Low-key is not low maintenance

Low-keyism? If you were playing Scrabble, you'd never get away with it. It does describe the precise mood of fashion quite nicely, though. This season - even though it has not kicked off yet - is about dressing to the seven and three-quarters, as opposed to dressing to the nines. It's about understated glamour, which is not to be confused with casual, grunge or deshabille.

At last week's Golden Globes, low-keyism was the new red carpet trend adopted by all those who really mattered. In keeping with the spirit of our times, there were no goody bags and few parties. Apart from Jennifer Lopez, who took the name of the awards rather too literally, most celebrities got the fashion vibe spot on. Angelina Jolie's twinkling little Versace number, despite being slashed to the thigh, demonstrated it perfectly. So did Cameron Diaz, who wore her hair like she'd just rocked up from the beach and a vintage Chanel frock the colour of Pepto-Bismol.

Low-keyism is a million miles removed from that scary trend "bodycon". Nor is it dull just because of its neutral palette, or minimalist because of its simple designs. Worn correctly, it's no less pulse-racing than any other trend, and it can be so complicated as to require an instruction manual. Recently, I was sent a giant cotton jersey square with two sleeves. At first, I thought it was a poncho someone had forgotten to put a hole in for the head. I later worked out that you wrap it around your torso once before putting your arms through.

In a word, I'd call it funky. Seeing me in this with my new all-in-one (which has flappy bits on the trouser legs), my husband asked if I was going to a clown convention. This trend is definitely a woman thing. Men won't get it. End of story. Perhaps the purest - and certainly most expensive - form of low-keyism is championed by Albert Elbaz at Lanvin. His raw seams, unlined fabrics, vibrant colours and craft-like embellishments reflect an almost organic simplicity - sort of the fashion equivalent of Zaha Hadid's architecture.

Low key, er, key pieces include the loosely tailored then tapered all-in-one jumpsuit, the skinny blazer lined with all-important eye-popping colour (and which must be worn with sleeves rolled up just so), and the gravity defying one-shouldered or strapless "paper bag" shift dress - all of which require years of training at design school. Loungewear and luxury sportswear fit the new mood, too, like all those temptingly soft cardigans and loose, slouchy tops by the hot new label, LnA, founded by the supercool Hollywood residents Lauren Alexander and April Leight.

Or those slightly boyish, ever so French designer pieces Isabel Marant and Vanessa Bruno do well, which explains why they are both enjoying a fashionista moment. It's also no surprise that Mike & Chris (the husband and wife team Mike Gonzalez and Christine Park-Gonzalez) are kitting out so many lounge lizard-type celebutantes with super soft fleece "designer" hoodies. Or why Alexander Wang's laid back skinny trousers and Derek Lam and Thakoon's strappy "off duty" heiress grungy party wear are best-sellers.

If you haven't already, it's time to start working those pale yet interesting nude shades. If, like me, you feel your pasty skin tone would love to but just can't take it, do what Richard Nicoll did on his recent catwalk: team powdery shades with hot brights. His play on sheer and opaque fabrics and long and short hemlines (like the duster coat over the mini dress) are destined to be a summer look.

I'm also intrigued by those shades Miuccia Prada is currently exploring: chartreuse, marron glacé, lemon and silver - the sort of pastels that work so well in saris and shalwar kameezes. Low-keyism doesn't only apply to clothes, by the way. On the catwalks, the fashion superpowers Prada, YSL, Dior, Chanel and Balmain created the "face" to go with it: strong brows, perky black kohl ending in Amy Winehouse-type "cats eye" flicks, bold but pale lips, polished skin and hair pulled into a severe 1950s chignon.

Ha! Don't be fooled into thinking low key is easy to wear. High maintenance, more like.