How designers at London Fashion Week are paying respects to Queen Elizabeth II

While big names such as Burberry pulled out, others are honouring the monarch in their own unique styles

Models backstage ahead of the Bora Aksu runway show, which started with a minute's silence. Reuters

Models held tributes to the Queen Elizabeth II before the Sohuman show. AFP

Adam Lambert, singer for the band Queen, at the Harris Reed show. He sang 'Who Wants to Live Forever'. Getty Images

Bora Aksu's show also had touches of military uniform styles in a nod to the queen's troops. EPA

Looks were finished with military-style caps and medals at Bora Aksu. EPA

A model played a snare drum during the Bora Aksu show. AFP

Daniel W Fletcher's show led a minute's silence, when it opened the pre-event evening on Thursday. It was followed with a first look at a mourning suit, with black armband. Getty

When the death of the queen was announced a week last Thursday, London Fashion Week suddenly found itself at a crossroads.

Shortly after the announcement, Burberry, the biggest name at the event and the holder of a royal warrant, cancelled its show, followed shortly after by Raf Simons. As a co-designer of Prada, and ex-Dior creative director, his presence had been something of a coup for the London event, and his departure coming so soon after Burberry suddenly threw the entire week into doubt.

On Monday, the body that organises London Fashion Week, the British Fashion Council, declared that the event would be going ahead, albeit with changes. All events booked for the day of the funeral were hurriedly rescheduled, parties were cancelled and guests were politely asked to refrain from publishing street-style images or anything too light-hearted, until after the funeral.

With so much riding on the event — both financially and socially, as a chance to put the woes of Brexit and Covid-19 behind — smaller brands without the resources to cancel instead pressed ahead, marking the occasion in their own way.

Adam Lambert sings Queen's 'Who Wants to Live Forever' at the Harris Reed show during London Fashion Week. Getty Images

On Thursday, during the event's teaser day before the main event started the day after, Daniel Fletcher led a minute's silence and gave a first look of a mourning suit and black armband.

The same day, Harris Reed, the darling of London, closed his show with a model clutching a posy of Lily of the Valley, reportedly the queen’s favourite flower, and a live performance from Adam Lambert singing Queen’s Who Wants to Live Forever.

On Friday, Poster Girl sent out a single Union Jack dress. While guests at Bora Asku also held a minute's silence before the show. The collection was a gentle nod to the monarchy, with it's lightly military theme.

Scroll through images of the first day of London Fashion Week below

A model in a metallic jacquard jacket, which formed part of the Edward Crutchley spring/summer 2023 runway show at London Fashion Week. AFP

Edward Crutchley opened its show with a model wearing a metallic dress and sky-high platform shoes. AFP

The Edward Crutchley show is inspired by the sea, with one model wearing a knitted dress with cut-outs. AFP

The finale of the Edward Crutchley was a metallic gown that floated around the body. AFP

For summer 2023, Temperley London offers embroidered, sequin styles. Sarah Maisey / The National

Designs in mustard, pink, and blue build on Temperley London's 20-year history. Sarah Maisey / The National

Light and fresh pieces from the Temperley London presentation. Sarah Maisey / The National

The Bora Aksu show began with a model playing the drum. AFP

The Bora Aksu show used largely deadstock fabrics to create a show inspired by military uniforms. Reuters.

Looks were finished with medals. Reuters

Bora Aksu's show was held on September 16 in London. Reuters