Discover Baku, Azerbaijan's bustling capital where an ancient city, skyscrapers and cultures combine

Offering a blend of Europe and Asia, the Caucasus country is in the spotlight as it hosts world leaders for Cop29

Blending ancient and modern, the Azerbaijani capital of Baku is the host for Cop29. EPA

Bustling was not the term I used to associate with Azerbaijan's capital city Baku before my trip there, but after spending four days in the Caucasus country, I can't think of any other word to encapsulate my experience.

A small nation geographically, Azerbaijan is bordered by the Caspian Sea to the east, Iran to the south, Armenia to the west and Georgia and Russia to the north. Getting there from the UAE takes a little under three hours, and flight tickets start from a relatively affordable Dh439, flying from Abu Dhabi with Wizz Air.

Upon landing at Heydar Aliyev International Airport, I am welcomed by a sleek modernity that is the perfect introduction to what lies ahead. Designed by Turkish studio Autoban, the country's busiest international airport is clean, bright and airy, featuring natural materials such as wood and stone and designed with a contemporary touch.

Before going to passport control, I collect my visa through one of the many kiosks at the airport. It costs $30. Most nationalities can apply for an e-visa and some others don't need one at all. The immigration process is quick and smooth, and as soon as I step outside of the airport, I get a glimpse of the clean and modern metropolis. Intercity roads are smooth, even reminding me a little bit of Dubai.

Contemporary architecture in Baku. Unsplash / Adil Sattarov

The airport is about 30km away from the city centre, so reaching it takes about 20 minutes, depending on traffic conditions. Taxis are widely available at the airport., There is also the option to take public transport, such as the Aeroexpress bus.

The Fountain Square, a lively plaza filled with tourists and locals, is in the very heart of the city and is the perfect place to people-watch and soak up the city's atmosphere. Dotted around it are several accommodation options, from boutique hotels to five-star properties. Staying close to this spot is a good idea for those who want to sightsee as it's within walking distance of many famous landmarks including the Old City, Nizami Street and Baku Boulevard. I'm staying at The Ritz-Carlton, Baku, conveniently located about 3km away from the square.

East meets west

A cultural mishmash of East and West, Azerbaijan is a mix of modernity and tradition, something that's immediately evident in the city's architecture, which blends eclectic influences that reflect the country's rich history. Islamic architecture is visible in the intricate designs of many places of worship, such as Bibi-Heybat Mosque, a modern structure that's a recreation of the mosque with the same name that was built in the 13th century.

The country also bears the mark of its time as part of the Soviet Union. These Soviet-era buildings are utilitarian and brutalist, with the most striking being Dom Soviet, a huge stone construction topped with small obelisks.

Baku experienced its first oil boom in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, which led to the construction of many grand buildings. Rich oil barons built mansions with European influences, and these are also now a prominent fixture in the city's architectural landscape.

View of the old Baku city in Azerbaijan. Pawan Singh / The National

My first stop is the historic Old City or Icherisheher. A Unesco World Heritage Site, the walled section of the city centre is a captivating labyrinth of narrow winding alleys, ancient buildings and historical landmarks, and wandering through the cobblestone streets feels like stepping back in time.

From old residences featuring wooden balconies with intricate carvings, to structures that highlight skilled stonework, the Old City is something of an aesthetic wonder. Make sure to visit the Maiden Tower and the Palace of the Shirvanshahs.

There are also numerous dining places here, including Qala Divari, which serves Azerbaijani classics. The local food in Baku shares many similarities to dishes in the UAE – with similar spices and ingredients used in Middle Eastern cuisine. Dolma, or stuffed grape leaves, is on offer on almost every local menu, as are kebabs and pilau – a one-pot rice meal made with meat, vegetables, herbs and spices.

Outside the Old City, there's a completely different vibe. Only a few minutes away on foot is the famous Nizami Street, a vast pedestrian and shopping street in downtown Baku. Various outlets, from banks to restaurants and retail stores, dot this 3.5km stretch, which is probably my favourite part of the city thanks to the vibrant and dynamic atmosphere. Filled with tourists and locals, there are plenty of cafes, green spaces and spots to while away the day, and the area is open until late.

The 'land of fire'

Fire holds a special place in Azerbaijani culture and history. The abundance of natural gas reserves in the country has led to the emergence of vents and underground fires. One of the most famous examples is Yanar Dag, or the burning mountain, where a fire blazes continuously from the ground. It's been said that the flames there have been burning for at least 700 years.

The perpetual flames at Yanar Dag. One Carlo Diaz / The National

Because of this, the country also has a long history of fire worship, dating back thousands of years. One of the oldest religions in the world, Zoroastrianism, is believed to have originated in the region that is now modern-day Azerbaijan. There are still fire temples located across the country, including the castle-like Ateshgah, which has become a popular tourist spot.

There are other manifestations of the country's natural gas abundance, too, including its mud volcanoes. The most famous of these are found in Gobustan National Park, about 64km south-west of Baku. The striking cone-shaped formations feature flat craters and contain reserves of oil and hot gas condensate. There are about 300 of them in the park which is also a Unesco World Heritage Site and home to more than 600 ancient rock carvings.

Zaha Hadid architecture and the famous Flame Towers

In downtown Baku, fire is symbolised in the Flame Towers, one of the most recognisable structures in the Azerbaijani capital. At night, it lights up with visual effect projections of flames, waves or the national flag.

My four days in the city is not nearly enough to fully enjoy Azerbaijan's breadth of culture and history, but it is enough to get a taste of the city. Other spots worth checking out include Heydar Aliyev Centre, an architectural masterpiece by renowned Iraqi-British architect Zaha Hadid. The wave-shaped building stands out for its fluid design, with Hadid's signature absence of sharp edges and straight lines.

Heydar Aliyev Centre was designed by the late architect Zahad Hadid. Iltun Huseynli / Unsplash

The Shirvanshah Museum Restaurant which, as its name suggests, is both a museum and restaurant, is also worth visiting. From carpet art to other local crafts, the venue highlights Azerbaijani culture, alongside sumptuous cuisine – the lamb kofta is the best I've ever had.

Top tips for travelling to Baku

The country's currency is Azerbaijani manat. Card payments are accepted in most places, but it's advisable to carry some cash for small purchases.

Based on my experience, it can be a bit difficult to get around if you don't speak the local language, so it's best to have Google Translate at the ready. Residents speak Azerbaijani, which is a Turkic language, so if you speak Turkish, you will be fine. Most locals also speak Russian.

Ride-sharing applications, such as Uber and Bolt, are an alternative to hailing cabs.especially in tourist hotspots. Taxi rides are relatively cheap and most drivers accept card payment.

It is worth checking dress codes and local customs when visiting certain places, such as houses of worship.

Baku experiences hot summers and mild winters and is best visited from late September to November when daytime temperatures range from 20ºC to 25ºC. In winter, temperatures can go as low as 5ºC.