Going on safari was on my 2025 vision board – and I got to it just in the nick of time. It wasn't exactly what I had envisioned, however.
Not a single one of the Big Five were in sight. Instead, I found myself Land Rover-ing through rural India, getting a glimpse of how agricultural communities have lived for hundreds of years.
My "village safari", as dubbed by the team at Mihir Garh, was led by Shakti, the luxury resort's manager and my guide for the day. The use of the word safari can feel jarring, but is well intended, inviting people to get to know the less-explored side of life in Rajasthan.
Our first stop is to visit families from the Bishnoi community. Here, I learn how they live from the land. Families within this sect of Hinduism have a deep connection to and respect for nature, and one of the 29 principles they live by prohibits cutting down green trees.
The final stop is watching a local potter at his craft, accepting an invitation to try my hand at the wheel. Throughout the drive, I spot blackbucks in the fields and watch as shepherds herd goats and sheep through dusty roads.
It's a different side of Rajasthan than tourists might usually explore if they've only visited its most famed city, Jaipur. But I was grateful to be granted a glimpse into this side of rural life as I checked into Mihir Garh by Rohet House.
First impressions
After about an hour's drive from sister hotel in Jodhpur, Rohet House, we turn off the narrow lanes, creating tyre tracks in the sandy terrain leading up to Mihir Garh, a sand dune-hued fort standing tall against a desert backdrop.
As I make my way in, I'm greeted by the sound of a drum and harmonium. Flowers cascade from an archway as I walk beneath it. I turn back to see hotel staff on either side on the hotel's crenellated wall, tossing pink petals towards me.
It's here I'm introduced to the guest relationship team, offered a welcome drink as I relax poolside while my luggage is taken to my room, which is one of only nine suites.
The suite
Some suites come with a Jacuzzi, while the others feature a plunge pool overlooking the dunes. Inside my suite, there's a spacious lounge area, with plenty of room for four or five guests to talk over tea. There's a writing desk to my right (complete with postcards picturing the dunes and horses that I send to my nieces), while a changing area and a huge washroom are to my left.
The king bed sits unusually high off the ground (there is even a little step up on either side) with a beautifully detailed carved headboard. There are turquoise throws and cushions, which pop against the dark wood feature wall behind the bed.
Last but not least, I check out the patio. For the next three days, I enjoy reading in my infinity pool overlooking the desert and stables, listening to bird song and even being greeted by peacocks relaxing poolside in the still of the morning.
The scene
Once in my room, I ask for the WiFi password. Shakti laughs; the WiFi name is Dontdothis and the password, Whyamidoingthis?.
Here, the idea is to cut off. This is something Avijit Singh, the property's managing director, tells me himself one evening over tea. "The idea was to give people a sense of belonging and disconnection from the outside world ... to really breathe in the essence of the beautiful countryside."
Sister property Rohet House was once his family home, and after transforming that into a guesthouse, his parents set their sights on creating an escape away from the city. "Their idea was to create something that paid homage to the arts and crafts of rural Rajasthan. Something that blended into the landscape while remaining true to its roots," he tells me, adding that everything on the property is locally sourced.
His personal place of peace is the stables, where the team care for the Marwari horses, a breed indigenous to India. Mihir Garh has been "at the tip of the spear" of the breed's revival in recent years, he says, adding that the suites categories - Alishaan and Shandaar - are named after legendary Marwari stallions.
"I can't really put a finger on the exact words, but the feeling at Mihir Garh is to be far from the rest of the world," he adds.
And I see, or more feel, what he means. The surroundings and their silence are the true scene here. Be it from my suite or down by the stables, every frame eases mental chatter. This is a place to sit back and switch off.
The activities
While the village safari is an enlightening experience exploring the neighbouring villages, there are plenty of activities within the fort walls, too.
I try my hand at an embroidery workshop, which once again confirms my lack of skill for all things fiddly. I did, however, go home with two now-cherished hand-embroidered throws by the experts themselves.
To ease the travel-induced tension in my neck during my stay, I booked an abhyanga Ayurvedic massage (8,000 rupees or Dh320 for 60 minutes). Rather than an extensive spa with all the facilities, Mihir Garh instead has a discreet treatment room tucked away from the pool area. I didn't realise this upon booking, but a masseuse travelled in for the treatment from one of the sister hotels, and only a limited selection from the extensive ayurvedic and traditional spa menu is available.
One sunset was spent enjoying the evening from the rooftop terrace, while another was spent surrounded by horses within the on-site stable, which, of course, hosts a whole equestrian programme that guests can sign up to.
A highlight of my short stay was a dinner in the desert. Under the starry night sky, I'm serenaded by Manganiyar folk musicians and the Terah Taal dancers while I dine on barbecued specialties to start and daal and rice for mains.
The food
One of the joys of travelling around India is the cuisine, and dishes served at Mihir Garh are among the best I ate during my two-week trip.
There is a single kitchen on the grounds that serves breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner – be it on the rooftops or in the desert.
Listing every bite would be arduous, but some standouts include the crispy chaat served with tangy chutney, pickle and toasted sesame, vegetable biryani and dal – a vegan's delight.
The verdict
Whether your primary destination during a trip to India, or a spot for respite during a busy city-filled itinerary, Mihir Garh is worth a visit. If you're looking to genuinely switch off and enjoy screensaver-worthy sunsets, consider this as an option.
Bottom line
Suite rates start from $521, plus taxes. Check-in is from 1pm; check-out is at 11am.
This review was conducted at the invitation of the property and reflects the standards during this time. Services may change in future
