• A model wears a patterned jacket, with military-style frogging and a gaucho hat as part of Dior Cruise 2023. AP
    A model wears a patterned jacket, with military-style frogging and a gaucho hat as part of Dior Cruise 2023. AP
  • A blood-red gown at the show in Seville. Reuters
    A blood-red gown at the show in Seville. Reuters
  • Models walk in the finale of the Dior Cruise 2023 show. AP
    Models walk in the finale of the Dior Cruise 2023 show. AP
  • A sheer black and gold dress, as part of the Dior Cruise 2023 show in Seville. Getty Images
    A sheer black and gold dress, as part of the Dior Cruise 2023 show in Seville. Getty Images
  • A model wears a full skirt with a sheer lace top during the Spanish-inspired Dior Cruise 2023 show. Getty Images
    A model wears a full skirt with a sheer lace top during the Spanish-inspired Dior Cruise 2023 show. Getty Images
  • Dramatic evening looks at the Dior Cruise 2023 collection, by Maria Grazia Chiuri. EPA
    Dramatic evening looks at the Dior Cruise 2023 collection, by Maria Grazia Chiuri. EPA
  • A sheer lace top and shorts at the Dior Cruise 2023 collection. EPA
    A sheer lace top and shorts at the Dior Cruise 2023 collection. EPA
  • Many of the looks at the Dior Cruise 2023 collection took inspiration from flamenco. Getty Images
    Many of the looks at the Dior Cruise 2023 collection took inspiration from flamenco. Getty Images
  • Jewel-toned gowns at Dior Cruise 2023. Getty Images
    Jewel-toned gowns at Dior Cruise 2023. Getty Images
  • A model wears a dress decorated with "fuego", the Spanish word for fire, written on the waistband. Getty Images
    A model wears a dress decorated with "fuego", the Spanish word for fire, written on the waistband. Getty Images
  • For the new collection, Dior offered this taffeta gown in peony. Getty Images
    For the new collection, Dior offered this taffeta gown in peony. Getty Images
  • The classic Dior Bar jacket reworked for the Cruise 2023 collection. EPA
    The classic Dior Bar jacket reworked for the Cruise 2023 collection. EPA
  • A look in black and white from the Dior Cruise 2023 collection. EPA
    A look in black and white from the Dior Cruise 2023 collection. EPA

Dior delivers a flamenco-inspired masterclass for Cruise 2023 show in Seville


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Dior unveiled its Cruise 2023 collection with a visual spectacle inspired by flamenco in Seville, Spain, on Thursday night.

Influenced by famous Spanish flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya, the entire show unfolded as a homage to her, the dance form and the culture of the city in which it was staged.

Maria Grazia Chiuri, creative director of Dior, wrote on Instagram Amaya could "combine strength and fragility" through the gesture of dance.

"She is capable of depicting the soul of Spain and interpreting a conscious feminine idea that is feminism,” she wrote.

A model walks the runway during the Dior 'Crucero Collection' fashion show on June 16, 2022, in Seville, Spain. Getty Images
A model walks the runway during the Dior 'Crucero Collection' fashion show on June 16, 2022, in Seville, Spain. Getty Images

Staged in the Plaza de Espana, a large public space fronted by a magnificent curved building in the heart of the Andulcian city, Grazia Chiuri delivered a 110-look collection themed around the codes of southern Spain and its rich, varied and, at times, dark history.

Flanked by two flamenco dancers and a cajon box drum, the first models arrived in simple tops and trousers in black and white, paired with ponchos, waistcoats and jackets featuring delicate embroidery.

Shirts gave way to lacework, plain skirts became full and covered in intricate patterning as masculine tailoring softened into a more feminine silhouette.

Looks featured nods to equestrianism, with models clutching riding crops and wearing flat-brimmed gaucho hats, and what started as an all-black affair slowly gave way to embroidery, with palettes becoming richer and more golden, until the flamboyant traje de luces-inspired suits made an appearance on the runway.

Models showcase designs featuring heavy gold embroidery as part of Dior Cruise 2023. EPA
Models showcase designs featuring heavy gold embroidery as part of Dior Cruise 2023. EPA

The monochrome gave way to red, first as military-style jackets and slashed sleeve capes, before shifting to patterned skirting, ruched off-the-shoulder dresses and a beautiful laser-cut leather dress in deep oxblood. In another nod to horse riding, dark denim arrived as cowboy-esque jackets, chaps covered with the Dior monogram, and riding coats with wide Driza-Bone collars.

As colours shifted through black and white, cream to gold and finally into rich taffeta gowns of peony, purple and red, Grazia Chiuri acknowledged one of the darkest periods of Seville history.

One beautiful, flame-licked gown arrived with the word "fuego," or fire, on its waistband, a stark reminder of the terrible auto-da-fes that once burned within the city walls.

This rich and complicated history is the ideal incubator for Grazia Chiuri, who has sifted through centuries to pull off something extraordinary. In referencing Amaya, Grazia Chiuri mixed high fashion with flamenco, a dance once seen as deviant within Spain for it links to the Gypsy community.

Both an academic and designer, Grazia Chiuri once again drew parallels between women and artforms who have been sidelined and repressed, and with every new collection, she continues to redraw the lines of history.

Timeline

2012-2015

The company offers payments/bribes to win key contracts in the Middle East

May 2017

The UK SFO officially opens investigation into Petrofac’s use of agents, corruption, and potential bribery to secure contracts

September 2021

Petrofac pleads guilty to seven counts of failing to prevent bribery under the UK Bribery Act

October 2021

Court fines Petrofac £77 million for bribery. Former executive receives a two-year suspended sentence 

December 2024

Petrofac enters into comprehensive restructuring to strengthen the financial position of the group

May 2025

The High Court of England and Wales approves the company’s restructuring plan

July 2025

The Court of Appeal issues a judgment challenging parts of the restructuring plan

August 2025

Petrofac issues a business update to execute the restructuring and confirms it will appeal the Court of Appeal decision

October 2025

Petrofac loses a major TenneT offshore wind contract worth €13 billion. Holding company files for administration in the UK. Petrofac delisted from the London Stock Exchange

November 2025

180 Petrofac employees laid off in the UAE

Ten tax points to be aware of in 2026

1. Domestic VAT refund amendments: request your refund within five years

If a business does not apply for the refund on time, they lose their credit.

2. E-invoicing in the UAE

Businesses should continue preparing for the implementation of e-invoicing in the UAE, with 2026 a preparation and transition period ahead of phased mandatory adoption. 

3. More tax audits

Tax authorities are increasingly using data already available across multiple filings to identify audit risks. 

4. More beneficial VAT and excise tax penalty regime

Tax disputes are expected to become more frequent and more structured, with clearer administrative objection and appeal processes. The UAE has adopted a new penalty regime for VAT and excise disputes, which now mirrors the penalty regime for corporate tax.

5. Greater emphasis on statutory audit

There is a greater need for the accuracy of financial statements. The International Financial Reporting Standards standards need to be strictly adhered to and, as a result, the quality of the audits will need to increase.

6. Further transfer pricing enforcement

Transfer pricing enforcement, which refers to the practice of establishing prices for internal transactions between related entities, is expected to broaden in scope. The UAE will shortly open the possibility to negotiate advance pricing agreements, or essentially rulings for transfer pricing purposes. 

7. Limited time periods for audits

Recent amendments also introduce a default five-year limitation period for tax audits and assessments, subject to specific statutory exceptions. While the standard audit and assessment period is five years, this may be extended to up to 15 years in cases involving fraud or tax evasion. 

8. Pillar 2 implementation 

Many multinational groups will begin to feel the practical effect of the Domestic Minimum Top-Up Tax (DMTT), the UAE's implementation of the OECD’s global minimum tax under Pillar 2. While the rules apply for financial years starting on or after January 1, 2025, it is 2026 that marks the transition to an operational phase.

9. Reduced compliance obligations for imported goods and services

Businesses that apply the reverse-charge mechanism for VAT purposes in the UAE may benefit from reduced compliance obligations. 

10. Substance and CbC reporting focus

Tax authorities are expected to continue strengthening the enforcement of economic substance and Country-by-Country (CbC) reporting frameworks. In the UAE, these regimes are increasingly being used as risk-assessment tools, providing tax authorities with a comprehensive view of multinational groups’ global footprints and enabling them to assess whether profits are aligned with real economic activity. 

Contributed by Thomas Vanhee and Hend Rashwan, Aurifer

How to wear a kandura

Dos

  • Wear the right fabric for the right season and occasion 
  • Always ask for the dress code if you don’t know
  • Wear a white kandura, white ghutra / shemagh (headwear) and black shoes for work 
  • Wear 100 per cent cotton under the kandura as most fabrics are polyester

Don’ts 

  • Wear hamdania for work, always wear a ghutra and agal 
  • Buy a kandura only based on how it feels; ask questions about the fabric and understand what you are buying
What are the main cyber security threats?

Cyber crime - This includes fraud, impersonation, scams and deepfake technology, tactics that are increasingly targeting infrastructure and exploiting human vulnerabilities.
Cyber terrorism - Social media platforms are used to spread radical ideologies, misinformation and disinformation, often with the aim of disrupting critical infrastructure such as power grids.
Cyber warfare - Shaped by geopolitical tension, hostile actors seek to infiltrate and compromise national infrastructure, using one country’s systems as a springboard to launch attacks on others.

Tamkeen's offering
  • Option 1: 70% in year 1, 50% in year 2, 30% in year 3
  • Option 2: 50% across three years
  • Option 3: 30% across five years 
The National Archives, Abu Dhabi

Founded over 50 years ago, the National Archives collects valuable historical material relating to the UAE, and is the oldest and richest archive relating to the Arabian Gulf.

Much of the material can be viewed on line at the Arabian Gulf Digital Archive - https://www.agda.ae/en

Updated: June 21, 2022, 8:37 AM