When the death of the queen was announced a week last Thursday, London Fashion Week suddenly found itself at a crossroads.
Shortly after the announcement, Burberry, the biggest name at the event and the holder of a royal warrant, cancelled its show, followed shortly after by Raf Simons. As a co-designer of Prada, and ex-Dior creative director, his presence had been something of a coup for the London event, and his departure coming so soon after Burberry suddenly threw the entire week into doubt.
On Monday, the body that organises London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Council, declared that the event would be going ahead, albeit with changes. All events booked for the day of the funeral were hurriedly rescheduled, parties were cancelled and guests were politely asked to refrain from publishing street-style images or anything too light-hearted, until after the funeral.
With so much riding on the event — both financially and socially, as a chance to put the woes of Brexit and Covid-19 behind — smaller brands without the resources to cancel instead pressed ahead, marking the occasion in their own way.
On Thursday, during the event's teaser day before the main event started the day after, Daniel Fletcher led a minute's silence and gave a first look of a mourning suit and black armband.
The same day, Harris Reed, the darling of London, closed his show with a model clutching a posy of Lily of the Valley, reportedly the queen’s favourite flower, and a live performance from Adam Lambert singing Queen’s Who Wants to Live Forever.
On Friday, Poster Girl sent out a single Union Jack dress. While guests at Bora Asku also held a minute's silence before the show. The collection was a gentle nod to the monarchy, with it's lightly military theme.
Scroll through images of the first day of London Fashion Week below
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A model in a metallic jacquard jacket, which formed part of the Edward Crutchley spring/summer 2023 runway show at London Fashion Week. AFP -
Edward Crutchley opened its show with a model wearing a metallic dress and sky-high platform shoes. AFP -
The Edward Crutchley show is inspired by the sea, with one model wearing a knitted dress with cut-outs. AFP -
The finale of the Edward Crutchley was a metallic gown that floated around the body. AFP -
For summer 2023, Temperley London offers embroidered, sequin styles. Sarah Maisey / The National -
Designs in mustard, pink, and blue build on Temperley London's 20-year history. Sarah Maisey / The National -
Light and fresh pieces from the Temperley London presentation. Sarah Maisey / The National -
The Bora Aksu show began with a model playing the drum. AFP -
The Bora Aksu show used largely deadstock fabrics to create a show inspired by military uniforms. Reuters. -
Looks were finished with medals. Reuters -
Bora Aksu's show was held on September 16 in London. Reuters
