Arriving in Dubai, there's no escaping it: its recognisable architecture is embossed on signage, replicated for souvenirs, and greets passengers on taxi meters departing the airport. There are certainly contenders, but few hotels are as synonymous with a destination as Burj Al Arab is with this city.
For many people in the UAE, the Jumeirah hotel permeates everyday life – towering in isolation above Umm Suqeim Beach, dominating a stretch of the Dubai skyline – yet possessing a sense of untouchable allure. Seven stars, golden cappuccinos, 24-hour butlers … despite some imaginations, this isn't how the average Dubai dweller lives.
Going beyond the lobby doors, The National ventured for a stay at Burj Al Arab to uncover what 'seven-star' luxury means – and has meant – for the past 25 years.
The welcome
While guests can book a Rolls-Royce, Mercedes or BMW airport chauffeur service (fees from Dh600) to begin their vacation experience, my friend and I begin our visit when we cross the small bridge from Jumeirah onto the man-made island that houses Burj Al Arab.
We are greeted with a genuine hello; eye contact is held rather than looking over the shoulder to the next person in line. Suitcases move from trunk to out of sight like a sleight of hand, which is ideal as we walk through the doors to find our attention consumed by plush red and gold carpets and furnishings and a levelled water feature enveloped by aquariums in place of walls.
Stretching my neck to pan the hollowed atrium lobby, I can see every level of this towering hotel. We're offered a cooling lemon-scented flannel, Arabic coffee, and a perfectly sweet date. A few moments later, with check-in formalities complete, we're ready to head to our suite.
The neighbourhood
Staying at this hotel, I feel like I've entered something of a Jumeirah Universe. Main attraction aside, guests at the hotel get entry (and buggy service) to neighbouring properties which includes Jumeirah Al Naseem, with popular restaurants such as Blind Tiger and Rockfish and an adult-only pool. From here, guests can easily access Souk Madinat, with its myriad restaurants, shops and bars, plus the fascinating theatre of digital art.
If visiting with children (or young-at-heart adults), Wild Wadi Waterpark is on your doorstep, and access to Madinat Jumeirah Kids Club is included. Time your stay correctly, and your little one may be able to take part in a turtle sea release.
Step outside the UAE-grown brand's properties to cycle along Umm Suqeim Beach (or explore by foot on the dedicated walking and running track) or visit nearby areas such as Palm Jumeirah, Dubai Marina, Jumeirah Beach Residence and Bluewaters Island.
The suite
With 202 suites on offer, we are staying in the Deluxe Palm option. On the 20th floor, our expectations are already high as far as the view goes, and we're not disappointed – the first hints of sunset glisten over the sea from the floor-to-ceiling windows on each floor, and we feel more like we're floating on a cruise ship surrounded by waters.
But this place is about much more than just a view. It's the grandeur of the furniture and the royal shades. It's how sink-in comfortable the couch is, the dining table for four complete with logo-stamped kitchenware and the perfectly placed home-office desk and chair. There's adequate wardrobe space and a dressing table, and the sea-facing bed is comfortable, as is the chaise lounge and armchair. Given it's a room for two, the abundance of seating options is perhaps unnecessary, even if minimalism was never the aim. Facing the bed is a unit from which a TV appears at the click of a button, and a (second) minibar awaits.
Then there's the bathroom, where full-sized Hermes fragrances welcome guests before they step into a high-power rain shower and a round Jacuzzi bath. Stronger people may have been able to resist the offer of having a butler prepare your Jacuzzi bath in time for your return from dinner, but we couldn't resist.
The two-storey suite's downside? The number of times I wondered, “Where did I put that down?”
The food
With 10 restaurants in total, there is ample choice. The day starts with a morning buffet featuring rows of traditional global dishes and snacks, complemented by an a la carte menu.
Throughout the weekend, the dining service is fantastic and vegan needs are easily accommodated. We lunch on vegan burgers (Dh150) at Sahn Eddar as a live pianist plays and tuck into spinach, artichoke and truffle salad (Dh130) with pool views at Mediterranean restaurant Sal. Dining at L'Olivo at Al Mahara brings delicate renditions of Italian classics to the table as we gaze at marine life swimming in the towering aquarium, and the specially curated eight-course vegan degustation menu at Michelin-star restaurant Al Muntaha wows as we soak in city and sea views from the 27th floor.
We even swing by Les Desserts, where French pasty-chef Tom Coll serves up a must for dessert devotees.
The service
Service lives up to its phantom seven stars (a claim first made by press reviewing the then-newly opened hotel in 1999) above the door. It may surprise some, but it doesn't fall foul of dreaded over-service. Cliche as it sounds, every staff member we interact with, from breakfast chefs to life guards and therapists, eludes warmth and willingness, and it's easy to strike up a conversation if you're in the mood.
Highs and lows
We catch the sunsets on both evenings of our stay, once from the indoor pool connected to Talise Spa and the second time before dining at Al Muntaha. With floor-to-ceiling windows looking over the waters; it's a sight to see and we're glad our itinerary carved out time to take it in.
No real lows to speak of, but if you study the exterior of the hotel closely, you'll quickly notice there are no balconies on this piece of imposing architecture. Which means if any of your party smokes, they have to go from suite to the ground floor outside, which can be a bit of a journey from the Skyview Bar of an evening.
The insider tip
Maximising hotel facilities is a must. In summer, beeline to Sal, the hotel's beach club complete with a saltwater infinity pool. During our pool day experience, we set up camp in a cabana, meaning we had access to a small air-conditioned cabin complete with cold drinks, spare towels, a television and adequate space to unwind.
The verdict
Those favouring minimalism should steer clear; you won't find earthy tones, rustic living or understated comfort, but it's a bucket list stay to many people for a reason.
The bottom line
Suite rates start at Dh3,634 per night, with 20 per cent discount available until September on stays of three or more nights. www.jumeirah.com
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future.
