Don't visit Delhi in December. At least, that was the advice I was given by well-meaning friends and colleagues as I shared plans for my two-week adventure through their homeland.
Not because they weren't excited for me to see Humayun's Tomb and Qutb Minar, or eager to share their favourite shops in Khan Market, but because Delhi is well known for its pollution problem in winter. My Indian confidants just wanted me to really see what the capital of their beautiful country has to offer.
Alas, it was too late. The ticket was booked. Since I'd be spending more time indoors than I'd originally imagined, a hotel that offers a glimpse of India's rich heritage and a taste of its traditional cuisine was a necessity. Here's why I chose Leela Palace New Delhi.
The welcome
The welcome begins at the airport, when I spot a Leela-branded card bearing my name being held up. On the 30-minute drive to the hotel, in the city’s Diplomatic Enclave, I chat to my driver. His hometown is Rishikesh, where I've just travelled from, so we compare the mountain air and quiet lifestyle with city life and tooting horns.
Much of that buzz fades as we turn into Leela Palace. I’m warmly greeted by several staff members while my suitcases are removed from the boot to be scanned with magnetometers. This is the norm in Delhi, I’m later told.
I’m introduced to Navdeep, a kind woman who will be my butler for my two-night stay. It's a service that initially feels unnecessary for my solo visit, but I soon come to appreciate our conversations and Navdeep's recommendations.
I hand over my passport without even walking to the check-in desk, making the transition from car to lobby to room seamless.
The room
I head up to the seventh floor to my Royal Premier Room, which lives up to its name. Flashes of gold, cadmium yellow, mahogany and ethereal blue set the tone for an opulent yet relaxing space.
The spacious room (592sq ft) contains a giant bed with a grand headboard, a sofa and a coffee table (the latter bearing chocolate and dates for my arrival), a desk and chair, and generous wardrobe space. Beneath the television is an impressive tea collection.
The bathroom is also spacious, with a shower and a bath, and the toiletries feature the hotel's signature lotus scent. I mention to Navdeep that I love the aroma, and she surprises me later in the trip by leaving a gift bag containing the room spray in my suite.
The scene
Some hotels have art that is barely noticeable, let alone memorable, but Leela Palace is an exhibition in its own right.
This experience begins before you set foot through the doors. The building itself demands attention. Its boxy Lutyens-inspired design stands tall above the surrounding trees. Inside, it aims to recreate the style of pre-colonial palaces and forts, despite the building only dating from 2011.
“We also have lots of bling, as you've noticed. Lots of gold and silver,” says Gautami Raju, a professor at Jindal School of Liberal Arts and Humanities and my guide as we tour the art on display in the hotel.
The hotel owners are collectors and connoisseurs, she tells me. No piece or its placement is a happy accident. “There are lots of gods, kind of scattered everywhere,” says Ms Raju, as we pass a shimmering sculpture of the eagle-like god Garuda with Lord Vishnu, whom he's said to protect. “Powerful deities are placed right at the entrance, providing protection to anyone entering the hotel.”
Works by many well-known Indian artists – some commissioned, some acquired – are on display. They includes goddesses painted by Jayasri Burman, Cubist works by Paresh Maity, mythical depictions by Seema Kohli, and sculptures by the late Satish Gujral on display in the club lounge.
My favourite is in a collection of paintings by Shipra Bhattacharya that hang in the spa. Her pieces show women facing away from the viewer's gaze, their backs holding entire worlds of inner desires.
I admire these as I head to the spa for a 75-minute aromatherapy massage (8,000 rupees, or Dh306). I skip the rooftop pool because of the dusty weather, but it's undeniably scenic, overlooking the city.
Down in the gardens, I catch the evening ritual: a classical Indian dance performance as the sun sets, which is made more beautiful by the 11ft Devi sculpture in the background.
The food
Dining is a playground at Leela Palace New Delhi. My first stop is Le Cirque. The decor is both chic and playful. Classy dark wood and marble tabletops are enlivened by colourful circus-themed paintings.
I work my way through a vegetable garden salad complete with crunchy vegetables, fried walnuts, and a mint sorbet (1,550 rupees); a salt-baked Portobello mushroom with truffle foam (Rs2,150 rupees); and a raspberry sorbet, which arrives shrouded in dry ice.
One evening, dinner is spent exploring Chef Krungthong's Thai Tasting Menu at The Qube. I tuck into a five-course experience at a kitchen-side table. Every dish is full of flavour and presented with precision. Breakfast is also served at The Qube, where I develop a taste for dosas with green and coconut chutneys.
The standout meal is at Jamavar, the hotel’s signature restaurant that takes its name from the intricate 16th-century Kashmiri shawl.
Ensuring I sample as many dishes as possible, the chefs put together a vegan thali. Silver lids lift to reveal colourful and fragrant delights. Dishes include Indian curry with assorted vegetables, rich spinach tempered with aromatic garlic, tender okra served with water chestnuts, potatoes stirred with cumin seeds and yellow lentils with garlic, and a traditional Indian salad. All to be enjoyed with gucchi pulao rice, rich naan bread and poppadoms. I slowly indulge, making the most of every mouthful as I watch groups of guests revel in sharing dishes and anecdotes.
The neighbourhood
Given I'm not a diplomat, it might seem a little curious that I opted to stay in Chanakyapuri's Diplomatic Enclave. Although it has been home to foreign embassies and diplomatic residences since the 1950s, it does have tourist attractions.
Also, it's a quiet and safe area of the city, especially for solo female travellers. There are parks and markets nearby, as well as sites such as the National Rail Museum and Safdarjung's Tomb. However, I go further afield with the help of a tour guide and driver arranged through the hotel concierge. Due to the weather, I keep a face mask handy when I'm out and about.
The following day, I take a 10-minute taxi to Khan Market and shop for books, jewellery and clothes before stopping for lunch and bakery goods.
The verdict
If I were to visit Delhi again, I would certainly aim for better weather so I can explore more freely.
But smog or not, Leela Palace would be top of my list any time of year. Not only because there's so much for the senses to explore within the 260-room hotel, from food to furnishings, but because the warm service is equally inviting.
The bottom line
Prices start from $290 per night. Check-in is from 2pm and check-out time is noon.
This review was conducted at the invitation of Leela Palace New Delhi, a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts, and reflects standards during this time. Services may change in the future
