In his small but vibrant workshop beside Samarkand’s Rukhabad Mausoleum, Mansur Nurillaev often has Christmas on his mind.
A craftsman with a ready smile, his equally cheerful tree ornaments are a hit with visitors to the Uzbek landmark, the resting place of Islamic theologian Sheikh Burhaneddin Sagaradzhi.
“Underneath the paint is dried pumpkin,” Nurillaev says, tapping his knuckles against one of his creations. “Pumpkin is very tough.”
Tourists are greeted with intricate pottery, silk garments, countless festive-themed items — and more pumpkins — at several souvenir shops in this ancient Silk Route city. Particularly along the cobbled street from Siab Bazaar, where you can stop to gulp fresh pomegranate juice or sample moreish khalva sweets.
Both spots are close to the magnificent Bibi-Khanym Mosque, rated by medieval historians as one of Islam’s most architecturally significant structures.
Built in the 15th century and blighted by neglect and earthquakes, it was extensively restored during Uzbekistan’s Soviet era. Visitors can tour the mosque and then enjoy a surprisingly wallet-friendly lunch overlooking its distinctive blue-domed cupolas from Zaragon restaurant next door.
Bibi-Khanym is challenged, however, in both scale and beauty, by the epic Registan Square, a brief walk away. This Unesco World Heritage site and headline act in Samarkand’s generous inventory of architectural treasures is as busy with visitors now as it surely was serving as the venue for royal proclamations — and public executions.
Madrasas that housed Islamic schools frame three sides of the square, recalling the potency of the Timurid Empire that once ruled much of Central Asia. Registan means desert in Persian, but this beguiling site — with Ulugh Beg Madrasa dating back to the 1400s — is anything but sparse. Imposing mosaic arches flanked by towering minarets open into courtyards, tranquil but for bursts of chatter and the occasional souvenir sales pitch.
At night, strategic illumination highlights stunning features that are best viewed from a raised platform positioned at the square’s open side.
Samarkand, and Uzbekistan in general, is a nascent destination for GCC travellers, according to Dmitry Karpov, general manager of Hilton Garden Inn Samarkand. Samarkand’s first internationally-branded hotel, it is well located for accessing major sites, including the beautiful Shah-i-Zinda, as well as the city’s smart new airport, into which flydubai operates daily services from Dubai International.
“Historically, we have not seen many visitors from the UAE, but…we have seen increased inquiries from UAE-based travel agencies and tour operators,” says the head of this bright, alcohol-free hotel. “Many people are excited to see an international brand in Samarkand, a sign of the city’s growth and development as a tourist destination.”
A majority-Muslim population makes Uzbekistan an attractive option for UAE travellers, as does the three-hour flight time, which befits shorter breaks, or longer stays if itineraries include the impressive Bukhara, two hours away by rail.
The country’s main cities offer a fascinating amalgam of Islamic and old Communist influences, from architecture to language — expect to be greeted with “as-salaam-alaikum” (peace be upon you) and thanked with “spasiba” (God save you).
In hotter months, Tashkent appeals to families, with water parks balancing out a rich portfolio of museums and cultural sites. The latter includes the newer but traditionally designed Minor Mosque, a white marble riverside landmark that can be reached on foot and via metro. Featuring several art and sculpture-adorned underground stations, the underground rail network throngs with locals, especially towards Chorsu Bazaar, an immense commercial hub selling seemingly everything.
While there are some tourist stalls, like Cairo’s sprawling El Talbia market, visitor appeal lies largely in witnessing the eclectic bustle of trading. Even the bakery hall with its constant tide of bread is engrossing.
From here, a straightforward walk or taxi ride reaches the Hazrati Imam complex, a historic religious centre oddly popular with kite-flyers and soon to be dwarfed by the adjacent Centre of Islamic Civilisation.
All are on the Tashkent City Tour itinerary, if you crave simpler passage to the likes of the Navoi Theatre, Independence Square, Friendship of People Square or Memorial Complex. Join the tour outside the monolithic Hotel Uzbekistan, also home to a competitive exchange which, like most, prefers US dollars over dirhams.
The striking modern architecture of the Palace of International Forums and State Museum of the Temurids, art and history museums, and Amir Temur Square are also nearby.
If wet weather prevails, there are more museums covering railways, victims of repression, geology, telecoms, Olympic glory and even decorative pumpkins — a seemingly constant thread on any Uzbekistan holiday.
Return flydubai flights to Samarkand start at Dh1,845
