The cool, coffee-covered hills of Coorg have long been a favourite escape from Bengaluru, the southern Indian tech hub formerly known as Bangalore. About five hours away by road, the region in Karnataka is known for its lush forests, vast plantations and slower pace of life.
The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary sits comfortably within this landscape, and the first thing you notice on arrival is just how much space there is. While most luxury resorts squeeze villas, restaurants and swimming pools into a few carefully landscaped acres, The Leela sprawls across an entire hillside, making you feel less like you have checked into a hotel and more like you have temporarily acquired a small plantation in Coorg – which, come to think of it, is something of an Indian dream.
Spread across 30 hectares, the property began life as a coffee plantation and has wisely resisted the temptation to manicure away its origins. Robusta and Arabica coffee plants, pepper vines, fruiting fig trees and towering silver oaks still punctuate the landscape. Malabar parakeets and barbets flit through the trees, while the occasional Malabar giant flying squirrel makes a dramatic appearance overhead. It is easy to see why The Leela Palaces, Hotels and Resorts calls its latest offering a “sanctuary”.
The opening comes as The Leela marks its 40th anniversary. A brand known for its polished resorts and palace hotels – and a favourite destination for the big fat Indian wedding – takes a somewhat different approach in Coorg, putting nature and wellness at the heart of the guest experience.
The welcome
The hotel sends a BMW 5 Series to collect me from Bengaluru, a pleasant bonus given the traffic on Indian roads. As we drive into Coorg, the road gradually ascends into the ancient Western Ghats. The air cools, the landscape grows lush and mist settles over the valleys. By the time I arrive, city life feels like a distant memory.
Indian hospitality rarely believes in understated arrivals, and The Leela follows the template. Five people appear to welcome me, all smiles and hovering care. A young woman in a sari sprinkles water from the sacred Kaveri river; another offers a garland made of coffee beans and cardamom pods. The soaring bamboo lobby reminds me of both a Zaha Hadid and Balinese design aesthetic.
In short order, I am assigned a butler, Manisha, a pleasant and brisk 26-year-old who takes care of my needs for the next three days.
An electric golf cart is the preferred mode of transportation, and I soon discover why. The property is large but its red-brick buildings are tucked into the landscape. The downside is the terrain. My villa is in the valley; the lobby is almost at the summit. Walking between the two could count as cardio, not that I ever choose this option.
The neighbourhood
The resort is near Madikeri in the heart of Coorg, or Kodagu as it is known locally. This is coffee country, with forested hills, waterfalls and a distinctive Kodava culture.
One morning, we drive for about 90 minutes to Talakaveri, regarded as the source of the Kaveri river. The road winds through misty hills to the river’s birthplace, a place of considerable beauty and religious significance. Standing there, I finally understand why nearly every girl I have met from Coorg is named Kaveri.
The room
The property is entirely villa-based, with sizes ranging from 80 square metres to 930 square metres for the presidential villa. I stay in the Forestlight Luxury Villa which, at 300 square metres, is larger than the Manhattan apartment I once owned.
I enter through a blue door into an open veranda and al fresco dining area, complete with a Gaggia coffee machine. Outside is a private infinity pool, heated pool and hot tub, along with two massage tables and a hammock.
Inside, a king-size bed opens on to the veranda. The generous bathroom has indoor and outdoor showers, his-and-her sinks and a separate dressing area with luggage storage and a safe.
The scene
Secluded resorts have one perennial problem: how to keep guests entertained without making them feel they are at summer camp. This Leela sanctuary has plenty of answers.
Guests can kayak on the lake, try catch-and-release fishing or visit the petting zone, where cows, goats, horses, rabbits, turkeys and, somewhat incongruously, emus share space. On rainy afternoons, a games area offers carrom, chess, table tennis, foosball, pool and a giant carrom board made with Pakistani marble.
As a birdwatcher, I also enjoy a morning walk with resident naturalist Emmanuel, who introduces me to some of the property's blue birds, butterflies, trees, mushrooms and spices.
The service
Service is one of The Leela’s strengths. Staff seem encouraged to anticipate rather than merely respond. Manisha unpacks my bag, prepares a cheese platter, and ferries me around the property for spa and yoga appointments. Restaurant waitstaff remember my preferences, and offer choices and alternatives.
The naturalists are eager to share their love for the land and its non-human inhabitants. Even the staff who cart me around in the golf buggies are solicitous. The guest experience co-ordinator, Yashmita, puts together an itinerary that is both inclusive and flexible, important for a resort that emphasises relaxation.
The wellness
Aujasya by The Leela Spa occupies 2,500 square metres and combines Ayurveda with contemporary treatments, fitness facilities and relaxation areas.
On my first day, I try the Turkish hammam – this is the only resort in the region to have one – where two therapists massage, polish and exfoliate my skin as I lie on a heated marble table. I emerge feeling squeaky clean and, dare I say it, a few grams lighter.
The following day brings an Ayurvedic shirodhara by the serene Ruby. After an oil massage, warm oil is streamed over my forehead and head for about 20 minutes. It is blissfully relaxing, particularly for restless minds.
The food
Luma, the all-day dining restaurant, is spacious and serves excellent regional and international food, with live counters offering Japanese, Middle Eastern, Indian, European and pan-Asian dishes. Try the Coorg dishes for a taste of the region.
Zen serves beautifully plated pan-Asian food in a garden setting. The desserts with Japanese Nama chocolate are elegant. Here, too, the waitstaff point out ingredients and details in a way that elevates the experience.
The Cellar serves excellent mocktails using local herbs and spices.
At 92 Degrees, the property's coffee lounge and library, guests can explore the bean-to-cup journey and learn more about Coorg's coffee heritage, a great way to connect to the spirit of the place.
The verdict
The Leela Coorg Forest Sanctuary combines spacious villas with warm, attentive service and an extensive range of activities and wellness experiences. Its greatest luxury, however, is that it offers time and space for guests to disconnect from the city without compromising on comfort. For travellers seeking a nature-led luxury escape in South India, it makes a persuasive case.
The bottom line
Villa rates start from $580 per night, including 18 per cent tax. Check-in is from 2pm and check-out is at 11am.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future
