The welcome
I arrive in the evening after a long flight. The hotel dates from the early 1900s, but opened as the Ace in 2007, and is now the HQ of the Ace Hotel brand, which has properties in the United States, Panama and London. The lobby is shabby chic in appearance, with a cultivated ensemble of distressed furniture, an evocative old “hotel” sign and black-and-white TVs on a large shared coffee table. Reception staff are warm; the cranky old lift looks like it needs cleaning.
The neighbourhood
The hotel is situated in a central, historic part of the city bordering on the Pearl District. It’s round the corner from Powell’s bookstore, one of the city’s most popular draws. The small-scale, Western-style streets, in various stages of gentrification, have a marked sense of place.
The scene
Thirty-something hipsters from the US and abroad seem to be the main clientele. Adjoining the lobby is a branch of Stumptown Coffee, a local coffee-shop chain, and guests sip their coffee both in there and in the hotel’s lobby. Also adjoining the lobby is Clyde Common, a smart, trendy restaurant venue that’s not actually part of the hotel, but serves as its main restaurant. The hotel has a basement bar, Pepe Le Moko, which is accessed round the corner. While some of the clientele take themselves too seriously, there’s a thoughtful, alternative air, which is typical of Portland. Other guests seem to be mainly from elsewhere in the US and Europe.
The room
My room, one of 78, is a third-floor “standard front room”, which feels small and rather dark thanks to a window blind that’s needed for privacy. Over the blind is a nice view across the street, while double glazing shuts out most noise. There’s an old style air-conditioning unit, and the room feels a bit airless. There’s a stand-up shower in the corner of the bedroom, a separate toilet and small sink. It all feels a bit poky and hostel-like, though it’s clean. The cheapest rooms have shared bathrooms. In the corridor, I can hear a couple in the room opposite me having what sounds like an argument, but it’s otherwise peaceful.
The service
Staff are helpful, cheerful and take the time to talk to you about the area and the city, your trip and even their own lives. At breakfast, there’s an interminable wait for a delivery of croissants.
The food
The small breakfast room on the second floor offers a $12 (Dh44) buffet of granola, local cheeses, pastries, toast, frittata, pickles and tea and coffee. It’s worthwhile, if you eat everything. Clyde Common, on the ground floor, is connected to the hotel and serves as its de facto restaurant. The mixed salad with halibut ($17 [Dh62]) is delicious. Stumptown Coffee is excellent. The room service menu is extremely limited, overpriced and isn’t available 24 hours.
Loved
The sense of place. Even if only for a night, this is great for tuning into the city’s hipster image. There’s also free bike hire.
Hated
The pretentiousness of some of the local clientele.
The verdict
An interesting and well-located hotel, though it’s less than luxurious.
The bottom line
Double rooms at the Ace Hotel Portland (www.acehotel.com/portland) cost from $166 (Dh610) per night, including taxes, with a shared bathroom.
rbehan@thenational.ae
