prison because of his political activism with a Kurdish political party, he says, but denies ever being a militant. However, he has a son and another brother who have both joined Kurdish forces fighting in Syria.
“We’re not going to stop struggling until the end, until our last drop of blood,” he said.
The militias like the one Mesud belonged to did not stand much of a chance against Turkey’s well armed police force and military. They fought tanks, armoured vehicles and helicopter gunships with assault rifles, improvised explosive devices and rocket-propelled grenades.
Nowruz
With celebrations for the Nowruz spring festival banned elsewhere by Turkish authorities this year, Diyarbakir hosted the country’s only authorised festivities on Monday in a field on the city’s south-western edge. To get in, thousands upon thousands of revellers waited at tense, corralled checkpoints as police – some with hand grenades stuffed in their pockets – barked orders and searched them one by one.
Nowruz marks the Iranian new year, but for Kurds, it is also steeped in a mythology of the Kurdish people winning freedom from an evil Assyrian king thousands of years ago. Banned in Turkey until 2005, Nowruz has been seized by Kurdish nationalists as an opportunity to express Kurdish identity.
In the days leading up to the festival rumours swirled in Diyarbakir that ISIL suicide bombers were set to attack the celebrations. Others feared a resumption of battles in the city or that the government would send riot police to disperse the event. Attendees said the celebrations were much smaller than in previous years.
“They [the Turkish government] scared people about suicide bombers so they wouldn’t come, but the brave and those who wanted peace came,” said a woman in her 50s named Fatima, who had been forced from Diyarbakir’s Baglar district by the fighting.
“For us, Nowruz is a struggle, it is freedom. It is a tradition that has gone on for 2,500 years,” said a 28-year-old architect named Metin.
Inside the Nowruz site, a sea of people waved flags of the PKK and of the Syrian-Kurdish YPG militia and banners bearing the face of PKK founder Abdullah Ocalan beneath an enormous burning ceremonial torch that towered into the sky.
On the main stage, giant video screens broadcast footage of Kurdish militants carrying rocket-propelled grenades and rifles through the war-ravaged streets of south-eastern Turkish cities as well as images of Ocalan. Every so often, Turkish fighter jets would roar overhead, flying out from Diyarbakir’s air base to bomb PKK positions in northern Iraq and Turkey’s border areas.
Selahattin Demirtas, co-leader of the pro-Kurdish People’s Democratic Party (HDP) took to the stage and called for peace talks.
“If they [the Turkish government] want to achieve a result by crushing with war and violence, bringing people to their knees, this will only bring chaos to our country,” he said, according to Reuters.
The Turkish government’s ruling AK Party has increasingly attacked the HDP, saying it has links to the PKK. After deadly suicide bombings carried out by an extremist Kurdish faction in Ankara, Mr Erdogan has pushed for parliament to widen the definition of terrorism and lift immunity for parliamentarians to allow them to face terrorism charges.
Requests by The National for interviews with AK Party officials in Diyarbakir were unsuccessful.
The HDP officially denies links to the PKK and has continually called for peace. But the party cannot entirely escape the weight and importance of militancy to the Kurdish movement in the south-east of Turkey. In HDP offices, portraits of Ocalan hang on the walls. And the HDP organised this year’s Nowruz festivities in Diyarbakir, which featured imagery of militancy broadcast to the crowd.
“The people, the mothers and fathers whose children were killed, massacred and died in the struggles, these are the voters of HDP,” said Nesih Guldekin, vice president of the HDP in Dyarbakir. “HDP cannot ignore this.”
Despite the HDP’s calls for peace and even calls by Ocalan for the PKK to lay down arms last year, many in south-east Turkey continue to see armed struggle as the only way forward.
Rising extremism
The months of sieges, battles and killing have only fomented militant ideology among many here.
In February and March, the Kurdistan Freedom Falcons, or TAK – a group that is said to have splintered from the PKK – claimed two large suicide car bombings in Ankara that killed 66 people. The attack on February 17 targeted military buses, while the March 13 attack carried out by a female suicide bomber targeted civilians.
The PKK is considered a terrorist organisation by Turkey and a number of countries in the world, including the United States. And the group has been known for periods of ruthlessness in its history: killing its own members, turning its guns on dissenters in Kurdish areas and assassinating traffic police. But in the most recent bout of fighting, the group has prided itself on only attacking military and police forces and avoiding civilian casualties.
But TAK is different. The group is extremist, unapologetically ruthless, and effective in its killing. It has adopted the kind of car bombings against civilian populations made familiar in the region by ISIL and Al Qaeda, absorbing them into its secular, nationalistic cause.
And despite TAK’s willingness to target civilians, the group is popular here.
“We support TAK,” said Jehat, a 24-year-old man attending the Nowruz festivities in Diyarbakir. He had recently fled fighting in his hometown of Yuksekova on Turkey’s border with Iran. “What TAK does is giving a voice to the massacres in the Kurdish areas” and giving a taste of violence to Turkey’s usually calm areas, he argued.
“The state is not following the rules of ethical war. They are not fighting. They are massacring.”
Ahmed, a man in Sur who works near the zone of the district still closed off by the military, smiled when asked what he thought about TAK.
“They say they are taking revenge, so I do not blame them,” said Ahmed. “The majority of people here support them. There are people who will sacrifice themselves easily for them.”
The pro-Kurdish HDP has condemned TAK’s attacks, but has faced criticism from the government after one of its deputies offered condolences to the family of a TAK suicide bomber and the party failed to back a parliamentary condemnation of the bombings.
Mr Guldeken, the HDP official in Diyarbakir, said TAK was following the wrong path, but that given the circumstances in south-eastern Turkey, its message and tactics are likely appealing to many here.
“After all these massacres, how can you control the youth? These youth are in such a mental state after these massacres that anything is possible. As you can see, they want to die,” he said. “We are against this message ... [but] it’s not us who can stop this war, it’s the government.”
Though the violence of the past eight months has already cost Turkey’s Kurds so much, many still feel the violence will continue and could even bring political change.
“During the curfews, thousands and thousands of teenagers ... went to the mountain for their education,” said Ahmed, referring to PKK training camps.
“And I’m sure they will come back someday.”
jwood@thenational.ae
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At a glance
Global events: Much of the UK’s economic woes were blamed on “increased global uncertainty”, which can be interpreted as the economic impact of the Ukraine war and the uncertainty over Donald Trump’s tariffs.
Growth forecasts: Cut for 2025 from 2 per cent to 1 per cent. The OBR watchdog also estimated inflation will average 3.2 per cent this year
Welfare: Universal credit health element cut by 50 per cent and frozen for new claimants, building on cuts to the disability and incapacity bill set out earlier this month
Spending cuts: Overall day-to day-spending across government cut by £6.1bn in 2029-30
Tax evasion: Steps to crack down on tax evasion to raise “£6.5bn per year” for the public purse
Defence: New high-tech weaponry, upgrading HM Naval Base in Portsmouth
Housing: Housebuilding to reach its highest in 40 years, with planning reforms helping generate an extra £3.4bn for public finances
In numbers: China in Dubai
The number of Chinese people living in Dubai: An estimated 200,000
Number of Chinese people in International City: Almost 50,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2018/19: 120,000
Daily visitors to Dragon Mart in 2010: 20,000
Percentage increase in visitors in eight years: 500 per cent
The White Lotus: Season three
Creator: Mike White
Starring: Walton Goggins, Jason Isaacs, Natasha Rothwell
Rating: 4.5/5
The specs
Engine: 2.0-litre 4-cyl, 48V hybrid
Transmission: eight-speed automatic
Power: 325bhp
Torque: 450Nm
Price: Dh359,000
On sale: now
How to get there
Emirates (www.emirates.com) flies directly to Hanoi, Vietnam, with fares starting from around Dh2,725 return, while Etihad (www.etihad.com) fares cost about Dh2,213 return with a stop. Chuong is 25 kilometres south of Hanoi.
Company%20Profile
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HER%20FIRST%20PALESTINIAN
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The specs
Engine: 3.0-litre 6-cyl turbo
Power: 374hp at 5,500-6,500rpm
Torque: 500Nm from 1,900-5,000rpm
Transmission: 8-speed auto
Fuel consumption: 8.5L/100km
Price: from Dh285,000
On sale: from January 2022
The Bio
Favourite vegetable: “I really like the taste of the beetroot, the potatoes and the eggplant we are producing.”
Holiday destination: “I like Paris very much, it’s a city very close to my heart.”
Book: “Das Kapital, by Karl Marx. I am not a communist, but there are a lot of lessons for the capitalist system, if you let it get out of control, and humanity.”
Musician: “I like very much Fairuz, the Lebanese singer, and the other is Umm Kulthum. Fairuz is for listening to in the morning, Umm Kulthum for the night.”
RESULTS
2pm: Maiden Dh 60,000 (Dirt) 1,400m. Winner: Masaali, Pat Dobbs (jockey), Doug Watson (trainer).
2.30pm: Handicap Dh 76,000 (D) 1,400m. Winner: Almoreb, Dane O’Neill, Ali Rashid Al Raihe.
3pm: Handicap Dh 64,000 (D) 1,200m. Winner: Imprison, Fabrice Veron, Rashed Bouresly.
3.30pm: Shadwell Farm Conditions Dh 100,000 (D) 1,000m. Winner: Raahy, Adrie de Vries, Jaber Ramadhan.
4pm: Maiden Dh 60,000 (D) 1,000m. Winner: Cross The Ocean, Richard Mullen, Satish Seemar.
4.30pm: Handicap 64,000 (D) 1,950m. Winner: Sa’Ada, Fernando Jara, Ahmad bin Harmash.
Real estate tokenisation project
Dubai launched the pilot phase of its real estate tokenisation project last month.
The initiative focuses on converting real estate assets into digital tokens recorded on blockchain technology and helps in streamlining the process of buying, selling and investing, the Dubai Land Department said.
Dubai’s real estate tokenisation market is projected to reach Dh60 billion ($16.33 billion) by 2033, representing 7 per cent of the emirate’s total property transactions, according to the DLD.
What is graphene?
Graphene is extracted from graphite and is made up of pure carbon.
It is 200 times more resistant than steel and five times lighter than aluminum.
It conducts electricity better than any other material at room temperature.
It is thought that graphene could boost the useful life of batteries by 10 per cent.
Graphene can also detect cancer cells in the early stages of the disease.
The material was first discovered when Andre Geim and Konstantin Novoselov were 'playing' with graphite at the University of Manchester in 2004.
Spider-Man%202
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More from Neighbourhood Watch:
The rules on fostering in the UAE
A foster couple or family must:
- be Muslim, Emirati and be residing in the UAE
- not be younger than 25 years old
- not have been convicted of offences or crimes involving moral turpitude
- be free of infectious diseases or psychological and mental disorders
- have the ability to support its members and the foster child financially
- undertake to treat and raise the child in a proper manner and take care of his or her health and well-being
- A single, divorced or widowed Muslim Emirati female, residing in the UAE may apply to foster a child if she is at least 30 years old and able to support the child financially
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Kumulus Water
Started: 2021
Founders: Iheb Triki and Mohamed Ali Abid
Based: Tunisia
Sector: Water technology
Number of staff: 22
Investment raised: $4 million
The alternatives
• Founded in 2014, Telr is a payment aggregator and gateway with an office in Silicon Oasis. It’s e-commerce entry plan costs Dh349 monthly (plus VAT). QR codes direct customers to an online payment page and merchants can generate payments through messaging apps.
• Business Bay’s Pallapay claims 40,000-plus active merchants who can invoice customers and receive payment by card. Fees range from 1.99 per cent plus Dh1 per transaction depending on payment method and location, such as online or via UAE mobile.
• Tap started in May 2013 in Kuwait, allowing Middle East businesses to bill, accept, receive and make payments online “easier, faster and smoother” via goSell and goCollect. It supports more than 10,000 merchants. Monthly fees range from US$65-100, plus card charges of 2.75-3.75 per cent and Dh1.2 per sale.
• 2checkout’s “all-in-one payment gateway and merchant account” accepts payments in 200-plus markets for 2.4-3.9 per cent, plus a Dh1.2-Dh1.8 currency conversion charge. The US provider processes online shop and mobile transactions and has 17,000-plus active digital commerce users.
• PayPal is probably the best-known online goods payment method - usually used for eBay purchases - but can be used to receive funds, providing everyone’s signed up. Costs from 2.9 per cent plus Dh1.2 per transaction.
The bio
Job: Coder, website designer and chief executive, Trinet solutions
School: Year 8 pupil at Elite English School in Abu Hail, Deira
Role Models: Mark Zuckerberg and Elon Musk
Dream City: San Francisco
Hometown: Dubai
City of birth: Thiruvilla, Kerala
COMPANY PROFILE
Name: Qyubic
Started: October 2023
Founder: Namrata Raina
Based: Dubai
Sector: E-commerce
Current number of staff: 10
Investment stage: Pre-seed
Initial investment: Undisclosed
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Test
Director: S Sashikanth
Cast: Nayanthara, Siddharth, Meera Jasmine, R Madhavan
Star rating: 2/5
COMPANY%20PROFILE
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Mountain%20Boy
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Mercer, the investment consulting arm of US services company Marsh & McLennan, expects its wealth division to at least double its assets under management (AUM) in the Middle East as wealth in the region continues to grow despite economic headwinds, a company official said.
Mercer Wealth, which globally has $160 billion in AUM, plans to boost its AUM in the region to $2-$3bn in the next 2-3 years from the present $1bn, said Yasir AbuShaban, a Dubai-based principal with Mercer Wealth.
“Within the next two to three years, we are looking at reaching $2 to $3 billion as a conservative estimate and we do see an opportunity to do so,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Mercer does not directly make investments, but allocates clients’ money they have discretion to, to professional asset managers. They also provide advice to clients.
“We have buying power. We can negotiate on their (client’s) behalf with asset managers to provide them lower fees than they otherwise would have to get on their own,” he added.
Mercer Wealth’s clients include sovereign wealth funds, family offices, and insurance companies among others.
From its office in Dubai, Mercer also looks after Africa, India and Turkey, where they also see opportunity for growth.
Wealth creation in Middle East and Africa (MEA) grew 8.5 per cent to $8.1 trillion last year from $7.5tn in 2015, higher than last year’s global average of 6 per cent and the second-highest growth in a region after Asia-Pacific which grew 9.9 per cent, according to consultancy Boston Consulting Group (BCG). In the region, where wealth grew just 1.9 per cent in 2015 compared with 2014, a pickup in oil prices has helped in wealth generation.
BCG is forecasting MEA wealth will rise to $12tn by 2021, growing at an annual average of 8 per cent.
Drivers of wealth generation in the region will be split evenly between new wealth creation and growth of performance of existing assets, according to BCG.
Another general trend in the region is clients’ looking for a comprehensive approach to investing, according to Mr AbuShaban.
“Institutional investors or some of the families are seeing a slowdown in the available capital they have to invest and in that sense they are looking at optimizing the way they manage their portfolios and making sure they are not investing haphazardly and different parts of their investment are working together,” said Mr AbuShaban.
Some clients also have a higher appetite for risk, given the low interest-rate environment that does not provide enough yield for some institutional investors. These clients are keen to invest in illiquid assets, such as private equity and infrastructure.
“What we have seen is a desire for higher returns in what has been a low-return environment specifically in various fixed income or bonds,” he said.
“In this environment, we have seen a de facto increase in the risk that clients are taking in things like illiquid investments, private equity investments, infrastructure and private debt, those kind of investments were higher illiquidity results in incrementally higher returns.”
The Abu Dhabi Investment Authority, one of the largest sovereign wealth funds, said in its 2016 report that has gradually increased its exposure in direct private equity and private credit transactions, mainly in Asian markets and especially in China and India. The authority’s private equity department focused on structured equities owing to “their defensive characteristics.”
THE BIO
Bio Box
Role Model: Sheikh Zayed, God bless his soul
Favorite book: Zayed Biography of the leader
Favorite quote: To be or not to be, that is the question, from William Shakespeare's Hamlet
Favorite food: seafood
Favorite place to travel: Lebanon
Favorite movie: Braveheart
The specs
Engine: 1.5-litre turbo
Power: 181hp
Torque: 230Nm
Transmission: 6-speed automatic
Starting price: Dh79,000
On sale: Now
INFO
What: DP World Tour Championship
When: November 21-24
Where: Jumeirah Golf Estates, Dubai
Tickets: www.ticketmaster.ae.
COMPANY%20PROFILE%20
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Tori Amos
Native Invader
Decca
Five hymns the crowds can join in
Papal Mass will begin at 10.30am at the Zayed Sports City Stadium on Tuesday
Some 17 hymns will be sung by a 120-strong UAE choir
Five hymns will be rehearsed with crowds on Tuesday morning before the Pope arrives at stadium
‘Christ be our Light’ as the entrance song
‘All that I am’ for the offertory or during the symbolic offering of gifts at the altar
‘Make me a Channel of your Peace’ and ‘Soul of my Saviour’ for the communion
‘Tell out my Soul’ as the final hymn after the blessings from the Pope
The choir will also sing the hymn ‘Legions of Heaven’ in Arabic as ‘Assakiroo Sama’
There are 15 Arabic speakers from Syria, Lebanon and Jordan in the choir that comprises residents from the Philippines, India, France, Italy, America, Netherlands, Armenia and Indonesia
The choir will be accompanied by a brass ensemble and an organ
They will practice for the first time at the stadium on the eve of the public mass on Monday evening
Zayed Sustainability Prize
In numbers: PKK’s money network in Europe
Germany: PKK collectors typically bring in $18 million in cash a year – amount has trebled since 2010
Revolutionary tax: Investigators say about $2 million a year raised from ‘tax collection’ around Marseille
Extortion: Gunman convicted in 2023 of demanding $10,000 from Kurdish businessman in Stockholm
Drug trade: PKK income claimed by Turkish anti-drugs force in 2024 to be as high as $500 million a year
Denmark: PKK one of two terrorist groups along with Iranian separatists ASMLA to raise “two-digit million amounts”
Contributions: Hundreds of euros expected from typical Kurdish families and thousands from business owners
TV channel: Kurdish Roj TV accounts frozen and went bankrupt after Denmark fined it more than $1 million over PKK links in 2013
Company profile
Name: Tharb
Started: December 2016
Founder: Eisa Alsubousi
Based: Abu Dhabi
Sector: Luxury leather goods
Initial investment: Dh150,000 from personal savings
Skewed figures
In the village of Mevagissey in southwest England the housing stock has doubled in the last century while the number of residents is half the historic high. The village's Neighbourhood Development Plan states that 26% of homes are holiday retreats. Prices are high, averaging around £300,000, £50,000 more than the Cornish average of £250,000. The local average wage is £15,458.
Specs
Engine: Duel electric motors
Power: 659hp
Torque: 1075Nm
On sale: Available for pre-order now
Price: On request
Scores
Bournemouth 0-4 Liverpool
Arsenal 1-0 Huddersfield Town
Burnley 1-0 Brighton
Manchester United 4-1 Fulham
West Ham 3-2 Crystal Palace
Saturday fixtures:
Chelsea v Manchester City, 9.30pm (UAE)
Leicester City v Tottenham Hotspur, 11.45pm (UAE)