The location
Described as this record-breaking hotel’s “signature” brunch, the new Wanderlust package/concept is spread across a number of neighbouring fifth floor venues. Spilling off from Peruvian restaurant Garden onto the “Party Garden” (formally standalone terrace Park) and nightclub Square, creating a total of seven themed zones. The effect is jarring, but the sprawling mania is toted as an asset – kooky rustic wooden signs point the way, and guests can even “wander” through the kitchen to uncover more cooking stations.
The atmosphere
With cheesy tunes playing from early doors – MJ was blaring as we entered around 1.30pm – this one is an unashamed party brunch, with a playlist that wouldn’t be out of place at a pre-Millennial’s wedding. The noisy terrace features numerous heavily branded drinks stations, each serving a single recipe.
The food
As the name makes clear, Wanderlust aims to take in a broad sweep of culinary and geographic territory, eschewing recent trends for a la carte brunches in favour of a big, decadent buffet set-up, promising a total of 360 dishes. I didn’t count, but was certainly left overwhelmed by the meandering maze which included, in no particular order: a live BBQ, “seafood sanctuary”, large cheese and mezze selection, fresh pasta stations, a curry stop serving dishes in mixed drink glasses and a colourful “candy shop” corridor of sweet treats. As is too often the case with buffets, nothing seemed to taste quite as good as it looked, but we certainly didn’t go hungry.
Who’s it best for?
Big mixed groups (and fussy eaters) may relish this unfashionable return to brunching the bombastic way.
Bottom line
A party brunch through and through, with a food trail so vast that trays carry maps to help lost diners find their way back to the table. Really.
• Fridays 1pm-4pm, from Dh395. Garden, JW Marriott Marquis, Business Bay, Dubai. www.jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com.
The National was a guest of the venue
