At Al Grissino Restaurant & Lounge in DIFC, guests are getting a taste of the fresh seafood dishes this Milanese eatery is famous for. The location is worth talking about, too – the 16th-floor blue neon tunnel that connects the Emirates Financial Towers offers unparalleled views of the Dubai skyline. And it might also be the only restaurant in the country with two executive chefs.
As seen in Hell’s Kitchen and other reality-TV cooking programmes, there is always one clear leader in the kitchen: the respected and sometimes feared executive chef. But in an unlikely twist, Al Grissino has two. Diego Simonetta and Stefano Lanfredi Sofia, who both moved here from Milan to head its first branch outside Italy, have worked together for years. So, while you might secretly be hoping to witness a scene straight out of one of Gordon Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares, it’s unlikely you will hear screaming matches.
Both share a love for Al Grissino, an upscale restaurant that started in Milan in 1952.
“Al Grissino is considered among the best in Milan, between atmosphere and upscale cuisine. It’s traditional cuisine served in a refined style,” says Simonetta.
Sofia adds: “At Al Grissino in Milan, our pride is our authentic seafood dishes. We present our customers with seafood that is true to Italian cooking tradition. Coming to Dubai is a great opportunity for us to make our kitchen and our tradition known outside of Milan.”
The chefs bring contrasting personalities and sensibilities to the table.
When talking about his favourite ingredients to work with, Sofia has a specific list that includes “thyme, Taggiasca olives, langoustine, homemade pasta and extra virgin olive oil”.
Simonetta’s list is different: Parmesan cheese, butter, fish, herbs and love. “I love art and food,” he says. “I consider cooking an art form.”
And while Simonetta claims to be calm and lucid, Sofia is “a war machine”, says Simonetta. “Nothing scares him.” “[Simonetta] definitely has patience,” agrees Sofia. “I am not very patient. And he has experience gained over many years in the kitchen, a very balanced taste.”
While both chefs underplay the trials having two executive chefs in one kitchen must bring, they do allude to it. Simonetta says, “As in marriage, there can be disagreements on some points, but this doesn’t affect our work.” Sofia agrees. Adding a positive spin, he says: “If there are arguments, it helps us grow and work together better.” There are also benefits. For example, Simonetta says having two capable, executive chefs can offset the workload and chefs’ notoriously gruelling hours. “It helps us,” he says. “We talk about how to make improvements and how to reach targets.”
“We have found the right balance to divide the tasks,” says Sofia. “Here, guests will get a pure Italian seafood experience.”
sjohnson@thenational.ae
