• Until a year ago, residents could cross from one side of Aleppo to the other through a checkpoint at Bustan al-Qasr. But because of snipers, it was closed.
    Until a year ago, residents could cross from one side of Aleppo to the other through a checkpoint at Bustan al-Qasr. But because of snipers, it was closed.
  • Syrians carry belongings at a bus station. After working for 10 days straight in a regime-held neighbourhood, Abu Asaad, 45, waits for the bus at a station in the New Aleppo district to go home to Shaar, a rebel area just five kilometres away.
    Syrians carry belongings at a bus station. After working for 10 days straight in a regime-held neighbourhood, Abu Asaad, 45, waits for the bus at a station in the New Aleppo district to go home to Shaar, a rebel area just five kilometres away.
  • To get there the bus must first cross an area that is under army control, before reaching a desert zone that has become a no-man’s land over the course of the more than three-year-old war.
    To get there the bus must first cross an area that is under army control, before reaching a desert zone that has become a no-man’s land over the course of the more than three-year-old war.
  • He and other passengers then risk their lives as their bus drives through Al-Bab, an area of Aleppo province that is controlled by ISIL. From there, the bus travels back into Aleppo city.
    He and other passengers then risk their lives as their bus drives through Al-Bab, an area of Aleppo province that is controlled by ISIL. From there, the bus travels back into Aleppo city.
  • Before we reach the ISIL checkpoint, women climb into the back of the bus and veil their faces completely,” said bus driver Mohammad, who makes the risky journey three times a month.
    Before we reach the ISIL checkpoint, women climb into the back of the bus and veil their faces completely,” said bus driver Mohammad, who makes the risky journey three times a month.
  • For Abu Asaad, each journey is now a dive into the unknown. “A jihadist from Daesh gets on the bus, armed with a sword rather than a Kalashnikov,” he said, using the Arabic for ISIL.
    For Abu Asaad, each journey is now a dive into the unknown. “A jihadist from Daesh gets on the bus, armed with a sword rather than a Kalashnikov,” he said, using the Arabic for ISIL.
  • “They are not allowed to travel alone, according to the laws imposed by the jihadists. So we must make sure they are accompanied by their husband or brother. I check carefully, because I will pay the price if anything goes wrong,”
    “They are not allowed to travel alone, according to the laws imposed by the jihadists. So we must make sure they are accompanied by their husband or brother. I check carefully, because I will pay the price if anything goes wrong,”
  • A minibus leaves. About 800 people make the journey each day from the regime side, while roughly the same number leave from the rebel area, said Munir, who runs the bus station.
    A minibus leaves. About 800 people make the journey each day from the regime side, while roughly the same number leave from the rebel area, said Munir, who runs the bus station.

A bus ride through war-torn Aleppo — in pictures


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A front line slices through Syria’s former economic hub from north to south. It used to take 10 minutes to cross Aleppo, now through huge detours, the journey takes 10 hours. All photos by Joseph Eid / AFP Photo