The Queen Elizabeth 2 – better known as the QE2 – was once designated the world’s most luxurious ocean liner, a celebrity magnet that navigated some 1,419 voyages.
Built in 1967, the ship loyally carried out 39 years of service traversing more than six million nautical miles. When the historic vessel retired, it was bought by Dubai developer Nakheel. Having undergone extensive refurbishment, it is now permanently moored in the city’s Port Rashid where travellers can check in for a night or two.
The welcome
On the day we check into the hotel, it’s the coronation of King Charles III and the ship is hosting several themed events for the occasion, meaning it's busy on board.
While waiting, we explore the historical displays surrounding the ship's reception. After formalities are completed, we’re led to our upper deck Captain’s Room via an external lift and an entry platform.
The neighbourhood
Moored in Bur Dubai, the QE2’s watery home puts the ship in an ever-evolving district. In some ways, this is great, as it means there’s something new to see any time you visit, but it also means construction is often visible on the approach roads as apartments are added across the way from the distinctive funnels of the area’s prominent vintage resident.
A handful of modern superyachts flank one side of the QE2, while on the other there’s a strip of restaurants and shops, plus the visible cranes of Dubai’s Maritime City – a mixed-use development and working shipyard.
Given the surrounding construction, the drive to the QE2 isn’t all pretty, but that somehow makes the tall, narrow elegance of this classic cruise liner – which is longer than the Titanic – even more impressive.
The room
At one point, the lowest-priced ticket from London to New York – the QE2’s primary route before transatlantic flights forced then owner Cunard Lines to pivot her as a global voyager – cost the equivalent of three months’ average wage. Thankfully, the same level of rates don’t apply for hotel stays on the ship. Despite this, our Captain’s Room lacks neither luxury, style nor modern touches in its reasonable nightly tariff.
Set off a narrow corridor, ash wood flooring yields to block-pattern beige, grey, brown and blue carpets. Low ceiling downlighters illuminate the dark wood of the room’s wardrobe – containing a safe, mini-fridge and two robes – and the bedside units. The king-size bed faces a flat-screen TV.
Subtle Art Deco vibes come via angled marble-base lamps and a fabric-padded footstool facing one of two dress mirrors. There's a small armchair and a grey two-seat sofa with a coffee table that complements the cabin’s textured teal wallpaper. A generous walk-in, two-head shower and twin circular sinks with mirrors occupy the white marble bathroom.
The raised ceiling height confirms the cabin location as does the step-down balcony – a key original feature with wooden decking and a brace of wooden loungers that’s a prime perch from where to take in the city or waterside views.
The service
Genuine enthusiasm for their surroundings appears rife among many staff we encounter, not least our affable guide on the heritage tour (Dh85 per person). It unlocks numerous fascinating facts and many ship "secrets", including a stop on the defunct bridge.
I don’t find the QE2 the easiest hotel to, ahem, navigate, but thankfully there’s usually a member of staff nearby who's happy to assist.
The scene
The QE2 underwent careful restoration to ensure it was equipped with the comforts and facilities expected from a hotel in 2023. But this was all done with care taken not to bury the nautical stardust that once made the ship a must-have experience for moneyed globetrotters.
These days, 447 rooms and suites are on the inventory, from entry-level cabins at surprisingly competitive rates up to decadent Royal Suites, which have hosted famous faces such as Joan Collins and the late Nelson Mandela. If you’re keen to find out more about the people who have travelled on the QE2, there’s a who’s who-style wall map depicting the celebrities, political figures and other notable passengers who would have enjoyed an on-deck stroll.
Hopefully, they had better navigational skills than I do, as finding my way around proves tricky. On the upside, getting lost reveals areas of the ship still frozen in time or awaiting refurbishment. I stumble across an enclave of decommissioned gaming machines and a huge room with designated cooking areas where dining parties would previously have gathered.
The ship’s museum is called the Travellers’ Cove and recalls the QE2’s origins and adventures via books, photos, uniforms and artefacts. Deep in the hull, a small indoor pool is flanked by Technogym-equipped workout zones.
Elsewhere, beside corridors lined with photographs of the late Queen Elizabeth II, a spacious theatre is the venue for everything from Motown and comedy gigs to family pantomimes.
The food
Once the preserve of first-class passengers, the prestigious Queen’s Grill has been beautifully updated and is the hotel’s premium dining destination. It’s also the spot to partake in an afternoon tea of savoury bites, freshly baked scones and a selection of pastries (Dh175 per person).
Less formal, but also exhibiting hard-to-replicate vintage charm, The Golden Lion – which calls itself Dubai’s oldest bar – excels at pub grub favourites, including a commendable steak and onion sandwich (Dh75)
By stark contrast, Lido restaurant has been given the least sympathetic update, although the bright modernity is tempered at night when an international buffet (starting at Dh140 per person) includes a winning butter chicken and great desserts. It’s also where breakfast (Dh99 per person) is served. In-room dining is also available.
Highs and lows
The sheer novelty of being on board this famous ship is a highlight – and an overnight stay here is different to anything else in the UAE. The only low, if you can call it that, is the ease with which we get lost, although this is hardly a chore when something intriguing appears at almost every turn.
The insider tip
The rule with most hotels is the higher you go, the better the view. On the QE2, it's less about how high you are and more about having a balcony as these inevitably pair best with sea views.
The verdict
Given its history, the QE2 might resonate best with British guests but the mix of travellers on board during our stay suggests the lure of this famous vessel remains multinational. An ideal choice for those looking to diversify a city break, or for UAE residents seeking a unique staycation, although perhaps not the best choice for families with young children.
The bottom line
Rooms from Dh223 ($61) per night – based on a room-only stay in summer, including taxes. Check-in is from 3pm; checkout is at noon; www.qe2.com
This review was conducted at the invitation of the hotel and reflects hotel standards during this time. Services may change in the future
