Life goes on in Jerusalem's religious institutions, despite the war in Gaza. Thomas Helm / The National
Life goes on in Jerusalem's religious institutions, despite the war in Gaza. Thomas Helm / The National
Life goes on in Jerusalem's religious institutions, despite the war in Gaza. Thomas Helm / The National
Life goes on in Jerusalem's religious institutions, despite the war in Gaza. Thomas Helm / The National

Armenians in the Holy Land welcome vital reinforcements in troubled times


Thomas Helm
  • English
  • Arabic

Only a small inner door in the grand entrance to the Armenian Patriarchate in Jerusalem was open on Friday.

The larger cast-iron gateway that normally welcomes tourists and pilgrims towards the Cathedral of St James remained shut since October 7, when the Holy Land was thrown into turmoil after Hamas launched an unprecedented attack in Israel’s south.

Authorities and the military went into high alert, Palestinians and Israelis restricted their movement and foreign tourists were told by their governments to avoid the region.

Some visitors have stayed, such as Margaret Chevian, a former librarian from Rhode Island, who came to the Armenian Patriarchate for three months to help it organise its sprawling collection of books.

A portrait in the palace of Jerusalem's Armenian Patriarch. Photo: Thomas Helm / The National
A portrait in the palace of Jerusalem's Armenian Patriarch. Photo: Thomas Helm / The National

“Should I stay or should I go?” Ms Chevian asks.

"My family and friends back in the US are saying 'come home', because it’s not safe here.

“My friends here in the Old City of Jerusalem are telling me to stay, 'Jerusalem is the safest place to be'.

“So far, I've opted to stay and I do feel safe.”

One group staying steadfast is the clergy. It cannot abandon one of the most important religious institutions for Armenians. The community has had a presence in Jerusalem since the seventh century AD.

“Jerusalem is one of the main centres of the Armenian church,” says George Hintlian, a historian and long-time pillar of the Armenian community in the Holy Land.

The Patriarch is in charge of Armenian communities in the Middle East.

Armenian officials wind down a ceremony to welcome two new bishops. Photo: Thomas Helm / The National
Armenian officials wind down a ceremony to welcome two new bishops. Photo: Thomas Helm / The National

“In places like Lebanon, Syria and Jerusalem, you have to spend most of your time dealing with local politics – adjusting to changing situations,” he says.

The Armenians know they must do the same in the weeks, possibly months of conflict ahead.

On Tuesday, in a small, early-morning ceremony in which Irish coffee was distributed generously, they welcomed two new bishops, vital reinforcements for the struggling community.

They will help bolster the spiritual vitality of the institution. But they also need to boost numbers in a more secular sense.

The remit of one of the new bishops includes managing the community's vast property portfolio, both inside the Old City and out.

It has been targeted by illegal Israeli settlers in recent years. The Armenians are currently battling the most dangerous and complex threat yet. Settlers are trying to obtain the community’s only car park and surrounding land. Corruption among some of the clergy paved the way for the attempt.

Armenians say without the car park, their community will die. Residents will lose their mobility and pupils at the school will have nowhere to be dropped off. All for a paltry hotel lease deal that would leave the already wealthy community with very meagre financial gains, if any.

Holy Land Christians have been facing mounting difficulties in recent years. Photo: Patriarchate of Jerusalem
Holy Land Christians have been facing mounting difficulties in recent years. Photo: Patriarchate of Jerusalem

War in the Holy Land only makes their struggle harder.

Fortunately, Mr Hintlian thinks highly of the bishop with this important job.

“The Israeli context, to put it conservatively, is very dynamic – you have to take new policies into your daily life,” he says.

But with reinforcements and a community that is committed to its survival, Mr Hintlian still manages to be optimistic.

“There has never been a period in our presence when we did not have to manage crises,” he says.

“Vigilance is now part of our spiritual duties.”

Pharaoh's curse

British aristocrat Lord Carnarvon, who funded the expedition to find the Tutankhamun tomb, died in a Cairo hotel four months after the crypt was opened.
He had been in poor health for many years after a car crash, and a mosquito bite made worse by a shaving cut led to blood poisoning and pneumonia.
Reports at the time said Lord Carnarvon suffered from “pain as the inflammation affected the nasal passages and eyes”.
Decades later, scientists contended he had died of aspergillosis after inhaling spores of the fungus aspergillus in the tomb, which can lie dormant for months. The fact several others who entered were also found dead withiin a short time led to the myth of the curse.

Some of Darwish's last words

"They see their tomorrows slipping out of their reach. And though it seems to them that everything outside this reality is heaven, yet they do not want to go to that heaven. They stay, because they are afflicted with hope." - Mahmoud Darwish, to attendees of the Palestine Festival of Literature, 2008

His life in brief: Born in a village near Galilee, he lived in exile for most of his life and started writing poetry after high school. He was arrested several times by Israel for what were deemed to be inciteful poems. Most of his work focused on the love and yearning for his homeland, and he was regarded the Palestinian poet of resistance. Over the course of his life, he published more than 30 poetry collections and books of prose, with his work translated into more than 20 languages. Many of his poems were set to music by Arab composers, most significantly Marcel Khalife. Darwish died on August 9, 2008 after undergoing heart surgery in the United States. He was later buried in Ramallah where a shrine was erected in his honour.

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Updated: October 20, 2023, 6:00 PM