• A striking floral gown from spring 2024 haute couture by Giambattista Valli. Photo: Giambattista Valli
    A striking floral gown from spring 2024 haute couture by Giambattista Valli. Photo: Giambattista Valli
  • Schiaparelli autumn haute couture 2021 by Daniel Roseberry has a front made of metallic flowers. Photo: Schiaparelli
    Schiaparelli autumn haute couture 2021 by Daniel Roseberry has a front made of metallic flowers. Photo: Schiaparelli
  • Dolce & Gabbana go floral for their spring/summer 2009 collection. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
    Dolce & Gabbana go floral for their spring/summer 2009 collection. Photo: Dolce & Gabbana
  • Robert Wun's spring 2024 haute couture dress has its own mannequin unpicking the threads holding the dress together. Photo: Robert Wun
    Robert Wun's spring 2024 haute couture dress has its own mannequin unpicking the threads holding the dress together. Photo: Robert Wun
  • A dress that resembles a bunch of flowers, from the autumn/winter 2020 collection by Leandro Cano. Photo: Leandro Cano
    A dress that resembles a bunch of flowers, from the autumn/winter 2020 collection by Leandro Cano. Photo: Leandro Cano
  • Short and sweet, a Valentino haute couture autumn 2022 dress made of giant roses. Photo: Valentino
    Short and sweet, a Valentino haute couture autumn 2022 dress made of giant roses. Photo: Valentino
  • A dress from Alexander McQueen's autumn/winter 2006 collection. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    A dress from Alexander McQueen's autumn/winter 2006 collection. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • Moschino delves back in time for autumn/winter 2022 ready-to-wear, with a dress inspired by the French Queen Marie Antoinette. Photo: Moschino
    Moschino delves back in time for autumn/winter 2022 ready-to-wear, with a dress inspired by the French Queen Marie Antoinette. Photo: Moschino
  • The Maison Margiela spring haute couture 2024 collection by John Galliano is about decay, with pieces made from leftovers. Photo: Maison Margiela
    The Maison Margiela spring haute couture 2024 collection by John Galliano is about decay, with pieces made from leftovers. Photo: Maison Margiela
  • The Spring 2024 haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha blends flowers with vintage codes. Photo: Jean Paul Gaultier
    The Spring 2024 haute couture collection for Jean Paul Gaultier by Simone Rocha blends flowers with vintage codes. Photo: Jean Paul Gaultier
  • Alexander McQueen, for spring/summer 2007 ready-to-wear, created this dress seemingly 'stuffed' with flowers. Photo: Alexander McQueen
    Alexander McQueen, for spring/summer 2007 ready-to-wear, created this dress seemingly 'stuffed' with flowers. Photo: Alexander McQueen
  • A look from Valentino's spring 2024 haute couture collection. Photo: Valentino
    A look from Valentino's spring 2024 haute couture collection. Photo: Valentino

What the Met Gala 2024 theme Garden Of Time means


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The great and good of the fashion world will turn out dressed to the nines on Monday night for the Met Gala, one of the industry's biggest events.

Designers have been on overdrive, creating one-of-a-kind pieces for the event, while stylists pull in every favour to secure the “it” look for their celebrity clients.

The annual event is essentially a fund-raiser for the Costume Institute – the fashion and textiles arm of the Metropolitan Museum in New York – and is themed around the corresponding exhibition, for which the gala acts as the opening night.

This year, it's called The Garden of Time.

The exhibition, Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion, is far from being about the Disney fairy tale – it is a more oblique discussion of the fragility of clothes, nature and ultimately life itself.

A look from Moschino autumn/winter 2022, ready-to-wear. Photo: Moschino
A look from Moschino autumn/winter 2022, ready-to-wear. Photo: Moschino

Drawing from the institute's huge archive, curator Andrew Boltan has unearthed pieces that stretch back decades, some even centuries, to map the passage of time.

Pieces on show will include an Elizabethan bodice from the early 1600s – almost too fragile to be handled – and an evening cape by Charles Frederick Worth from 1889, which has tulips woven into the fabric.

This year's show will be split into sections – Land, Sea and Sky – which will journey through delicate, historical items to contemporary pieces.

The burning question is, what will people wear? The most obvious route is for guests to dress for a garden party – decked in florals and trailing foliage.

Maison Margiela spring haute couture 2024, by John Galliano. Photo Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela spring haute couture 2024, by John Galliano. Photo Maison Margiela

The last haute couture shows in Paris revealed many gala-apt pieces. Case in point is Valentino, which referenced florals as a giant ruffle top with a simple tweed pencil skirt; and Simone Rocha, the guest designer at Jean Paul Gaultier haute couture, who created an all-black look covered in tiny flowers at the end of long stems.

Elsewhere, the haute couture offering from Maison Margiela offers a darker take, with a collection that is almost troubling yet utterly beautiful – perfect, then, for this theme. Built around the undesirables of 1950s Paris nightlife, the collection is filled with vintage-looking pieces that are artfully distressed and undone, for a fragile, human feel.

For guests who want to explore the darker side of the exhibition, vintage Alexander McQueen, designed by the man himself, would also be a good place to start. With an exquisite fascination with the macabre, Lee McQueen often referenced death and decay, such as in his autumn/winter 2006 collection that featured headpieces made from dead birds.

For a prettier, more light-hearted take, the spring/summer 2009 collection by Dolce & Gabbana ended with a parade of pastel gowns smothered in fabric flowers, while the recent spring 2024 haute couture by Giambattista Valli also focused on flowers – now realised as great puffs of floral taffeta.

Those able to source vintage Christian Lacroix will be on to a winner, with the brand's rich references to historical figures such as Marie Antoinette – and her violent demise. Vivienne Westwood, too, has reworked the corsetry of old, turning it from a symbol of female restriction into a powerful statement of emancipation.

A haute couture dress inspired by flowers, by John Galliano for Christian Dior, 2010. Photo: Dior
A haute couture dress inspired by flowers, by John Galliano for Christian Dior, 2010. Photo: Dior

Joining fashion editor Anna Wintour as co-chairs this year will be Zendaya, Jennifer Lopez, Bad Bunny and Chris Hemsworth. With Zendaya already well known for her daring dress sense, we can expect a sartorial showdown with that other fearless style maven Rihanna.

With the Diamonds singer also boasting a reputation for bringing the drama, and for making late, spectacular entrances, we are in for a treat, roses or otherwise.

PROFILE OF SWVL

Started: April 2017

Founders: Mostafa Kandil, Ahmed Sabbah and Mahmoud Nouh

Based: Cairo, Egypt

Sector: transport

Size: 450 employees

Investment: approximately $80 million

Investors include: Dubai’s Beco Capital, US’s Endeavor Catalyst, China’s MSA, Egypt’s Sawari Ventures, Sweden’s Vostok New Ventures, Property Finder CEO Michael Lahyani

Name: Peter Dicce

Title: Assistant dean of students and director of athletics

Favourite sport: soccer

Favourite team: Bayern Munich

Favourite player: Franz Beckenbauer

Favourite activity in Abu Dhabi: scuba diving in the Northern Emirates 

 

Squid Game season two

Director: Hwang Dong-hyuk 

Stars:  Lee Jung-jae, Wi Ha-joon and Lee Byung-hun

Rating: 4.5/5

Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

MATCH INFO

Uefa Champions League semi-final, first leg
Bayern Munich v Real Madrid

When: April 25, 10.45pm kick-off (UAE)
Where: Allianz Arena, Munich
Live: BeIN Sports HD
Second leg: May 1, Santiago Bernabeu, Madrid

Expert input

If you had all the money in the world, what’s the one sneaker you would buy or create?

“There are a few shoes that have ‘grail’ status for me. But the one I have always wanted is the Nike x Patta x Parra Air Max 1 - Cherrywood. To get a pair in my size brand new is would cost me between Dh8,000 and Dh 10,000.” Jack Brett

“If I had all the money, I would approach Nike and ask them to do my own Air Force 1, that’s one of my dreams.” Yaseen Benchouche

“There’s nothing out there yet that I’d pay an insane amount for, but I’d love to create my own shoe with Tinker Hatfield and Jordan.” Joshua Cox

“I think I’d buy a defunct footwear brand; I’d like the challenge of reinterpreting a brand’s history and changing options.” Kris Balerite

 “I’d stir up a creative collaboration with designers Martin Margiela of the mixed patchwork sneakers, and Yohji Yamamoto.” Hussain Moloobhoy

“If I had all the money in the world, I’d live somewhere where I’d never have to wear shoes again.” Raj Malhotra

Sarfira

Director: Sudha Kongara Prasad

Starring: Akshay Kumar, Radhika Madan, Paresh Rawal 

Rating: 2/5

Movie: Saheb, Biwi aur Gangster 3

Producer: JAR Films

Director: Tigmanshu Dhulia

Cast: Sanjay Dutt, Jimmy Sheirgill, Mahie Gill, Chitrangda Singh, Kabir Bedi

Rating: 3 star

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Updated: May 06, 2024, 4:37 PM