Perfume alchemists: inside IFF's new Scent Dubai Creative Centre

Some of world's best perfumers have set up shop in city

Spanning 2,000 square metres, the scent centre fuses innovation with the centuries-old tradition of Middle Eastern perfumery. Photo: IFF

A newly launched creative centre in Dubai hopes to significantly boost the future of fragrance design in the Middle East. Within Dubai Science Park, the Scent Dubai Creative Centre is the latest expansion of International Flavours and Fragrances Inc’s fragrance facility.

More than just a space for perfume creation, it will serve as a hub for innovation, offering educational programmes and inviting visitors to co-create bespoke scents alongside world-class experts and master perfumers.

Spanning 2,000 square metres, the centre fuses advanced innovation with the centuries-old tradition of Middle Eastern perfumery. In a region where scent is deeply tied to identity, memory and rituals, IFF’s investment sends a message about how the future of fragrance lies in this region.

“The Middle East is a key market for our global growth,” says Erik Fyrwald, chief executive of IFF, a French-founded perfume creation studio that has produced some of the world’s most popular scents. “We have been operating in Dubai for 15 years, so expanding our facilities in this very high-growth market where we already have expertise and experience was a natural decision.”

The centre is part of a global network that includes Grasse in France and Shanghai. Photo: IFF

With the Middle Eastern fragrance market projected to reach $7.6 billion by 2034, this expansion is timely. But IFF’s move is about more than numbers; it’s about proximity to artistry and a deep cultural alignment.

This new creative epicentre offers clients direct access to world-class perfumers, semi-industrial production capabilities and a fully immersive perfumery art studio that fosters co-creation. “It is an attractive location to collaborate even more closely with our customers to deliver leading innovations in fine and consumer fragrance even faster,” Fyrwald adds.

The centre features several evaluation booths dedicated to a variety of scent categories – from fine fragrance to home, fabric and beauty care – each outfitted with the latest technologies for olfactory testing and development. A dedicated perfumery academy also supports the next generation of scent designers. The centre also integrates traditional Arab architecture, including a majlis, which will become a space for stories to be told through scent.

Leading perfumer Jean-Christophe Herault sees fragrance in the Middle East as a way of life. Photo: IFF

Few understand this storytelling process better than Jean-Christophe Herault, one of IFF’s leading perfumers. Known for his bold, expressive creations, Herault sees fragrance in the Middle East as a way of life. “The Middle East has a rich and storied tradition of fragrance that dates back centuries,” he says. “Fragrances here are not just about personal scent, they are also used in rituals and celebrations.”

Herault explains how visiting Dubai allows IFF perfumers to engage more deeply with local culture, resulting in scents that are culturally resonant. “Fragrances that resonate more deeply with the local audience and innovate in ways that are culturally relevant” are now within reach. But he admits that creativity does not come without challenges.

“One of the biggest challenges is balancing creativity with sustainability. Ensuring that our creations are innovative and sustainable requires ongoing research into alternative, eco-friendly ingredients.”

Perfumer Pascal Gaurin says creating perfume is like writing a song. Photo: IFF

IFF’s Dubai space also connects seamlessly with its global creative network. The new art studio is a local expression of the brand’s Atelier du Parfumeur in Grasse, as well as its Shanghai studio, bringing together East and West in a single collaborative space. The centres act as creative hubs where perfumery artists from around the world can demonstrate their skills alongside regional talent. Many of the company’s master perfumers were in Dubai for the opening of the centre and are expected to visit the space regularly moving forward.

Veteran IFF master perfumer Pascal Gaurin, who has created perfumes including Giorgio Armani’s My Way and Tom Ford’s Amber Intrigue, likens scent creation to songwriting. “I design fragrance pretty much the same way you build a song,” he shares.

“A story, a memorable riff to get your attention in the first few seconds and a catchy chorus to remember.” For Gaurin, this new space is a blank canvas of sensory potential. “The fragrances I design are not about me… my name is not on the bottle. Brands come to me to access skills and a signature I acquired over 30 years and ask me to translate their story olfactively.”

The IFF includes perfumers who have made leading scents such as Giorgio Armani’s My Way and Tom Ford’s Amber Intrigue. Photo: IFF

Where does he find inspiration? “Daydreaming,” he says, “and new captive molecules developed at IFF”. He also highlights IFF’s natural division based in Grasse: “We have a new collection of incredible citruses … bringing a lot of added value to our existing palette.” Yet for all the innovation, Gaurin reminds us that true fragrance icons are not made overnight. “What makes a fragrance icon? Time is the ultimate judge.”

IFF’s Scent Dubai Creative Centre offers a vision of fragrance as a collaborative art form. “Perfumery is in our DNA,” says Fyrwald.

“We’ve played a significant role in many industry-leading innovations since our company was founded more than 135 years ago. That is what enables IFF to continue creating alongside our customers to bring products to market that meet consumers’ rapidly evolving needs, but also in a way that’s good for people and the planet.”