Why Innsbruck?
Even on an overcast day, it’s hard to find much to mark Innsbruck down on. It’s walkable, but big enough to have plenty of energy. The old town is beautiful, yet doesn’t rest too heavily on its history. Gutsy, defiantly modern architectural projects, such as gleaming glass shopping malls built among the late medieval buildings, show a city not prepared to rest on its laurels.
But when the sun comes out, that likeability turns into something much greater. The mountains shoot straight up from the valley floor around the compact city’s fringes and the ski slopes are in plain sight.
A comfortable bed
The city's historic old dame is the Grand Hotel Europa (www.grandhoteleuropa.at; 0043 512 5931), where many a dignitary has stayed over the years. It has kept the opulent lobby and homely, wood-panelled restaurant, but the rooms have been tastefully modernised and feel surprisingly fresh. Rooms cost from €190 (Dh782).
Playing on the historic side is the Hotel Weisses Kreuz (www.weisseskreuz.at; 0043 512 5947 90), where Mozart and his father stayed in 1769. Rooms are fairly simple, but the period detail, such as the wooden ceilings, and perfect central location in the old town make up for it. Doubles cost from €112 (Dh461).
The newly opened Nala (www.nala-hotel.at; 0043 512 58 4444) is the most fun, though. Each room is wildly different (with some design quirks more impractically outlandish than others), most have balconies, and there's a great roof terrace with ski-jump and mountain views. Doubles cost from €98 (Dh403).
Find your feet
Innsbruck’s old town is almost uniformly pretty. Squashed, meandering side streets, gorgeous decorative bulges in buildings, handsome porticoes and splashes of imperial grandeur are all combined.
The Hofburg (www.hofburg-innsbruck.at; 0043 512 587 186) – the former Imperial Palace of the Habsburg dynasty that spread its way across Europe via arranged marriages – is not in the slightest bit subtle. The state rooms are slathered with gilding, stucco work and grandiose ceiling paintings.
Step into the neighbouring Hofkirche (www.tiroler-landesmuseen.at; 0043 512 584 302) to see the egotistical emperor Maximilian's absurdly huge, scene-stealing tomb. It's flanked by 28 giant, incredibly detailed bronze statues.
From there, walk to the first stage of the Norde-kettenbahnen (www.nordkette.com), a combination of funicular and cable cars that will take you 2,256 metres up the Hafelekar Mountain. From there, it's just a short walk to the summit. The €33 (Dh136) Innsbruck Card (www.innsbruck.info) covers all entrance fees and transport.
Meet the locals
The old town isn’t quite as tourist-heavy as you might think, and locals do visit the shops and restaurants. But there are more relaxed hangouts to the south. Wiltenerplatz is an excellent example – the collection of happily buzzy cafes and indie boutiques maintains a constant, convivial hum.
Book a table
This is Austria, thus by law you must eat strudel. Kröll (www.strudel-cafe.at; 0043 512 574 347) is wonderful for this, doing sweet flavours such as strawberry and rhubarb or pumpkin and ginger, plus savoury, such as spinach and feta. Filling, chunky slices cost €4.80 (Dh20).
Dengg (www.dengg.co.at; 0043 512 582 347) has a contemporary vibe that characterises Innsbruck and gives enough seasonal twists on local fare to make it rather exciting. Expect to pay €24 (Dh99) for cheeks of veal, balsamic vegetables, polenta and bolete mushrooms.
Shopper’s paradise
The city is full of alpine adventurers, so it’s no surprise to learn that there are plenty of excellent outdoor gear stores. Sweet Dreams on Wiltenerplatz stands out by selling clothing that’s cool as well as functional.
The Swarovski HQ is only 20 minutes away – its Swarovski Crystal World (www.kristallwelten.swarovski.com) is outstandingly gaudy. But the flagship store on Herzog-Friedrich-Strasse also contains some impressive displays.
What to avoid
The beloved local landmark the Goldenes Dachl (Golden Roof) is pretty, with its 2,500-plus gilded copper tiles, but it’s not the must-see it’s made out to be. The museum in the same building doesn’t let visitors out onto the balcony to look at it from above, either.
Don’t miss
It's difficult to miss the striking Bergisel ski jump (www.bergisel.info, 0043 512 589 259) at the city's southern end. Designed by Zaha Hadid, it's worth visiting even if nobody is practising. The steepness at the top is terrifying, although the views are excellent. Pity the jumpers, though – the first thing they see at the bottom of the slope is a graveyard. There's also a small museum about the sport.
Getting there
Etihad (www.etihad.com; 02 599 0000) flies direct from Abu Dhabi to Munich from Dh3,235 return. From Munich Airport, a train (www.bahn.de) to Innsbruck, changing at Munchen Ost, takes two hours and 19 minutes and costs from €39 (Dh161).
