The location
The pan-Asian eatery is located just off the lobby of the Crowne Plaza hotel on Abu Dhabi’s Hamdan Street. Cho Gao has undergone a number of welcome changes over the past few months. Chief among them is its new sushi bar which can seat up to 12 guests.
The atmosphere
Cho Gao incorporates a lounge, bar and restaurant and is non-smoking. In terms of decor: think lots of dark wood and soft lights. I’ve been to Cho Gao many times over the past few years and it’s always hopping. But the Friday brunch we attend is more relaxed. Three or four tables are full when we arrive at midday. By 2pm, the venue is about half full. Slightly incongruous is the music – loud tunes by the likes of Rihanna blare out of the sound system. It jars with the low-key vibes.
The food
Cho Gao’s cuisine takes inspiration from Thailand, Vietnam and Indonesia and their brunch is mainly table service. This was only introduced recently to cultivate a sharing approach and to ensure the food stays fresh. Soup and dessert is still self-service. We start with a maki roll platter including nigiri; a selection of dim sum and two large salad bowls. The salmon and tuna nigiri is good but why do restaurants slather mayo over maki rolls? Less is more please. My dining partner loves the som tam Thai salad, with papaya, long beans, tomato and peanut with tamarind dressing. The dim sum includes steamed chicken, vegetable and prawn with ginger soya and chilli.
These dishes are made for sharing and are unlimited. But even one serving of the starter menu is too much for us to finish. Possibly our eyes are on the mains. These include marinated fish on a banana leaf with spicy and tamarind sauce; Chinese style beef stew with star anise; and red beef curry with pumpkin, aubergine and sweet basil. We opt for small portions of stir fried seafood with chilli paste and sweet basil, vegetable noodle mee gorang and pineapple fried rice with chicken. By this stage, my appetite has gone missing. But my dining partner still has room for carrot cake and some fruit.
Who is it for?
If you are looking for a raucous party – look elsewhere. This is a relaxed and chilled brunch for friends and couples.
The verdict
A pleasant way to ease yourself into the weekend. The service is also excellent at Cho Gao: where does the fish come from; how was a dish prepared; what was the chef’s thinking here? All are answered professionally, making a welcome change from the poor service in many UAE eateries. Vegetarians are also well catered for and those who are gluten intolerant are advised to contact the venue before the brunch to organise acceptable dishes. There is also a separate a la carte gluten free menu.
• Fridays 12pm to 4pm, from Dh200 net. Children under the age of six eat for free, while those from 6 to 12 are charged half the price. Cho Gao Asian restaurant, Crowne Plaza Hotel, Abu Dhabi. For reservations call 02 616 6149
The National was a guest of the restaurant.
jdennehy@thenational.ae
