Postcard from Gaza: Writing on the wall speaks of love and revolution

City's streets display striking artwork, romantic messages and political updates

Bilal Khaled in front of an example of his graffiti on a wall at Alazhar University in Gaza City. All photos: Nagham Mohanna for The National

Graffiti in Gaza City congratulating bridegroom Ali

Bilal Khaled in front an example of his graffiti at Alazhar University in Gaza City

Calligrapher Abdullah Herz, 24, creating congratulatory artwork in Gaza City

Gaza City street art

Abdullah Herz working on a congratulatory message

An example of writing on a wall

'Gaza love life' by an artist from the city

Neighbourhood graffiti in Gaza City expresses congratulations for the bridegroom Ali

Bilal Khaled and artwork at Alazhar University in Gaza City

Those who walk through Gaza's streets cannot avoid looking up at the walls and seeing the striking messages they carry.

For decades, political groups have used walls in Gaza to keep citizens up to date on their actions.

Now those same walls carry striking artwork and romantic messages as well as political updates.

They convey the anger, revolution, love and happiness felt by the city's residents.

“The residents of Gaza use the walls as a tool to express their feelings and political affiliation,” Bilal Khaled, a Palestinian artist and Arabic calligraphist who specialises in graffiti, told The National.

Khaled, whose work focuses on refugees and marginalised groups, has his work on display in galleries in cities including Istanbul and Doha. His graffiti adorns street walls in Gaza, Lebanon and as far away as South Africa.

“Since I was a child, I opened my eyes seeing the writing on walls of camps,” he said. “Seeing masked people write on walls enhances me to be an artist.”

Calligrapher Abdullah Herz, 24, writes on a wall in Gaza city. Nagham Mohanna for The National

“They used to write revolutionary phrases and graffiti on the walls, so I saw them as if they were Superman if he was masked and unknown.”

During the First Intifada, which started in 1987, political groups in the Gaza Strip and West Bank began writing updates on the walls.

But he said some people seen writing on walls, or found in possession of a spray can, were arrested by Israeli forces.

“The walls of Gaza bear witness to the resilience of a people who refuse to be silenced. They provide a platform for unheard voices,” Khaled said.

Wael Al Qaid, 43, wrote on those walls from the age of 10. He was known for his beautiful handwriting.

He told The National: “I started to write on walls during the First Intifada to tell neighbourhood residents the news that political groups want to spread because there were no social media at that time and that was the safest way to spread the news.

“For example, to declare a general strike or write some revolutionary slogans to encourage the people to resist the Israeli occupation.”

Messages on the walls of Gaza City range from the revolutionary to the romantic. Nagham Mohanna for The National

Al Qaid still writes on walls with messages of congratulations for weddings, returning pilgrims from Saudi Arabia, the release of detainees and others.

He said writing on walls became a tradition after a groom with striking penmanship wrote a message for his new bride.

In Gaza's Al Remal neighbourhood, Ali Hassouna, 27, was two days away from his wedding when he asked calligrapher Abdullah Herz, 24, to write messages of congratulation on walls in the city.

Now, Hassouna's name is written on the wall in red, decorated with flowers and hearts. Many in the neighbourhood come to congratulate him after the artwork caught their eye.

“It is one of the [most beautiful] ways to celebrate a wedding,” Hassouna said.

Herz said he started writing on walls six years ago.

“I was fascinated by calligraphers who wrote on the walls of our neighbourhood, so I developed my skills,” he said. “Walls become archives, capturing the struggle, resilience and stories of the people who call Gaza home.”