York is one of England's most historic yet buzzing cities

My kind of place: As Yorkshire hosts the first stages of this year’s Tour de France, David Whitley gives his guide to its most historic city.

The Shambles is one of the many quirky streets in York, which is famed for its chocolate and railway industries, plus its Viking history. Britain on View / VisitBritain

Why York?

The layers of history pile on thick in York. Romans, Anglo-Saxons, Vikings and various warring royal claimants have left their mark on a city that, for a long time, was the de-facto capital of the English north. In more recent times, the railway and chocolate industries have given York distinctive stamps, too.

But the city’s not a giant museum piece, sterilised for tour buses and abandoned by modern life. Within the remarkably preserved city walls, there’s the healthy buzz of independent shops and chefs making magic with quality local ingredients. It goes way beyond being merely photogenic, with a picturesque, small-scale manageability.

A comfortable bed

Within the walls, the Cedar Court Grand Hotel and Spa (www.cedarcourtgrand.co.uk, 0044 1904 380038) is the only five-star option. It's an audacious conversion of a former railway company headquarters, where the spa and pool downstairs occupy the former vaults. Plenty of period detail remains among the modern sparkle, and the rooms are far more spacious than most in town. Low-season doubles from £104 (Dh643).

The other place that's a bit special is a short bus ride out of town. Middlethorpe Hall and Spa (www.middlethorpe.com, 0044 1904 641241) is a gloriously traditional, National Trust-owned property, with marvellously welcoming country-house-style service. Doubles from £119 (Dh736).

On a relative budget, there are dozens of B&Bs within a short walking distance of the city walls but, closer in, the contemporary-meets-heritage Goodramgate Apartments (www.goodramgate.co.uk, 0044 1904 211020) offer more space and facilities. Studios from £60 (Dh371).

Find your feet

The almost circular 3.4-kilometre loop along the city walls offers pretty panoramas. Throw in the odd detour, and you can make a day of the circuit. York's Chocolate Story (www.yorkschocolatestory.com, 0044 845 498 9411) gives an entertaining overview of the city's proud chocolate-making heritage, complete with demonstrations, although the big hitter is the Jorvik Viking Centre (www.jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk, 0044 1904 615505). Through mildly hokey "time-travelling" rides, painstakingly reconstructed medieval street scenes and serious archaeological insight, it's a brilliant and authentic romp through York under Viking control in the 9th and 10th centuries. And there's still a slight Scandinavian influence on the city's personality.

The York Castle Museum (www.yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk, 0044 1904 687687) is vastly underrated – covering everything from the English Civil War to the oddly engrossing history of cleaning products with aplomb. And the National Railway Museum's (www.nrm.org.uk, 0044 844 815 3139) top-notch collection – many of the most-famous trains ever made have a home here – goes way beyond trainspotting nerdishness.

Meet the locals

York's a broadly well-heeled city with a large cultural scene for its size. The York Theatre Royal (www.yorktheatreroyal.co.uk, 0044 1904 623568) adeptly straddles the balance between populist and challenging in its programming.

Book a table

There's no shortage of restaurants taking pride in Yorkshire produce, but the Star Inn the City (www.starinnthecity.co.uk, 0044 1904 619208) is the exciting new kid on the block. The architectural combo of glass, modern extension and heritage-listed former engine room works a treat, while the £30 (Dh185) fillet steaks are the splash-out staple on an ever-changing seasonal menu.

Amiably chilled, with sheet music and instruments all over the walls, the music-themed Café Concerto (www.cafeconcerto.biz, 0044 1904 610478) has a slightly boho but chattily local feel. It's strong on veggie options, such as the butternut squash, spinach and blue cheese lasagne for £11.95 (Dh74).

Shopper’s paradise

York has a heart-warmingly strong line in small independent shops with a quirky streak. These tend to cluster on Petergate, Stonegate, Fossgate and the Shambles, though the whole city centre is very much designed for inquisitive mooching. Examples include W Hamond's jewellery store (www.whamond.com, 0044 1904 632059) on the Shambles, which specialises in jet, Yorkshire's signature, black, semi-precious stone. Or The Cat Gallery (www.thecatgallery.co.uk, 0044 1904 631611) on Petergate, which is lovingly stocked with feline gifts such as dancing cat speakers and kitty-shaped pendants.

What to avoid

York is easily walkable and very well connected to the rest of the country by train. Many of the key areas are pedestrianised, so a car is only going to be a nuisance. Hefty fines have been recently introduced for cars crossing the Lendal Bridge during the day. Most GPS systems will try to send you over it.

Don’t miss

York has plenty of old-fashioned tea rooms (think scones and lace doilies), but York Cocoa House (www.yorkcocoahouse.co.uk, 0044 1904 675787) offers something engagingly different. The hot-chocolate recipe goes back centuries and everything in the £12.50 (Dh77) afternoon tea contains chocolate – even the savoury wraps and rarebit slices. It also runs regular truffle-making workshops for those who want to get hands-on.

Getting there

Direct economy return flights from Abu Dhabi to Manchester cost from Dh4,575 with Etihad (www.etihad.com; 02 599 0000). Direct trains to York take less than two hours from Manchester Airport.

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