Having opened last summer as One&Only’s first resort in Europe, the ultra-luxury One&Only Portonovi on Boka Bay offers Riviera-style living in one of the most picturesque locations in Montenegro.
With Venetian-style architecture and a cutting-edge wellness centre, the resort is gearing up for a busy second summer season. The National checked in to see what travellers can expect at the upmarket retreat.
The welcome
Landing at Tivat Airport after a near six-hour flight with flydubai, we’re met by a driver in a sleek black car. Less than 10 minutes later, we're on an open-air ferry crossing an expanse of cobalt water with views of forest-covered hills and terracotta-topped houses. On the other side, a 15-minute drive takes us to the Portonovi luxury lifestyle development and the One&Only resort.
We're ushered inside, past an understated exterior, where a sleek glass-surrounded lobby with floor-to-ceiling windows looks out to a terrace with breathtaking views over Boka Bay and the rolling mountains. A welcome beverage accompanies check-in formalities in the marble-clad lobby where there is a soothing water fountain, grand piano and oversized glass chandelier.
The neighbourhood
Surrounded by alpine-like cliffs that plummet down into a narrow inlet of vivid blue water, the hotel has 113 guest rooms and suites, all of which are positioned to make the most of the natural vistas.
Guests can arrive via road or by boat, because the hotel has its own marina, and when it comes to sightseeing, this is best done via the sun-sparkled waters of Boka Bay. The One&Only Portonovi makes sure you’ll do so in style — via mahogany-clad, Bond-esque speedboats. Off course, if you’re more of a road-trip aficionado, there’s plenty to explore with the ancient towns of Herceg Novi, Kotor and Perast near by.
Part of the Portonovi luxury lifestyle development, there are also residences, shops, cafes, bars and a 238-berth superyacht marina within walking distance.
The room
We’re in a ground floor Portonovi room with a private terrace opening on to the hotel's blooming gardens. Cutting across the grass — something that’s not frowned upon but instead encouraged — takes us to the water in one direction, and to the restaurants, beaches and spa in the other. Much like Montenegro itself, the room is one of the most visually interesting spots that we’ve stayed in, with something to discover on every plane. There are shelves lined with books, board games and unique ornaments, plus a cylindrical fireplace that lights up at the touch of a button and inspired by the country's traditional love of fireplaces.
The bathroom is a showstopper — with his and hers sinks on opposite sides of the room, a chaise longue and a huge soaking tub by the window that doubles as a cushion-covered daybed. A spacious wooden terrace has a double sun lounger perfect for watching the sunrise, and also where we take shelter from morning rain showers, which end as quickly as they come and leave behind a bright fresh canvas.
The scene
Spread across 60 acres and modelled on Venetian-style palaces of the region, the resort has monastic architecture, terracotta red roofs and pretty internal courtyards. With secluded private pools, a fitness suite, KidsOnly and One Tribe for the younger guests and a private beach and jetty, there's something for everyone.
It's also home to Chenot Espace, a cutting-edge facility from the Swiss wellness experts offering treatments designed to enhance guests’ vitality and health. We spot several guests wandering around the public spaces in fluffy white robes, a sure sign that they are here on a detox or rejuvenating programme. Hotel guests are also welcome to book any of the facility’s therapies, and to make use of the stunning thermal-bath-style indoor swimming pool — one of the largest in the country.
The food
Led by executive chef Nancy Kinchela, it offers culinary options including refined Italian dishes at Sabia, Asian fusion dining at Tapasake and farm-to-table fresh Montenegrin cuisine at La Veranda.
Tapasake Club is the resort's high-end Japanese fusion spot that's part beach club, part restaurant and part bar. By day, it's the perfect spot to lounge by the pool and there's an in-water swing, private cabanas and sunset DJ performances. The menu consists of Japanese inspired tapas-style dishes with everything from sushi, sashimi and ceviche to fresh salads, tempura and small plates.
Highlights include the tuna tacos served with yuzu and green chilli ($15), tangy sea bass and coconut milk ceviche ($17) and the well-presented Chilean sea bass with lime ponzu ($40). Finish with a green-tea creme brulee ($15) to end things on a high note.
Sabia serves southern Italian dishes and diners can opt to sit by the ocean. On our first evening, we're seated by the beach here and swoon over the pink-tinged sunset views accompanied by a local Montenegrin musical duo, with the music really helping to bring a sense of authenticity to the experience.
The service
Typical for One&Only, the service is one of the key distinctions for ensuring we have a memorable trip. Everyone we meet is knowledgeable and friendly. Montenegro as a country has been through several hardships and all the locals we meet seem genuinely pleased that the resort has opened, bringing new jobs and tourism dollars to the region.
Highs and lows
We love the convertible bathtub/day bed overlooking the working fireplace in our room, truly a peaceful place to sit and watch the night sky fill with stars. The resort’s endless views of cobalt-blue inlets and rolling hills are also perfection from every viewpoint. The only low we can think of is that we did not get to stay longer.
The insider tip
There are lots of bookable experiences designed to get guests out exploring the Unesco World Heritage site of Boka Bay and its surrounds. Discover monasteries hidden in caves, mythical citadels, the world's oldest olive tree and black mountain peaks, just a few of the treasures awaiting in this Adriatic country.
The verdict
Portonovi is one of the most luxurious seaside hotels we've been lucky enough to visit, and its stunning accommodation, perfect service and upmarket eateries elevate the level of luxury available in this tiny Balkan country. Sightseeing through the Bay of Kotor on one of the hotel's Bond-style boats is as close as many of us will come to feeling like we're truly living the high life, one for the bucket list.
The bottom line
Rates from €495 ($533) excluding taxes; oneandonlyresorts.com. Check-in is from 3pm and checkout is at noon, but this is flexible where possible.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel during the global coronavirus pandemic. It reflects hotel standards during this time, services may change in the future.
