Toko at Vida Downtown Hotel in Dubai is full of Eastern promise

Toko, the latest Japanese joint in town, has great ambience and service, but even though it definitely lightens the pockets you still might feel slightly hungry when you leave.

Toko Restaurant & Bar in Dubai keeps the ambience of its Australian parent. Courtesy Toko Restaurant & Bar / March 2014

Despite living in Dubai and taking on restaurant review opportunities, I have not visited as many fine-dining restaurants as I would have liked. Which is why when I ate at Toko, the Sydney-based Japanese izakaya lounge and restaurant, now open at Vida Downtown Hotel, I was a tad taken aback at just how tiny the portions are, considering the price tag attached to each mouthwateringly described dish. We're talking Dh95 for the scampi nigri and foie gras sushi, which comes with two put-on-your-glasses-to-see-them pieces and Dh190 for black cod that melted in the mouth - and melted away from the mockingly large platter it was served on - quicker than you can say "fish".
In the course of our post-meal conversation, my still-hungry dining partner and I discussed why Toko still figures high on the list of fancy restaurants we see in our future.
In keeping with the original restaurant in Sydney, which has often been described as the place to be seen, the first international branch of Toko in Dubai is all low ceilings, warm wood and private nooks. The garden has an artsy ­umbrella-filled "roof", lush, long-limbed plants and multiple levels. There's no fear of being overdressed even in your best threads as was evident from the model-esque figures passing our way, much to my partner's delight.
We started with soft-shell crab with wasabi mayo (Dh95) and the aforementioned sushi, both bursting with crunch and flavour. For mains, my partner went with the server's recommendation of the grilled-to-perfection saikyo miso marinated black cod, while I, despite my tender tastes, took a chance on the duck breast with sansho pepper and pickled nashi pear (Dh135). Although I asked for it to be extremely well done, the meat was too tough for my taste and I gratefully accepted the recommended replacement: marinated lamb cutlets with barley miso and aubergine cubes (Dh165). The pickled aubergine may be the strangest thing I've put in my mouth - at once sour, squishy and a touch raw - but the two lamb chops did the melt-in-my-mouth trick where the duck had failed.
For dessert we tried the Bento Box (Dh190), which requires a special mention as being the finest, most well-presented selection of pastries, pies and sorbets I've tasted or seen. Chocoholics, such as my partner, may not look beyond the gooey goodness of the chocolate and hazelnut fondant pastry. That means the rhubarb-and-macadamia crumble with apple sorbet, and the coconut panna cotta with strawberry and chocolate foam in this made-for-two assortment is left for one, which works quite well, thank you.  
The hostesses and servers, most of whom are from Australia, felt like old friends by the end of our meal. They were comfortingly accommodating about replacing a dish that didn't quite suit and asked just the right number of questions about our experience - this team has its menu knowledge and small-talk skills honed to perfection.
Overall, despite leaving you a little less than completely satisfied, Toko's food and desserts are superlative in terms of taste, freshness and variety - and warrant a visit. Or two.   
. A meal for two at Toko at Vida Downtown Hotel in Dubai costs Dh750, not including drinks. For reservations, call 04 442 8383. Reviewed meals are paid for by The National and conducted incognito. See www.toko-dubai.com for more information
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