Mercadito Night Brunch at: Amerigos Mexican Bar & Restaurant, Park Inn by Radisson Abu Dhabi, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi

Sharing starters: salsa and chips, guacamole, mushroom quesadilla, chicken taquitos dorados, mini pockets of shredded beef salpicon tostada and lime-drenched ceviche de atum (tuna). Courtesy Park Inn by Radisson Abu Dhabi

The location

At the rear of the Park Inn, the fairly standard-bar inside of Amerigos isn’t perhaps the most exciting place to spend your Thursday evening, but the terrace, looking across the waters of Yas Island, is much pleasanter. The Mexican bar and restaurant has been in danger of getting left behind in compatriot cuisine terms by the likes of new capital-city spot Loca in recent months, however, which may or may not be why it’s upping its game by launching a night brunch.

The atmosphere

Surprisingly family-leaning for a weekend evening. The vibe was gently underscored by a two-piece band probably best described as mariachi-flavoured pop who managed to blend into Amerigos’ ambience without disrupting anybody’s conversations or totally fading away into inconsequential background music.

The food

We skipped chef’s soup of the day and went straight to the sharing starters: salsa and chips, onion-heavy guacamole, neat little triangles of mushroom quesadilla, slightly oily chicken taquitos dorados, mini pockets of shredded beef salpicon tostada and, best of all, a large, round jar of lime-drenched ceviche de atum (tuna). There was also a small pineapple and cucumber salad with Tajín chilli powder.

That would probably be plenty for those wanting a light dinner, but it was followed almost twice as much food with a selection of grills to share, presented atop a green bucket containing a lit gas heater to keep everything warm. The pick were the sweet, tender, lollipop-esque adobo Australian lamb chops, while the marinated US flank steak and free-range chicken breast continued a backyard-barbecue undertone. Sides included charred corn on the cob, which thankfully didn’t resemble the charcoal concoction that its name suggested, plus charro beans, house salad and warmers full of corn tortillas. The tastiest dessert, meanwhile, proved to be the dulce de leche creme caramel.

Who’s it best for?

Evening brunchers on a budget looking to get the weekend underway in understated fashion.

The verdict

Value for money is high at this worthwhile addition to the capital’s night-brunch scene.

The National was a guest of the restaurant.

• Thursdays 7pm to 11pm, from Dh144, Amerigos Mexican Bar & Restaurant, Park Inn by Radisson Abu Dhabi, Yas Island, Abu Dhabi. Reservations 02 656 2000